5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

New car - 2000 Ti Model

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Old 10-05-2014, 12:28 AM
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New car - 2000 Ti Model

Hi there,

I'm possibly going to sign a deal tomorrow depending on the pre-purchase inspection gonig well. It's done 149k's.

There are a few defects with it I picked up:

1) Cracked dash(I poseted a thread about it last week.
2) Aerial doesnt work
3) NIssan remote trunk button doesnt work
4) Paint work - Front bumper needs re-painting, and little parking lot dents

The dealer has been kind enough to do a discount for the cracked dash, as its pretty bad. So bad that I will need to replace the entire dash, which is a bit of a pain in the ***.

I dont know how the car is mechanically.

I was planning on doing a full service on it:

1) Engine/Transmission oil(5w30). Might use SeaFoam
2) Spark plugs
3) AIr/Fuel filter
4) Check/Change drive belts
5) Brake fluids/Pads etc
6) Radiator clean/flush out

The above I plan on doing over a few weeks(time constraints).

I also plan on either fixing, or replacing the aerial, and getting a new case for the remote.

Could you guru's please advise:

1) How do you fix the trunk button not working? Hoping someone's had it before. This is the stock nissan remote.

2) Anything else I should include with the service? I plan on using geniune Nissan filters, and possibly synthetic oils, and I plan on doing everything myself, except the tranny flush, where I MIGHT get it professionally flushed rather then just drop and fill.
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:05 AM
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Hey mate!

Maxima Ti huh? So you basically have an Aussie 2000 I30 there, with the VQ30dek.

I wouldn't be too worried about the cracked dash, especially if its you're getting a great deal on the car itself. You can always get a junkyard dash, and yeah its a PITA but its cheap and can be done, the car will always run without a dash, check the engine first.

Replacing + painting front bumper is a few hundred bucks here, if you ever wanted to do that. The remote button thing? Who cares... It's probably just that one button, or the keyfob battery, either way easy to fix. And even if it doesn't work, good deal on the car will remedy that.

Anyway I would really check the mechanical on that thing. BTW, for the remote just open it up and look at it, should be able to figure out if it's the button or the battery just by looking at it, go from there for the easy fix.

Now for your maintenance/tune up list I think you got a good start there, all of that looks good. Only thing I would advise AGAINST doing is a transmission flush, ONLY do drain/fills. And finally, good idea to check the coils on that engine while you do the plugs, some of them are probably new by now, check to see if they're grey dot on them or not, the non-grey dot ones are known to go bad.
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:29 AM
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You have to press the trunk button really hard or it doesn't work (in case you didn't try that lol).

I've never seen a 4th gen or newer maxima with a cracked dash no matter how high the age/miles. I think this thing was abused.

Craigslist will have better cars than a dealer trying to get you for 2 grand more than what the car is worth.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-05-2014 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:24 PM
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it needs to much work.. Find another
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Old 10-05-2014, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by george__
it needs to much work.. Find another
We will all defer to your expert opinion.

S
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Old 10-05-2014, 05:09 PM
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Hah,

Thanks for the opinions guys.

The mechanical report came by - just a few things of minor concern such as the discs have a slight vibration so I will sort that out at next pad change, and the wheels need balancing.

Overall I'm happy with the car's condition. The dealer will be servicing it for me(new engine oil/filter).

Could you please advise why I shouldnt do a tranny flush?
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Old 10-05-2014, 05:43 PM
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Basically your old tranny fluid has built up gunk that MAY be preventing leaks. A flush would expose those leaks. If your tranny fluid was flushed regularly then this wouldn't be an issue but there is no way to tell.
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Old 10-05-2014, 06:10 PM
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I would stick with simple drain and fills instead.

S
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:32 PM
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Thanks guys,

picked the car up today at lunch.. Drives fine. Loads of low down torque.

Did a very quick inspection when I got home.. Will upload pics this weekend.

Aparently the dealers did a service today, but the oil is black in my standards.. so **** them. I'll do a service on it next weekend.

Things to do this weekend:

1) Get rid of the smoke smells!!! Gross! Will take the seats out and give it a good clean and spray some **** to get of the ciggie smells. ANY IDEAS PLEASE!!?!?!?
2) Spanner check of the engine bay.. Noticed a few bolts missing for the air filter assy.. assuming the previous owners ****ed around a bit.
3) Wash and polish the headlights
4) Check the aerial connection. Might need to replace the whole assy.

The compression results was really good.. The lowest being aroud 185-190psi, and the rest on 200psi or just over.
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Old 10-12-2014, 03:26 AM
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Hows this?

Before


After


Thanks to my buffer and Meguirs swirl X.. Each light took me only 5 mins.. or so.. made 3 passes with the buffer.. Still pretty cloudy, but not a bad job for 5 mins and 2 beers on a sunday arvo!
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Old 10-12-2014, 03:57 AM
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^ Dude, are you kidding..

That looks incredible if it really took you only 5 mins.

Takes years off the car right away. Keep up the good work, post some more pics of whole car..

Oh and cigarette smell will never fully come out of cloth seats, unfortunately. Dont ask how I know...Not just the seats but all other cloth materials too...Leather interior is only way to mostly avoid that smell...
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Old 10-12-2014, 02:21 PM
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hah,

thanks, well it took me im guessing 5 mins, but probably closer to 10 to be more precise.. I dont know why it was that quick, as my previous car it took much longer..

I've managed to rid most of the ciggie smells.. I spray some of this dettol disinfectant spray after work and leave it overnight..

I had planned to rip the seats out last weekend but couldnt as had work around the house.

Pics to come..
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:35 PM
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Brakes - Sorted.. the fronts were prettyyy badly warped! Also discovered that the drivers side CV boot is ripped, so will get them changed soon as its spilling grease all over!

Car's coming together nicely now Hopefully will do a oil service this weekend with seafoam and plugs as well.
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:56 PM
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Hi guys,

I have a 4L container of some cheap shell 20w50 that i used to use on my other car..

I think this engine has a lot of **** in it.. I was going to do a oil change soon, but i'm thinking of dropping the oil, and running the 20w50 for a few days only, then change the oil/filter with something better - 10w40?

Usually, I wouldnt care to ask, as I figure this wont be bad, but any advice?

I dont thrash the car.. just a daily commute on the freeway(50k's/day)
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Hybridtheory
Thanks guys,

picked the car up today at lunch.. Drives fine. Loads of low down torque.

Did a very quick inspection when I got home.. Will upload pics this weekend.

Aparently the dealers did a service today, but the oil is black in my standards.. so **** them. I'll do a service on it next weekend.

Things to do this weekend:

1) Get rid of the smoke smells!!! Gross! Will take the seats out and give it a good clean and spray some **** to get of the ciggie smells. ANY IDEAS PLEASE!!?!?!?
2) Spanner check of the engine bay.. Noticed a few bolts missing for the air filter assy.. assuming the previous owners ****ed around a bit.
3) Wash and polish the headlights
4) Check the aerial connection. Might need to replace the whole assy.

The compression results was really good.. The lowest being aroud 185-190psi, and the rest on 200psi or just over.
Hybrid,
I am in similar situation - have a 2000 SE - which I decided to keep "forever". You have a good plan, but I have a few suggestions. For one, take care of the important (potentially expensive) things first:
  • Change your engine oil. The recommended oil for our cars is 5W-30. I use Mobil1, and consider switching to Penzoil Ultra (Wallmart sells 1 gal real cheap). Both synthetics, so I change every 7,000 miles and that's probably very conservative.
  • Take care of your tranny. Drain&Fill, but do not (power) Flush. My post on another thread elaborates (https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post8987519) - read it. To take care of possibly neglected tranny, I would suggest doing three or four consecutive drains/fills.
  • Take preventative measures to avoid loosing/frying your ECU. Our cars have two well-known problems that can damage your ECU: Engine mounts and IACV. The preventive medicine is to a) Disconnect your two electronic engine mounts - one front and one rear, and b) Implement "coolant bypass" for your IACV.

The 2000 Max is a good car. The engine is bullet-proof, and the transmission is good if you take care of it. BTW, I assume that your car is an automatic. If not, you can probably do just one drain/fill.

Finally, get an inexpensive ODBC reader so that you can check your codes.

Last edited by maxiiiboy; 10-18-2014 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:37 AM
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Thanks man.

I have a Nissan Consult cable from my previous nissan..

Would that fit??
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Old 10-26-2014, 02:10 AM
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Antenna and radio fixed.. power cable to the aerial was not plugged, nor was the aerial to the back of the radio..

Not bad economy, but could have been better.. considering i filled up around 60Litres.. did 610k's to a full tank.
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Hybridtheory
Antenna and radio fixed.. power cable to the aerial was not plugged, nor was the aerial to the back of the radio..

Not bad economy, but could have been better.. considering i filled up around 60Litres.. did 610k's to a full tank.
You going to be lucky to get 17-18 mpg city
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:29 PM
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hah, cars mainly driven on the motorways(freeway).

When I parked up, it still showed the needle sitting between 1/4 and E.. wtf?

Yet when i start driving the fuel lights comes on after a few mins and the needle sits on E.. I'm confused. Help? None of my cars did that.. help
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Hybridtheory
hah, cars mainly driven on the motorways(freeway).

When I parked up, it still showed the needle sitting between 1/4 and E.. wtf?

Yet when i start driving the fuel lights comes on after a few mins and the needle sits on E.. I'm confused. Help? None of my cars did that.. help
Thats normal when fuel level is low (below few gals)

Depends much on where you park too, anything other than a 100% perfect straight road can cause the fuel level to shift in the tank itself..

Also starting to drive and applying load will affect fuel level right away and make light go back on vs idling in one place.
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Old 11-02-2014, 01:23 PM
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Nah, my house is dead flat, so thats a bit annoying. Anywho I just have to get used to it.

Some progress:
https://maxima.org/forums/detailing/...ml#post8997039

Managed to get the ugly car bra off!! And some pics on that thread.

Dumb question, but where the f is the oil filter on these motors? I spent about 10 mins looking for it yesterday.. I have a feeling i'll find it when I jack her up. Anyone?
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