bosshogoutlaw

Hi I am having trouble with my 2000 Nissan Maxima. A week ago I pulled over, after i smelled something burning, and had smoke coming from my driver side rear fender well. The rim, brakes, rotor where super hot. I let it cool and somehow drove home without it catching fire. I had a mechanic tell me to change out the caliper so i did. I am still having the same problem out of the new caliper. My car takes off and drives and stops fine, its just the pads heat up within a mile of driving, Is this a sign that its my brake line or something else. The car still rolls back and forth in neutral so its just not releasing the pads fully after i press the brake. Its only the driver side rear doing it. What should i do??

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Raise both rear wheels. Try to rotate both passenger and driver side wheels compare both side. Then, start the car, press the brake and release , check both wheels if you need to hands to move the wheel,you have a stuck caliper, needs to be clean or replaced. Check the hand brake cable , might also possibly stuck up.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Slide pins in the torque member (bracket that holds the brake pads) often get seized up.

Take them out and hit em on a bench grinder to clean them up.

FanaticMadMax

sounds like a seized caliper, however like Colt149 says, check your e-brake make sure it not stuck

bosshogoutlaw

I have put on a new caliper and the pads and rotor are still getting too hot drive. Its not seized up enough to keep the wheel from moving. Its just not releasing completely off the rotor when i let off the brake. Its just barley touching enough to heat up the pads and rotor with in a half mile of driving. If i go more than a mile they are smoking hot. What can i work on to help them release completly off the rotor. The e brake is fine and all new hardware was installed when i put on the new caliper. Im thinking its in the brake line, something is keeping the pressure on to not let the pads release fully. I appreciate any info

colt149

iTrader: (1)

You failed to post that you install a new rotor and pad. . Any new rotor, you need to apply a cleaner to remove the coating on the surface metal of the rotor before installing it. Depending on the manufacturer, you need to perfrom brake pad and rotor bed in procedure to prevent warp rotor.
read this:http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/...currentpage=80

bosshogoutlaw

I only installed a new caliper and pads. rotor is good. pads dont release fully but they do release about 80% back to normal position after you let off the brake

colt149

iTrader: (1)

What brand of caliper you installed? new oem remanufactured, new aftermarket?

bosshogoutlaw

New from Orileys Auto parts

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Remove the E-brake from the calipers if possible.....and then check if your brakes are still rubbing....the e-brake cables which are 3 cables that are connected together above the exhaust heat shields of your B-pipe.....the two (2) cables the actually run to the rear brakes are known to freeze up inside the teleflex cabling locking up your rear brakes....I'm sure this is your main issue not the calipers!

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...2052_2055.html

bosshogoutlaw

OK i will try that BC I do have 280,000 miles. I do use my ebrake alot . I can see how that would cause the problem i have. Thanks

bosshogoutlaw

I disconnected my ebrake from caliper and the rotor/pads are still getting hot.
My new caliper came with new hardware. I just used the old bolts and rubber boot, should it reinstall it with new hardware? will it make that big of difference and possibly solve my problem?.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

I believe its the caliper, you are better off to install a used OEM genuine Nissan parts.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Smoking hot or just hot? You got an infared Thermometer? If they are dragging even the wheels will be hot to the touch.... Once you disconnected the E-Brake were the wheels still dragging some if you had it jacked up to rotate? You can view the Caliper Ebrake lever and there's a pin or stop once they're released that the lever should travel back too and against! If the caliper is in the fully released state...the next installation problem causing the pads to not release is whether you got the caliper piston notches aligned with the pins on the pads @ the 6 O' clock position!

bosshogoutlaw

Yea if i drive for a mile even the wheel is hot to touch. When its jacked up you can hear a sqeak, drag, when the wheel is rotated, and thats with the ebrake disconnected. When i got the new caliper I just threw pads on and bolted it up with same bolts and the connected ebrake and brake line. How should i reinstall the new one im fixing to go trade back in?

This is how i installed my pads and caliper

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

^^^^ this ^^^^

bosshogoutlaw

THe problem was a slide pin was seized up. Got it out, put new in with plenty of grease and problem solved. Could have fixed it if i would have paid attention to detail. Thanks for input to all who posted and HAPPY 4th of July. #Merica