shaunkey1

Hi all. I have a 2002 nissan maxima that I have been driving for more than ten years now, without any issues. On saturday, i attempted to turn on the car (after not driving it for a week), but the car cranked without being able to start. It was not the battery, fuel pump, or starter (which were all checked by my family mechanic). I then had the car towed to the stealership to diagnose the issue. The guy at the stealership said that the immobilizer is fried and that it needs to be replaced. I was quoted 538 to fix it, but later negotiated to bring the cost down to 425. However, my concern is that the dealership did not really need to change the immobilizer , but could have simply reprogrammed the key. Is my concern legitimate? Do immobilizers often go bad on the maximas? Can anyone give me some input about this? Anything will be greatly appreciated.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

What part number is on your receipt? The immobilizer control unit is part number 28590-C9901. The MSRP is around $163. It's pretty easy to replace, 1/2 hour (3/4 hour with coffee break). Must have hit you up for about 2 hours of diagnostics.

Did they just reprogram your key(s)? Who knows, I sure don't.

Do the immobilizer things go bad? Absolutely, just like every part on the car.

Do the immobilized parts go bad very often? I don't think so. I don't read about that on the org here very often.

justgotamax

Please help . Just purchased 2000 nissan maxim a 5spd manual v6 . Car ran fine initially about month later car woundnt start cranks for days . Mechanic looked at it hit underneath car near fuel pump car started said I needed to replace fuel pump so i replaced it . Car ran for about a week then yesterday went to work when try leave same issue . New battery is in there, spark plugs are good as well as crank sensor, sprayed starting fluid in there car started for couple of seconds . Check engine light came on codes p1320 , po180, p1490, p0446 popped also twice when trying to switch to neutral to coast to red light car turned off but I just turned key and cranked back up also last nite when I played with shifter for a while car started but immediately turned back off happen twice back to back then wouldn't start no more

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The P1320 code is probably the one you want to fix first. The other 3 codes won't prevent the car from running.

P1320 is a pita, there are no hard, definite, point the finger at cures. The code says it is an ignition circuit problem. Many times a car will have multiple bad ignition coils. Another cause could be the CKPS(REF) crankshaft sensor that is by the crankshaft pulley.

The P0180 code is interesting. It is the fuel tank temperature sensor. Was the entire fuel tank sending unit changed or just the fuel pump?

Some what of a remote possibility is the P1490 code, vacuum cut valve bypass valve. If this valve is stuck open, that in effect causes a vacuum leak. But I don't think it woul kill the engine or keep it from starting. The vacuum cut valve bypass valve is back by the gas tank on the driver's side.

The P0446 EVAP canister vent control valve is not going to keep the car from running. This valve irritates people that live in the snow belt as it is susceptible to corrosion from winter road salt. Sometimes WD40 will free up the plunger inside the valve and you are good to go. Sometimes you have to replace it. the EVAP canister vent control valve is bolted onto the EVAP canister.