Guide to replace CV Axle on a 2000 Maxima?
03-05-2014, 03:25 PM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 15
Guide to replace CV Axle on a 2000 Maxima?
I have a 2000 Maxima GLE A/T and noticed grease build up in the inside of both front wheels which led me to believe the CV boots were cracked and sure enough, they both were. My friend said to replace both CV boots with new CV Axles since it costs a little more and makes installation easier. Any how-to would greatly be appreciated !
03-06-2014, 03:56 AM
#2
To start with, you will need a big socket to remove the axle nut - a 32mm 6 point deep-well socket. You can probably rent one from your auto parts store, I did.
Then you have to remove the axle nut. If you don't have an impact wrench, I hope you have a pair because it is torqued down to 200+ pounds feet. Do not jack up the car, leave it on the ground with the brakes on. Use a breaker bar with an extension and stand/jump on it to break the nut loose. Don't take the nut off, just break it loose. Also, loosen the lug nuts. Once you have both sides loose, then you can jack up the car.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Tools needed:
car jack
pair of jack stands
32 mm socket
21 mm socket
19 mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket
ratchet wrenches
extensions - 12, 6 and 3 inch
universal joint
breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench)
assorted pry bars
hammer(s)
drifts
baling wire or equivalent
good vocabulary of swear words
Just in case tools:
19 mm open end wrench
12 mm box wrench
12 mm open end wrench
2 medium size cotter pins
Removal of old axle:
If you don't have an impact wrench then while the car is on the ground, loosen the axle nut (32 mm socket) and the wheel lug nuts (21 mm socket). Jack the car up as far as you can (you will be working under the car) and support it on the jack stands. Remove the wheels.
If you have a manual transmission, drain the transmission oil.
If you have an automatic transmission, you don't have to drain it. If you jack up both sides of the car and have it level, just a few drops will come out. If you only jack up one side, a little bit of oil will dribble out when you remove the oil seal.
Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut and free the brake line from the bracket.
Remove the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle. Use a 19 mm socket on the nut and a 17 mm socket on the bolt.
Remove the axle nut (32 mm). Have the baling wire (or equivalent) close by and handy. Remove the steering knuckle, wheel hub, brake caliper and brake rotor from the axle as one assembly. This is a little tricky because this is one heavy mother. A hard tap on the axle shaft will free it from the hub, but because the tie rod is still attached to the steering knuckle, you have to pivot the wheel hub assembly towards the rear of the car to remove it. As you pull, the axle will probably extend and follow, so you may need to keep pushing on the axle shaft while you are pulling the wheel hub assembly off. Once you have the wheel hub assembly free, you must support it so that it does not rip the brake line apart. Use the baling wire (or equivalent) to hold it up. I used coat hangers and ran the wire through a bolt hole in the steering knuckle that is used for the strut bolt and hung it from one of the spring coils.
If for some reason you can't get the axle out of the wheel hub, you will have to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the ball joint. Temporarily re-connect the steering knuckle to the strut to hold it while you do the following:
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
Right Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and locate the axle center support. There are 3 bolts that need to be removed. Using a 12 mm socket on a 12 inch long extension connected to a u-joint on a 6 inch extension, remove the bolts. The axle will now slide out if it is a Nissan axle. Other brands may hang up in the center support. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
Left Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and free the axle. Using a pry bar, insert it between the differential housing and the axle. Use a sharp jerking motion instead of a steadily increasing pressure and the axle should pop right out. You can now slide the old axle out. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
The removal part is now complete. Give yourself a pat on the back and go have a beer.
OK, you bum - get back to work.
If you are replacing the oil seals in the differential, be prepared for a big pain in the butt. Oil seals are a 30 second install when you have open space around where you are working. Unfortunately, you don't have the open space here, so anticipate being frustrated. Having long drifts is a definite plus. Note that the left and right oil seals are not the same. They look very similar and the outside diameter is the same, which would let you install the seal on either side. The inner opening that the axle shaft goes through is the difference. The left axle (driver's side) is larger. Autozone part numbers - 710118 (left) and 710124 (right). These numbers work at most parts stores.
Installation of the axle is a reversal of the removal.
If you are replacing the left axle (driver's side), one important thing you need to do is check the new axle and see if there is a snap ring on the splined end that goes into the differential. It's about a quarter inch from the very end. If not, then remove the snap ring from the old axle.
If you are replacing the right axle (passenger side), getting the center support bearing into the support can also be difficult. If the new center bearing won't slide in easily, I would recommend that you line up the boltholes in the flange before you start tapping it in with a hammer. Tap on the flange itself, NOT the axle.
Then you have to remove the axle nut. If you don't have an impact wrench, I hope you have a pair because it is torqued down to 200+ pounds feet. Do not jack up the car, leave it on the ground with the brakes on. Use a breaker bar with an extension and stand/jump on it to break the nut loose. Don't take the nut off, just break it loose. Also, loosen the lug nuts. Once you have both sides loose, then you can jack up the car.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Tools needed:
car jack
pair of jack stands
32 mm socket
21 mm socket
19 mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket
ratchet wrenches
extensions - 12, 6 and 3 inch
universal joint
breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench)
assorted pry bars
hammer(s)
drifts
baling wire or equivalent
good vocabulary of swear words
Just in case tools:
19 mm open end wrench
12 mm box wrench
12 mm open end wrench
2 medium size cotter pins
Removal of old axle:
If you don't have an impact wrench then while the car is on the ground, loosen the axle nut (32 mm socket) and the wheel lug nuts (21 mm socket). Jack the car up as far as you can (you will be working under the car) and support it on the jack stands. Remove the wheels.
If you have a manual transmission, drain the transmission oil.
If you have an automatic transmission, you don't have to drain it. If you jack up both sides of the car and have it level, just a few drops will come out. If you only jack up one side, a little bit of oil will dribble out when you remove the oil seal.
Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut and free the brake line from the bracket.
Remove the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle. Use a 19 mm socket on the nut and a 17 mm socket on the bolt.
Remove the axle nut (32 mm). Have the baling wire (or equivalent) close by and handy. Remove the steering knuckle, wheel hub, brake caliper and brake rotor from the axle as one assembly. This is a little tricky because this is one heavy mother. A hard tap on the axle shaft will free it from the hub, but because the tie rod is still attached to the steering knuckle, you have to pivot the wheel hub assembly towards the rear of the car to remove it. As you pull, the axle will probably extend and follow, so you may need to keep pushing on the axle shaft while you are pulling the wheel hub assembly off. Once you have the wheel hub assembly free, you must support it so that it does not rip the brake line apart. Use the baling wire (or equivalent) to hold it up. I used coat hangers and ran the wire through a bolt hole in the steering knuckle that is used for the strut bolt and hung it from one of the spring coils.
If for some reason you can't get the axle out of the wheel hub, you will have to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the ball joint. Temporarily re-connect the steering knuckle to the strut to hold it while you do the following:
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
Right Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and locate the axle center support. There are 3 bolts that need to be removed. Using a 12 mm socket on a 12 inch long extension connected to a u-joint on a 6 inch extension, remove the bolts. The axle will now slide out if it is a Nissan axle. Other brands may hang up in the center support. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
Left Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and free the axle. Using a pry bar, insert it between the differential housing and the axle. Use a sharp jerking motion instead of a steadily increasing pressure and the axle should pop right out. You can now slide the old axle out. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
The removal part is now complete. Give yourself a pat on the back and go have a beer.
OK, you bum - get back to work.
If you are replacing the oil seals in the differential, be prepared for a big pain in the butt. Oil seals are a 30 second install when you have open space around where you are working. Unfortunately, you don't have the open space here, so anticipate being frustrated. Having long drifts is a definite plus. Note that the left and right oil seals are not the same. They look very similar and the outside diameter is the same, which would let you install the seal on either side. The inner opening that the axle shaft goes through is the difference. The left axle (driver's side) is larger. Autozone part numbers - 710118 (left) and 710124 (right). These numbers work at most parts stores.
Installation of the axle is a reversal of the removal.
If you are replacing the left axle (driver's side), one important thing you need to do is check the new axle and see if there is a snap ring on the splined end that goes into the differential. It's about a quarter inch from the very end. If not, then remove the snap ring from the old axle.
If you are replacing the right axle (passenger side), getting the center support bearing into the support can also be difficult. If the new center bearing won't slide in easily, I would recommend that you line up the boltholes in the flange before you start tapping it in with a hammer. Tap on the flange itself, NOT the axle.
Last edited by DennisMik; 03-06-2014 at 09:03 PM. Reason: fix typos
03-06-2014, 06:32 AM
#3
Very nice Dennis! Wow. Should sticky that.
Also: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...nt+maxima&sm=3
Also: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...nt+maxima&sm=3
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kingw323
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
20
10-21-2015 08:36 AM
YourLocalAsian
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
3
08-17-2015 02:33 PM