Well as you may know I struggled with a bad flywheel after a MT swap. Thursday I replaced it with a new Luk model from RockAuto. When I had it mounted I noticed the timing ring was bent in a few places from shipping. Damn! No way I was going to take it off and wait a week for a new one so I did my best to straighten it. Slapped everything together and it fired right up. Starts and runs like a champ however I noticed the CEL came on right away. I jumped on Car Gauge and saw the code is P0335 - Crank Position sensor. I reset it and it kept running fine until I restarted the car and the CEL came back on. Same code. Reset again and doesn't come back on until I restart. Car runs great though
Do you think it's possible that if a portion of the timing ring is off just enough that the sensor misses a signal at startup only - triggers a code- but then runs fine once running? I would assume that if it is missing information it would start and run like crap but that's not the case.
Do you think it's possible that if a portion of the timing ring is off just enough that the sensor misses a signal at startup only - triggers a code- but then runs fine once running? I would assume that if it is missing information it would start and run like crap but that's not the case.
Senior Member
My guess is that the ECU misses a pulse or two while cranking. The speed that the flywheel teeth move past the sensor makes a difference in the strength of the signal in a transducer, which is what the crankshaft sensor is. Cranking speed is much slower than idling speed.
Check the spacing between the flywheel teeth and the transducer in a spot that didn't have any damage and compare it to the area(s) that had damage. It may be a pain in the butt, but check all the teeth. There may be a bent spot that is small and you didn't catch it. There are 360 teeth on the ring, so mark your starting point.
Check the spacing between the flywheel teeth and the transducer in a spot that didn't have any damage and compare it to the area(s) that had damage. It may be a pain in the butt, but check all the teeth. There may be a bent spot that is small and you didn't catch it. There are 360 teeth on the ring, so mark your starting point.
Thanks Dennis. Always a wealth of information. I'll pull that sensor and rotate the engine and see what might be causing the code. Hopefully I can bend what I need to straight through the sensor hole. At least to the point that it won't trigger the CEL.
I doubt the ring is responsible unless it's severely bent. I had a ring falling off the flywheel (big gap & misaligned, literally 3 screws holding it in) and it never threw a code.
However, a bad sensor will throw a code whether the car starts normal and runs or not
I'd swap it with an oem one and see (junkyard time).
However, a bad sensor will throw a code whether the car starts normal and runs or not
I'd swap it with an oem one and see (junkyard time).
No luck with the auto CPS but I think I found the culprit....
No wonder. It was shipped to Canada in the original OEM box with no protection. I saw the timing ring was bent but I missed this. Now I'm screwed for emissions testing here because it throws a code.
No wonder. It was shipped to Canada in the original OEM box with no protection. I saw the timing ring was bent but I missed this. Now I'm screwed for emissions testing here because it throws a code.
It's the only thing that I can see that could be triggering this code. The rest of the ring looks in good shape and pretty straight. This appears to be the only defect. I'm just speculating at this point though.
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I dropped my flywheel and didn't bother straightening the ringOriginally Posted by ateick
It's the only thing that I can see that could be triggering this code. The rest of the ring looks in good shape and pretty straight. This appears to be the only defect. I'm just speculating at this point though.
Senior Member
If that little chipped tooth is the problem, the signal strength from the transducer would have to be almost too weak.
Trying to relate the problem to the flywheel change, the only theory I can come up with is that the diameter of the new timing ring is slightly smaller than the original. Increased distance between the sensor and flywheel timing ring would mean a weaker signal.
Maybe the crankshaft sensor itself is somehow becoming weaker. I don't know how you feel about taking a wild guess and replacing the crankshaft sensor.
Trying to relate the problem to the flywheel change, the only theory I can come up with is that the diameter of the new timing ring is slightly smaller than the original. Increased distance between the sensor and flywheel timing ring would mean a weaker signal.
Maybe the crankshaft sensor itself is somehow becoming weaker. I don't know how you feel about taking a wild guess and replacing the crankshaft sensor.
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Trying to relate the problem to the flywheel change, the only theory I can come up with is that the diameter of the new timing ring is slightly smaller than the original. Increased distance between the sensor and flywheel timing ring would mean a weaker signal.
Maybe the crankshaft sensor itself is somehow becoming weaker. I don't know how you feel about taking a wild guess and replacing the crankshaft sensor.
I May have to try a new sensor. Not sure if that will do it but it will point me in the right ddirection.Originally Posted by DennisMik
If that little chipped tooth is the problem, the signal strength from the transducer would have to be almost too weak.Trying to relate the problem to the flywheel change, the only theory I can come up with is that the diameter of the new timing ring is slightly smaller than the original. Increased distance between the sensor and flywheel timing ring would mean a weaker signal.
Maybe the crankshaft sensor itself is somehow becoming weaker. I don't know how you feel about taking a wild guess and replacing the crankshaft sensor.
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Make sure the subharness is good.Originally Posted by ateick
I May have to try a new sensor. Not sure if that will do it but it will point me in the right ddirection.
Does anyone know the resistance across terminals 2 and 3 on the crank position sensor? The FSM doesn't give a value. I am measuring 1.25K ohms on one of my sensors.
I believe it develops 2.4V if you test it with the engine cranking over but the FSM is vague on an ohm reading. Just says "Except 0 and infinity"
Senior Member
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Yup i know butOriginally Posted by ateick
I believe it develops 2.4V if you test it with the engine cranking over but the FSM is vague on an ohm reading. Just says "Except 0 and infinity"
I asumme a lot of things i don't know about you,so that would leave me to belive if any other number except 0 is present then it's good.
Update - problem solved by $10 junkyard crank position sensor. Weird. The two other ones I had performed flawlessly before the flywheel change. I put in a 12 year old one from an auto I35 and bam! I'm all good.
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Originally Posted by ateick
Update - problem solved by $10 junkyard crank position sensor. Weird. The two other ones I had performed flawlessly before the flywheel change. I put in a 12 year old one from an auto I35 and bam! I'm all good.
Electronic crap is finnicky. Good thing we don't have BMWs (I have an e34 lol)
Senior Member
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Glad to hear !!!i had a similar situation with a cam sensor ,i just went with the $10 I30 sensor and code went awayOriginally Posted by ateick
Update - problem solved by $10 junkyard crank position sensor. Weird. The two other ones I had performed flawlessly before the flywheel change. I put in a 12 year old one from an auto I35 and bam! I'm all good.