markeldeiry

My car has been stalling for a few days - while driving!

I've gotten it jumped several times and that USUALLY worked (I'll explain one time when it did not).

One time it ALMOST stalled (RPMs dropped and it would not respond to the gas pedal unless it was in park), but I put it in park for a few minutes and revved it lightly. The dash clock brightened up (seemed like it was charging the battery), then a few minutes later, I put it in gear and it worked.

The first jump lasted a whole day, then subsequent jumps would last less and less until I finally changed the battery a few days later.

The day I replaced the battery (new battery 800 CCA and 62 amp hours), it started well but ran and idled rough. Two hours later after 2 or 3 starts and less than 30 miles local driving, it stalled again!

I got a jump from an SUV and that was the time it did not work! On a brand new battery!!

Now... I've read some horror stories on here about people who have had similar problems and replaced alternators, batteries, and starters only to have the problem come back again. It turned out to be a bad camshaft position sensor which was causing the stall, preventing the restart, and draining batteries because it is defective and draws too much energy.

Here are my questions:

1) How do I know if I have bad camshaft sensors? And

2) How do I know if those are causing the alternator and battery to drain?

I don't want to spend nearly $900 on a new alternator installation just to have the new one burn out and find out a $70 sensor was causing it.

Any advice on how to determine what is going on here?

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

Grab a copy of the FSM for your car and test the cam position sensors as per the FSM. You should also take your car to a shop to test the alternator. Make sure they can do a proper load test otherwise the results may or may not be accurate.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Camshaft sensor will give you error code and trigger SES light. Hook up your vehicle to OBD II scan tool to check for error code and pending error code. Go to autozone to check your battery charge and ability of alternator to maintain 14 volt battery charge while the engine is idling with load. (Lights on, aircon is on)

markeldeiry

I had my new sensors (bought them just in case I had to replace them and the car would not drive to the auto shop again) and my existing sensors side-by-side with my multimeter.

The existing sensors showed much higher resistance than the new ones. Around 14 OHMs compared to around 4 OHMs.

So I swapped them out.

I tested the battery with the car off and got 12.66V. I started the car and the voltage jumped around a bit. At idle it would fluctuate from 12.4V to 14V. When I pressed the gas just a bit (about 2,000 RPMs), it would stay up between 13.5V and 14.5V.

I think some dirt may have gotten on the bank 1 sensor harness during the change so I am going to buy some electrical cleaner and some electrical contact grease and reattach it.

I'll take it to get the alternator checked.

But is there a way to check if there is an electrical problem which is killing the alternator BEFORE I get a new alternator and burn that one too?

markeldeiry

Ah, I did have error codes and forgot to mention them. I had p0011 and p0021 which are technically IVT codes but the second cause for those codes is a bad camshaft sensor - and since these sensors have a history of failing, I figured I would test them directly and change those first.

AutoZone did not tell me if there were any pending codes (the people at this particular store seemed fairly disinterested and lazy about their jobs).

I checked the battery voltage with the car off - 12.66V. I started it and found it moving around a bit - 12.34V up to 14.5V. I revved the engine to about 2,000 RPMs and the voltage stayed between 13.5V and 14.5V.

So I suspect the alternator is probably on it's way out but not completely shot yet.

But my question is this - how do I verify whether something else is burning out the alternator and fix that first so I don't spend $900 on a new alternator and end up burning that one as well?

I only ask because I read several cases of people replacing their alternators, starters, and batteries more than once only to find a small sensor was burning it out.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

I recommend oem genuine nissan camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Most of the time aftermarket sensor will not fix the issue. Remanufactured alternator will not cost you $900.00. Your main problem is the alternator, loose ground and poor grounding. Install the big three grounding. Most of the sensor will give error code if there is a problem and lit up the ses except for Knock sensor (will not trigger SES light)

Battery negative to chassis
Alternator to battery positive
Engine block to chassis

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...other-how.html

markeldeiry

1) The sensors DID give an error code. The codes were p0011 and p0021 which are technically IVT codes but the second thing to check after that is the sensors. And the CEL has been on. When the dealership saw those codes, they said they would have to do a "pressure test" on the car because that means the cylinders may not be holding pressure. When they called me later they made no mention of those codes or a pressure test and just said your alternator is shot and needs to be replaced.

2) I am still not convinced that my alternator is bad because every time I press the gas at all, my voltmeter reads 14V or higher. But assuming it is when I test it carefully what is a good alternator to get? I've seen models ranging from $90 up to $250 and some are remanufactured and some are new.

The $900 I mentioned was from the quote the dealership gave me. They said it would cost $850-something to replace and install the new alternator. That was one of the several reasons I took the car home.

Along with the fact that the mechanic there repeatedly ignored me when I asked him to check the stupid camshaft sensor when he should know damn well that the 2002 Maxima was recalled for that exact problem and it caused all the exact symptoms I had complained about.

I will test the grounds, thank you. But if you can recommend what to look for in a replacement alternator, that would be greatly appreciated.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Nissan stealership will give you a remanufactured alternator.
Get the Hitachi ALR0014
http://www.rockauto.com/
I have the same error code 3months ago, since I bought this car with 104,000 miles, My mechanic replaced both camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor. Delete the code, his Snap ON OBD scanner showed no error code but with impending codes ,he told me to perform a drive cycle to erase impending code. The drive cycle cannot be performed with a weak battery.
http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle

MAF sensor, Throttle Assembly are common culprit of engine stalling.

You need to replace this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251504358373...84.m1436.l2649

Since your in NJ I will recommend my trusted mechanic who maintain my Nissan Maxima 2002 , Toyota Camry 2007. Try to contact him :Ferdie Guevarra 201-287-0446. His shop is between Teaneck Cedar Lane and River Road

markeldeiry

I live less than 5 miles from there. I am in Ridgefield Park about a block from the Railroad street which turns into River Road as you go a bit north.

I'll might seek out your mechanic if I continue to have trouble although I also have a very trusted mechanic in that area. His name is Neil and he is on Railroad Street (or Avenue or... Railroad something). He is in Ridgefield Park just north of the station there. Very nice guy. Very knowledgeable. But also a bit expensive.

Here's the latest. I replaced the 2 camshaft sensors. I bought the crankshaft sensor as well but haven't changed it yet since it is so hard to access - I figured I would start with these and only change that one if I still have trouble.

Today I removed the two camshaft sensors, sprayed the harnesses with electrical cleaner, and reinstalled them carefully and tightly. I also sanded a little crud off the battery cables and sprayed those then reattached them carefully.

Since then, the car definitely starts much easier.

When the car is off, the battery reads 12.5V. When it is idling, I get readings which fluctuate (not a fast fluctuation) from 12.3V up to 14.1V.

When I press the gas, the voltage goes up and stays between 13.8V and 14.5V.

I am going to AutoZone now to get the alternator tested.

I will also check out the MAF sensor (I sprayed that connector with electrical cleaner today as well), and the throttle as you suggested.

What would indicate if there is truly a problem with the alternator as opposed to some sort of malfunctioning electrical element which is drawing way too much power? What result should I see on the alternator test if it working correctly?

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Do not clean the throttle body, do not touch the butterfly inside the throttle body because 5th gen maxima have electronic throttle. I have no idea what battery tester you are using. Just go to autozone to check your alternator with load without pressing the gas. By the way my mechanic, charge reasonable by job work not by hours .

markeldeiry

I have a multimeter which measures up to 10Amps. I disconnected my negative cable from the battery and hooked up my multimeter in series... it went off the charts.

I don't know how it is possible but, with the key out of the car, all doors closed, lights off, everything... there were over TEN amps being pulled!!

As you know, it should be less than 100 mAmps. So I am going to Home Depot now to buy an ammeter that can read up to 400 DC amps and I'm going to pull each fuse one by one until I figure out what is going on.

I am convinced that whatever is drawing so much energy is what is causing the alternator to APPEAR like it is not working. At the very least, I can find out what is drawing the current and fix that first - and then if the alternator is already ruined and needs replacing, at least I will know it is a correct diagnosis and not a false reading because of something bizarre going on with the electrical system.

I went to AutoZone just now. The kid there wouldn't know his butt from a hole in the ground.

He hooked it up to the little battery checker and found 12.6V and 710 CCA. But when I started the car he simply said, "your alternator is shot."

Now... it is possible he is correct. But I also asked him to run an ammeter test to try to confirm the reading I got. He didn't have a multimeter or ammeter strong enough to do that so he couldn't help out.

I just found a strong enough ammeter (AC and DC) at Home Depot nearby, so I am on my way there now to do that test next.

Any thoughts on what could be drawing more than 10 Amps without the key in the car?? If I figure it out, I will post it here.

markeldeiry

I detached the ground cable from the negative terminal of the battery so I could test to see if there was some sort of parasitic draw. My uncle is working w me and he is an engineer and used to work as a mechanic. There was a 1.5 amp current running when we connected the meter in series - I bought a high end model that measures from milliamps to 400 amps and up to 750V both ac and DC. We decided to test whether there was a voltage between the negative and the ground - 12.4v!! We tested from the pos to the neg - 12.4v! Pos to ground wire - zero!

So there is a short somewhere and when the cables are attached, it is essentially shorting the two poles together.

Now we have to hunt down the short. Any advice on spots we should check which are more likely to have a problem? Or a method to do it which won't take forever?

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Most of the forum I have read recommend additional grounding like this
http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...&idcategory=24
VQ35DE is mostly controlled by sensors, any shortage on the circuit , failure of sensor will trigger SES light and the engine will be on limp mode. Even the stop light bulb still working but near busted will give a warning red light on cluster.
If happen there is a shortage on the main battery cable you will see a smoke and the fusible link will melt and the car will not start. ECU, throttle assembly (electronic), digital watch, OEM antitheft with red car icon the lit intermittently, airbag sensor , front electonic engine mount, will draw a current to the battery.The alternator actually produces AC current but the car battery and vehicle's electrical components run on DC current. Diodes are used to change the AC current into DC current. The alternator will not provide optimum power if the diodes are not functioning properly. I replaced the rear valve cover, replaced ignition and sparkplugs by myself. By doing this I learned a lot how this engine function, its flaws, (tapered piston, consumed oil but can be prevented by oil catch can, two secondary catalytic converter that needs to be gutted or replace which is known to destroy the engine.

Go to any reputable mechanic and test your alternator , as I have said the ability of alternator to maintain ,sustain, with no fluctuation of voltage while the engine is idling with load without pressing the gas. I believe your alternator still work but unable to maintain a voltage during acceleration with load.

markeldeiry

Is there an alternator regulator on this car? Other electrical components have been acting strangely on this car for a long time and I didn't think much of it because they were minor (seat heaters seem to be on all the time so I removed the fuse and disconnected the switch, moon roof tilts open but sunroof won't slide back, passenger window opens 2 inches if I use the auto close button, horn did not beep with the key fob lock button for years but it is suddenly back this week). Maybe it is the computer just malfunctioning. How do I even check that?

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but electronic better off change the whole alternator.
No disrespect, before you touch anything on your car, please read this

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2002/

5th generation maxima , if happen you disconnect the battery cable. you need to reset the ffing: monroof motor. If the throttle connector is removed need to reset the ecu by consult II of Nissan Stealership or do it yourself the throttle relearn procedure. Do not disconnect any connector with key inserted on the steering wheel, better off disconnecting the negative battery cable before testing any electrical connection.
Read page 3 all relearn produre
http://www.nwpengineering.com/NWP%20...012%20rev3.pdf

markeldeiry

Are you actually suggesting I read the entire FSM to be able to determine why there is 1.45A of current flowing while the car is off?

Maybe you've over estimated the problem just a tad. Or assumed that I am clueless because I'm stumped by this problem.

I am not concerned with messing up so bad that I destroy anything. I know I could have read all about the alternator and its regulator in the FSM but I thought it would be faster and I could get more insight about the issue if I asked on here first.

Also, I've learned that if an alternator does not put out 14V it does not necessarily mean that it is dead. The connections could be bad or the regulator could be bad. So far I've had the stealership and auto zone both check my alternator and both simply said it was bad without at all checking anything else even after I expressly asked them to search for a parasitic drain or check if the sensors were just eating up energy the way they did when they were recalled.

So now I did the first part of the parasitic drain test and confirmed that something is drawing 1.45A when everything is off and the key is not in the car. My next step is to pull fuses one at a time to check which circuit is involved and to check if the connections on the alternator are clean and secure.