Hello,

I've got a weird issue. I searched the forum but didn't see anything like my situation. Here's what happened:

- Yesterday, on the highway, got cruise control set at 65, in sixth gear. Kind of daydreaming, all of the sudden the car either stalled or experienced a sudden loss of power (battery light, ABS, etc lights came on). I downshifted, eased out the clutch, came right back on. The road was relatively smooth, didn't hit a pothole or anything.

- Today, had to goose the throttle to get out into traffic. A couple minutes later, sudden loss of power. Trying to pop the clutch failed to work, the car was on but was struggling to rev. I pulled over, and the car idled fine. I revved it up, and all was fine except one time when it got past 4k, it dropped a bit. It did it a second time today - sudden loss of power, but then came back strong all by herself.

One Autozone girl said the battery was "100% bad" and that caused my stall. Right. She also said I should replace the alternator. I did that 4 months ago or so.

Advance checked the battery, and I do have one dead cell, but they said I'd probably be okay for a while. Battery turns the engine STRONG.

Any ideas as to where to start? The only thing I know that happened recently was that I let the tank get really, REALLY low. Since I have so many miles and have never changed the fuel filter ("lifetime filter", right? ), I thought maybe I've got crap in the lines.

Here are my car's particulars:

- 2003 SE, 6 speed manual
- 255,351 miles
- New clutch (1,000 miles ago)
- New alternator (aftermarket, 4 months old)

I did NOT get a CEL/SES light, so the auto stores said they wouldn't be able to read a code.

I've never replaced the MAF, though I did clean it 6 or 8 months ago with the CRC stuff.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! It stalled on me in busy traffic, which is fine when I'm alone, but when my kids are in the car, that's not going to be cool.

Thanks,
Jack

 

did you get the codes? Test the battery with a volt it should be putting 13.+ at the battery terminals just to make sure the alt is working. MAF is always a culprit on Maximas....

 

When's the last time u changed MAF?

 

Hi Guys,

Sorry, I forgot to add: I did NOT get a CEL/SES light, and both 'Zone and Advance said they couldn't read a code if there was no CEL or SES light.

As for the MAF, I have never replaced it. I did use the CRC cleaner on it maybe 6 or 8 months ago, but had no issues.

Jack

 

if the car is sluggish and has no power, then the MAF is going, there is a use dont use CRC on the MAF, different opinions on it. But I'm sticking with the MAF if there are no codes.

 

Thanks for the input, but I want to make sure we're on the same page. The car usually runs fine - it's just these intermittent failures. Now, if you're saying that a bad MAF sensor can and will cause my problems, cool. I'm just making sure we all know that my Max isn't always sluggish - she's usually pretty spry for an old girl!

Jack

 

Lubeee

 

I don't even know where to go with that, brother.

 

So maf is not the cause?

 

That's what *I* would like to know!

 

Common Symptoms of a BAD Nissan MAF Sensor

These are some of the most common symptoms of a BAD Nissan MAF sensor:

1. A MAF sensor code that lights up the check engine light (CEL), but not always.
2. Lean and/or Rich code(s).
3. Fuel Trim code(s).
4. A tremendous lack of power upon acceleration.
5. Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe.
6. Won't pass an emmissions test.
7. Vehicle may idle rough and stall.
8. BAD gas mileage.

Looks like at least #4 and #7 apply

 

If I had a known battery with a dead cell, I would replace the battery immediately, especially if I was having electrical issues. These cars have a lot of intricate electronics and anything other than the correct voltage may cause you a lot more cost than replacing the battery.

 

Well I'm definitely replacing the battery. It's nigh on to five years old anyway.

My main concern is what the hell is causing my car to stall/cut off.

Any other things to check?

Thanks guys.

 

There was something I didn't mention - when it stalled today the first time, I noticed that the battery light would come on/flicker if I revved it up past 4k or so.

Jack

 

Bumping my own thread here...but one of the Autozone guys said it could be a bad camshaft position sensor. Thoughts?

Jack

 

Symptoms of Wear or Failure

• Problems starting the car
• Engine may shut off or die intermittently
• Engine may misfire or hesitate on acceleration
• Check Engine Light may illuminate

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-124.pdf

Wouldn't the dealer have picked up on this IF it was the cam sensor?

 

Thanks, George. Just so I have the terminology right, is the the CAMshaft position sensor that's probably bad, or the CRANKshaft position sensor?

Also, I know our cars have 2 cam pos sensors - anyway to tell which one might be the culprit without just replacing both? Money's tight...as always.

Jack

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2002/EC.pdf

EC-340

 

Thanks for that. However, I don't have the equipment necessary to do those tests.

Again, not sure if I should be looking at cam or crank shaft sensors.

 

the cel will come up with the crank or cam sensor... reset the ECU for now. Unplug the battery fir a few hrs and see what happens after that. No cel is like guessing

 

Yes, +1.
Looks like a bad MAF, just get a new one - it's only $77 from Courtesy Parts.

 

I made a thread on the engine problem I had on my 4th gen. a long time ago, which turned out to be a bad MAF.

Basically when things were just starting to go out, I get the same sudden loss of power while accelerating. I remember getting ready to turn at a red light and the car would start going like normal then suddenly cut out and then regain power and jerk forward. That was a scary moment because a car was going towards me pretty fast and I was gonna gun it but it stalled out midway, luckily power came back before I got ran over lol.

Later, I started getting lean codes for bank one then bank two. It kept switching back and forth. Along with starting problems and the same suddenly loss of power along with a rough idle.

Eventually my car would not start anymore. Sometimes, it would start and run extremely rough. As soon as it is in gear it would die.

So if you know for sure it is the MAF do not wait too long like I did.

 

Maybe you have a defective Camshaft/crankshaft sensor that's intermittent....Check your altenator belt condition and tension as well and check that all you sensor connector pins are corrosion free and stilll engaging with a tight fit!

 

Thanks, I'll check those. Question, though - why would the alternator belt factor in? It's only a few months old and I'm sure it's fine, I'm just curious why that might be a factor?


To sum up so far:

- Some still think it HAS to be the MAF sensor.
- If it is the MAF, Camshaft or Crankshaft Position Sensors, it should throw a code and light the CEL/SES light.

I really appreciate the help, but I'm hoping someone can offer a more definite solution before I'm t-boned by a truck.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it!

Jack

 

Your logic about the MAF is wrong.

The MAF sensor often - in fact typically - does not throw a code; this tends to confuse even professional mechanics. My mechanic wasted 3 hours, replaced all kinds of parts incl. the fuel pump, until I forced him to replace the MAF. Problem solved.

Just replace your MAF - you should have a spare one at hand anyway.

 

Thanks! It wasn't my logic, though, but that of the good folks trying to help me.

Okay, MAF it is, then (at first). That's easier to reach than the others, anyway.

Anyone got a good source for just the sensor, or must I replace the entire "air box" it's attached to?

Jack

 

^
Courtesy Nissan
This forum

 

Battery

MAF

 

Man, I am so freaking confused.

- Battery
- MAF
- Cam/Crank sensors
- Alternator belt

I've read lots of posts about each, and none of them seem to have my symptom. I know you're all trying to help, but I don't have the cash to replace all that and hope it works, you know?

Also, the MAF for '03s isn't $77, it's 300 or so, I think.

 

^
Fix the MAF since it's common to go hay-wire.

Yeah the gen 5.5 maf are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Try to find a used one (www.car-part.com)

 

you can also use the 01, do a search here and you will know how to make it work.

 

Quick question for the experts:

There's a parts yard 10 miles from me that just got in (like yesterday) an Infiniti G35 with under 100k on the clock with the MAF still in it. Is it worth a shot to spend $40 to try it?

Jack

 

nope, order a new one

 

How would a G35 maf work in the Maxima? Wouldn't the wiring be different?

 

I thought that there was a lot of interchangeability between the G35 and the Max. Or is it the I30?

 

i30 - i35 depending on your engine

 

yeah doesn't go it

I30 = 2000-2001 (3.0L)
I35 = 2002-2003 (3.5L)

????

 

First thing to do - get rid of/replace the battery. If the cell in the battery is dead, that isn't a big problem except for starting. But if that cell is shorted, it is overloading the alternator and that could be killing the engine. With the bad battery in place, get a voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery while the engine is running.

If the voltage reading is not at approx 14 volts, there is a problem. If the voltage is below 13 volts, DO SOMETHING IMMEDIATELY like replace the battery.

When you have a voltage reading of approx 14 volts, then we'll see how the car runs and if further repairs are needed.

 

Hi Dennis,

Checked the voltage at the terminals with the "bad" battery in place. Running without lights on, 14.36 Volts; with lights on, 14.31 Volts.

I know that probably has more to do with the alternator than the battery (keeping 14, that is), but it would appear that the bad cell is dead/open, not shorted, otherwise I'd expect lower voltage.

 

Hook up your vehicle to OBD scan tool with live feed to check for error code and impending error code.