Hi guys,

I'm in a bad, bad spot. The car is in "limp mode" intermittently, and I need to get it up and running by tomorrow afternoon because of my children!

Okay, here's what happened: Going along fine, car lost power and wouldn't go above 1,000 rpm. I stopped a few times on the way home, shut off car, restarted. Sometimes it would be normal for a second or two, but eventually just rode the four miles home at 1,000 rpm.

While this is going on, for the first minute or so after loss of power I get the battery light, brake light, and ABS light. After about a minute, they all go out, but the ABS light comes on every so often, and I can hear a noise from under the hood like a phone on vibrate - but only when the ABS light is on. (I assume that's the ABS trying to "right itself".

This happened a few months ago, and I bought a new MAF assembly. After I bought it, the problem stopped. SO, when I finally got home, I installed the new MAF, went through the ECU "reset" procedure even though I got no codes. The problem is STILL there!

Once, about a month ago, I got a code for the Bank 2 Camshaft sensor, but that was a one time thing and hasn't recurred.

Please - can anyone tell me what my next step should be? I've got to be mobile for the kids tomorrow after school. Luckily there's an Advance Auto parts maybe 5 miles from here, so if I need parts I can bike or walk. It's faster than the car can go right now.

Not sure if it matters, but when I replaced the MAF I did the "thermistor" swap from the old one.

ALSO: Is there any chance the battery could cause this? A less than helpful girl at Autozone said it could be the battery, though it starts strong every time. I'll admit, though - that since this problem started today - if I rev the engine over 3k the battery light flickers, but so do the brake and ABS lights.


Thanks in advance...I'm really stressed.

Jack

 

I think your car is in fail safe mode and it's related to the camshaft sensor

 

Okay, maybe. However - wouldn't it throw a code?

Jack

 

Not always...

The fsm talks about the frequency in which the failed part has to behave in order for the mil to illuminate....

 

Well, that sucks, but I guess that's okay, too. I have no problem replacing the two camshaft sensors (if I'm doing one, may as well do both, yes?). I just don't want to do it and have no joy, so I want to make sure I replace what needs replacing.

What gets me is that the FSM talks of fail-safe mode as limiting revs to about 2400, but mine is pegged at 1,000. Does THAT indicate any particular part?

Thanks guys, you're helping relieve some of my anxiety. Keep the ideas coming!

Jack

 

Battery and brake lights often mean alternator failure....check your voltage loaded....although doesn't explain loss of power.

When was the last time you changed your plugs?

Is your ride automatic?

Does your od light blink when you start the car?

 

I replaced the alternator about 8 months back, and my voltage is still good. When it was going out last time, the battery and brake lights would come on, but it would be all the time and there was no loss of power.

I haven't changed the plugs in maybe 100k. I've gone longer than that, though, and although I'll get spark rattle, I've not had loss of power.

My ride is a 6 speed manual.

Does anyone know where the crankshaft position sensor is on the 6 speed? I've seen the diagram but not sure what I'm looking at. What I mean is - looking at the pic, am I looking at the driver's or passenger's side?

I think my plan is to replace both cam sensors and the crank sensor.

Last question: is there ANY way this could be battery related? (I may have asked already, but I'm tired so cut me some slack).


Jack

 

I can answer one of your questions. It's definitely not battery related.

 

Thanks! I'll cross that off the list.

I'm being totally serious - it helps knowing what it ISN'T.

Jack

 

Change all six plugs asap at 100k they're probably fouled....

The crank sensors is between the engine and trans(behind the radiator), while the cam sensors are on each bank on top of the engine....

 

rental car time...

 

Change the cam sensor.

A bad cam sensor will cause your exact symptoms, and since you got the code for it there is your answer. No need for guessing.

Perhaps also inspect your coils/plugs at this point.

 

I'll do that! Now, is it best to change both cam sensors? Or just wait till the back one goes out? I'd be happy to let it rest, since that one is the beast to get to compared to the one I coded on.

Jack

 

Many people recommend doing both. But the FSM says to just change the one you got the code for.

I would change both, because if one is bad chances are the other isn't much better. The magnets on those things get burned and warped.

You could probably just do the one for now and get the car working, and plan on doing the other sometime real soon.

 

Do you plan to keep the car long term?

You're already down there and car is aging....

 

Oh yeah...261k on her, and I'll drive her till there's nothing left but the subframe.

 

50/50 of it dying...

 

Well guys, i replaced the MAF, both camshaft position sensors, and the crankshaft position sensor. I still have the exact same problem.

Any other ideas as to what to look at?

Jack

 

did you use OEM products?

 

Jeez, I'm real sorry to hear that.

Only thing I can think of now is your timing, the car may have jumped timing and IIRC it could only be checked with a nissan consult tool for each bank.

Also, look for any vaacum leaks just to rule that out.

 

Replace the alternator that you bought 8 months ago. The voltage regulator inside it is bad. Get an OEM Alt or a quality rebuilt OEM like from NAPA.
The alternator is one of those things where going aftermarket is a bit more risky.

What brand is your alternator?

 

Well, took it to the local shop I trust just to see if they could figure anything out. They seem to think it's the ECU, and I have to take it to Nissan to diagnose it for sure.

The mechanics at the shop said that they were getting codes that didn't apply to anything, the codes kept changing, then went away, etc.

Ugh. If it's the ECU, what kind of money am I looking at?

 

Depends where you get it. If you can find one at a junkyard it could be fairly cheap. Sometimes you can find one here in the classifieds, I've seen a few recently.

Otherwise, you will get raped by the dealership.

 

So if I get one myself, I can swap it out? If so, what do I need to know specifically? Just make sure it's from a 2003? Will I need any programming?

Thanks,
Jack

 

02-03 is the same, both will work. Only issue is programming the keys. Which, unless you can find someone to do it, can only be done at the dealer.

 

poor car

 

Yeah, you said it. I guess it's my fault - I was just telling someone a day or two ago that the Max had been the best car I ever owned, and how even at 261k she's better than some newer cars. That'all still TRUE, mind you, but she's just old and give out....like me.

Jack

 

Classic george with the "poor" comments lol...

I wish you the best of luck on fixing her and getting back on the road

 

Thanks, man. I appreciate it.

 

OK, I know some of these guys are trying to helpful, but don't spent any more $ on the thing until you first rule out the alternator.


Check the voltage being produced by the alternator by checking the battery terminals posts with a volt-ohm meter. Make sure it is in DC mode.


Verify that you are making more than 13vdc. Less than/more than or fluctuations will result in your car doing crazy stuff. Much like the lights flickering on the dash when you rev the motor as you described.


Your ECM can be repaired. Last time I checked a quality repair service will run you about $200. Repairing the ECM will save you from having to have it reflashed at the stealership. Circuitboardmedics.com is worth a look if you do have ECM issues.


If your ECM is toasted, you first need to replace your IACV. It is located on the underside of the throttle body. Bite the bullet & buy the OEM IACV. $250ish if you shop around on the web.


The ECM is located in the center console down by the gas pedal. Two covers on the driver & passenger side have to be removed to access the four bolts which hold the ECM to the bracket. You'll see it once you remove the two plastic covers. Once the bolts are out, remove the main harness connector and the ECM slides out on the passenger side.


Once you have it out, remove the four phillips head screws & have a look inside. You will know if the STA509A chip & traces are burnt.

 

Do not take advice from this person. He means well, but his technical information is......lacking.

 

Well holy s*&^....I checked the voltage again, and it was dead on 14.36, steady...just like this morning. Of course, that's when the car was running "right". When I did it just now, I revved the engine up and forced it into "fail safe" or whatever it's called, and the voltage hit 18.9, then the car dropped to about 1k rpm. Then it jumped around - 14 volts, 15, 18, 16, et cetera.

Yes, the alternator I put in was an Autozone special. Mea culpa, live and learn.

So, 4thGenTuner...if it IS the alternator causing problems, and not a computer problem causing voltage spikes, do you think there's a way to safely disconnect the alternator so that I can drive all the way to Nissan without the voltage spikes forcing me to "limp"? If so, how would you suggest I do that?

Oh, Nissan's only 12 miles, maybe 14 minutes from me, so I know I can make it that far without an alternator...I did it many days before finally replacing the last one.

Thanks man, truly. I HOPE you're as smart as I think you are!

 

I'm fairly certain that the alternator is your issue. You should be seeing 14.1-14.7 vdc with the engine running.


Your alternator has a voltage regulator in it that keeps the output voltage within a particular range (14.1-14.7vdc). This and the brushes are the usual suspects when issues like the ones you described earlier arise.


I an not aware of the implications associated with driving around with out the alternator. The main serpentine belt drives other stuff besides the alternator. Taking the alternator out of the circuit by unplugging its harness isn't a good idea either. I'm not sure I would try that.


You could always just limp it there.


If you have the tools to remove it why not just swap it yourself?


The best replacement alternator is going to be OEM. A junkyard might have one or you can get one from the dealership. NAPA has a pretty good reputation for their Nissan alternators too. Just stay away from advance/autozone/o'reillys etc.


A wise man once told me that being smart isn't always about knowing the answer, but knowing where to look for it.


Good luck man.

 

Many thanks to 4thGenTuner - after checking my voltage at the battery, I found that when the car was running properly, I was at 14.3 Volts; when the car dropped to 1000 rpm, maximum, it was because the voltage was spiking as high as 19 Volts! It jumped all around between 13 and 19. I replaced the alternator with an OEM Nissan one this time, and the problem is gone.

I waited two days to say anything just to make sure I wasn't going to jinx myself!

Side note: Before doing this, I replaced the MAF, camshaft sensors (since I had a code on one) and the crankshaft sensor (just because doing all three seemed prudent). Now, at 261,657 miles, my car literally almost runs like new. I had weird shifting problems, too (6 speed manual), which have all but disappeared now. I think my timing was so screwed up by old sensors that maybe I was having sync issues. At first I thought this was all in my head, but after two days I can definitely say that the car is truly shifting better. The previous sensors had over 160k on them.

What started all this? I replaced my alternator last year with a non-OEM Advance Auto remanufactured one. BIG mistake. The $200 I saved originally cost me another $500 last week. Don't be me - some aftermarket stuff is fine, but the alternator apparently is NOT one of them!

Thanks, 4thGenTuner...you saved me a LOT of grief!

Jack
Richmond

 

What is it with these cars and utter crap aftermarket support?

This is a NISSAN yet there's so many issues with Alternators, Axles, Ignition coils etc. It's like you own some kind of exotic import ><

It's also too widespread to be considered one time things, for example this forum tells folks to get only OEM or Hitachi ignition coils

 

You do realize that the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor are both recall items from the dealership, right? I got mine done last year for free while they took care of that recall and another one for an airbag. Good luck!

 

With a car this old the recall was probably already done

 

Wow. Congrats on finally fixing her!!

I'm very glad that all my replacement parts have been OEM, except a PCV valve and radiator, but I hope at least those things will be OK.

 

See that's so stupid. This isn't some fancy exotic it should be able to accept and work with aftermarket parts like Toyota, Honda, Acura and Lexus cars

 

To answer as many posts as possible:

- Yes, I agree - it's insane that certain aftermarket parts for Nissans seem sub par. After I replaced my alternator the first time with the aftermarket one, I saw SO many posts about bad alternators for our cars. Until this, I'd never known aftermarket to be such a huge problem.

- Yes, all three sensors (cam and crank) were part of a recall. I had mine done at just under 100k when I took it in for some front end work.

- I have used aftermarket parts before, even on my Maxima, without any ill effects. Oh well, if this one lasts as long as the first, I'll be at a half million miles and not really need to worry about it.

Thanks, guys!

Jack