DukeLeto2

Alright guys,

I've got a CEL situation with code P0051 which tells me that's the 02 sensor in Bank 2, Sensor 1. From the diagrams it looks like it comes right off the engine so I'll have to get up in there. Is it doable from a novice point of view or just let the shop do it?

Thanks.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It's very tight in there and depending on where you live and what type of weather your car has seen, it might be a PITA to get out, much less get in there to retrieve it.

What year is your car? Shouldn't be too bad. It's the front sensor on the manifold itself. Grab some PB Blaster and an 02 sensor socket while you're at it.

jared21927

I did this about a month ago. Very easy but i must also mention, my car has stayed down South for its entire life so it wasn't rusted on. Like the post above me says, Just rent the socket set to get it off.

DukeLeto2

Sorry, should have posted, 2002 GLE Automatic 137,000 miles.
I had originally planned on getting the O2 Sensor Socket, a wrench extension, PB Blaster and ramps to do this. If it's off the manifold itself, will I even need to get underneath of it? And I live in Houston, so no snow.

george__

iTrader: (1)

shouldn't be that bad

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

It should not be hard, but it all depends on your skill set and tools available.

DukeLeto2

That chart has been screwing me up. In other charts and from my mechanic and Autozone, P0051 is related to Bank 2 Sensor 1 but this chart it's referring to Bank 1 Sensor 1.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

You're right, we need to fix that diagram.

It's the one on the front bank, in the manifold, like I said earlier.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2003/ec.pdf

EC-175.

Pic of location on EC-180.

Sensor 1, Bank 2.

Vautrin93

I just put headers on my 02 max this weekend and had to go through getting the 02 sensors out and I got them out with a 22 mm wench and pb blaster . The secondaries were siezed in there so i needed to get the threads red hot with a oxy-acetylene torch . If the same happens to you I would say to try a propane torch if you can't get a oxy torch. Watch the wires tho!! Put some anti sieze on the threads of the sensor before you put it back in so if you have to go at it again it will come out easier . Removing the radiator fan will help a lot . Two small nuts at the top I think they're 10mm. Good luck!

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

What kind of headers you got??

Vautrin93

V2 OBX . Only thing I could find. couldn't get my hands on cattmans or hotshots . Run and sound awesome

Unclejunebug

As mentioned, it's a fairly easy replacement. You will need to remove a heat shield to get at it but that's rather simple, and no need to go under the car. That would actually make it more difficult.

I would highly recommend picking up an O2 Thread Chaser to clean out the threads BEFORE installing the new sensor. Often times old sensors do not come out nicely and the threads seize in the bung which can leave mangled bits of thread behind. This makes it very difficult to properly install a new O2 sensor without destroying the threads (speaking from experience on my Max). If you use a chaser make sure to apply anti-seize on the chaser before using.

The general recommended method of removing an old O2 sensor to minimize thread issues is to slightly tighten it first to break up any adhesion. After that, remove the sensor.

DukeLeto2

My replacement sensor is in the mail. One thing that was very concerning this morning was that after a cold start and start driving in first gear and just getting up to speed, my car jerked as if it didn't get enough gas or something. I drove carefully and it happened again, but at very low speeds. It seems to want to do it from idle at a stop and getting up to speed. Is that related you think? Should I start a different thread for that issue?

Vautrin93

Not sure about that you might want to start a new thread but idk I'm new here . If you have a obd2 code reader plug that in see what comes up . If not they're at any autoparts store for cheap I think mine was 50 bucks . Definitely always useful to have .

sea-donkey

Those charts messed me up to. Make sure the one that you buy has the same color plug on end as your too. Search all the sites. I ended up getting a Bosch for $27 off ebay. Cleared the code and I was able to smog my car..

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Screw the chart!!!! Cyl #1 is Bank 1, Cyl #2 is Bank 2!!! Bank 1 is closest to the Firewall! Bank 2 is closest to the radiator.....Are we clear? In a longitudal engine configuration (RWD) viewing from the driver's position the right bank is Bank 1 again which begins with cyl #1, The left bank is bank 2 which begins with cyl #2.....Easy of hell on all V6 Nissans....

DukeLeto2

Done! Blasted it with some PB, got a o2 sensor socket and man, there is not really a lot of room in there to get it out, but we did and that's without taking off the heat shield. Cleared the code and it's been good since. Much appreciated guys!