Need help - emergency!
03-20-2015 | 08:49 AM
#41
Many thanks to 4thGenTuner - after checking my voltage at the battery, I found that when the car was running properly, I was at 14.3 Volts; when the car dropped to 1000 rpm, maximum, it was because the voltage was spiking as high as 19 Volts! It jumped all around between 13 and 19. I replaced the alternator with an OEM Nissan one this time, and the problem is gone.
I waited two days to say anything just to make sure I wasn't going to jinx myself!
Side note: Before doing this, I replaced the MAF, camshaft sensors (since I had a code on one) and the crankshaft sensor (just because doing all three seemed prudent). Now, at 261,657 miles, my car literally almost runs like new. I had weird shifting problems, too (6 speed manual), which have all but disappeared now. I think my timing was so screwed up by old sensors that maybe I was having sync issues. At first I thought this was all in my head, but after two days I can definitely say that the car is truly shifting better. The previous sensors had over 160k on them.
What started all this? I replaced my alternator last year with a non-OEM Advance Auto remanufactured one. BIG mistake. The $200 I saved originally cost me another $500 last week. Don't be me - some aftermarket stuff is fine, but the alternator apparently is NOT one of them!
Thanks, 4thGenTuner...you saved me a LOT of grief!
Jack
Richmond
I waited two days to say anything just to make sure I wasn't going to jinx myself!
Side note: Before doing this, I replaced the MAF, camshaft sensors (since I had a code on one) and the crankshaft sensor (just because doing all three seemed prudent). Now, at 261,657 miles, my car literally almost runs like new. I had weird shifting problems, too (6 speed manual), which have all but disappeared now. I think my timing was so screwed up by old sensors that maybe I was having sync issues. At first I thought this was all in my head, but after two days I can definitely say that the car is truly shifting better. The previous sensors had over 160k on them.
What started all this? I replaced my alternator last year with a non-OEM Advance Auto remanufactured one. BIG mistake. The $200 I saved originally cost me another $500 last week. Don't be me - some aftermarket stuff is fine, but the alternator apparently is NOT one of them!
Thanks, 4thGenTuner...you saved me a LOT of grief!
Jack
Richmond
Glad to hear you are back on the road! That's always a good feeling!
No need to thank me man. Most of us have been in your position with our cars. Its those of us who have solved these problems in the past that can share our info with others who are facing similar situations.
To be fair, someone else actually called it before I came along. His post was ignored and drowned out by other misinformation. (I'm looking at you george_).
Take care Jack & happy motoring!
03-20-2015 | 09:02 AM
#42
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 314
Aw, man! 4thGenTuner was right...you called "alternator" before he did. Well, Thanks to you BOTH. Very, very helpful.
One last question (for today anyway) - what's the consensus on cleaning the dark deposits from the butterfly on what I *think* is the throttle body? When replacing the MAF I noticed that my rubber accordion tube had a huge slit in it. Found a good, clean replacement at the parts yard for $1 (thank you very much), but I go to put it on and see that there's a lot of dark grime on the edges of the butterfly valve just behind where the tube attaches.
Car seems to run okay, as far as I can tell, so should I clean it or leave it be?
Thanks,
Jack
One last question (for today anyway) - what's the consensus on cleaning the dark deposits from the butterfly on what I *think* is the throttle body? When replacing the MAF I noticed that my rubber accordion tube had a huge slit in it. Found a good, clean replacement at the parts yard for $1 (thank you very much), but I go to put it on and see that there's a lot of dark grime on the edges of the butterfly valve just behind where the tube attaches.
Car seems to run okay, as far as I can tell, so should I clean it or leave it be?
Thanks,
Jack
03-20-2015 | 09:16 AM
#43
Glad to hear you are back on the road! That's always a good feeling!
No need to thank me man. Most of us have been in your position with our cars. Its those of us who have solved these problems in the past that can share our info with others who are facing similar situations.
To be fair, someone else actually called it before I came along. His post was ignored and drowned out by other misinformation. (I'm looking at you george_).
Take care Jack & happy motoring!
03-20-2015 | 09:16 AM
#44
Aw, man! 4thGenTuner was right...you called "alternator" before he did. Well, Thanks to you BOTH. Very, very helpful.
One last question (for today anyway) - what's the consensus on cleaning the dark deposits from the butterfly on what I *think* is the throttle body? When replacing the MAF I noticed that my rubber accordion tube had a huge slit in it. Found a good, clean replacement at the parts yard for $1 (thank you very much), but I go to put it on and see that there's a lot of dark grime on the edges of the butterfly valve just behind where the tube attaches.
Car seems to run okay, as far as I can tell, so should I clean it or leave it be?
Thanks,
Jack
One last question (for today anyway) - what's the consensus on cleaning the dark deposits from the butterfly on what I *think* is the throttle body? When replacing the MAF I noticed that my rubber accordion tube had a huge slit in it. Found a good, clean replacement at the parts yard for $1 (thank you very much), but I go to put it on and see that there's a lot of dark grime on the edges of the butterfly valve just behind where the tube attaches.
Car seems to run okay, as far as I can tell, so should I clean it or leave it be?
Thanks,
Jack
03-20-2015 | 09:29 AM
#45
Aw, man! 4thGenTuner was right...you called "alternator" before he did. Well, Thanks to you BOTH. Very, very helpful.
One last question (for today anyway) - what's the consensus on cleaning the dark deposits from the butterfly on what I *think* is the throttle body? When replacing the MAF I noticed that my rubber accordion tube had a huge slit in it. Found a good, clean replacement at the parts yard for $1 (thank you very much), but I go to put it on and see that there's a lot of dark grime on the edges of the butterfly valve just behind where the tube attaches.
Car seems to run okay, as far as I can tell, so should I clean it or leave it be?
Thanks,
Jack
One last question (for today anyway) - what's the consensus on cleaning the dark deposits from the butterfly on what I *think* is the throttle body? When replacing the MAF I noticed that my rubber accordion tube had a huge slit in it. Found a good, clean replacement at the parts yard for $1 (thank you very much), but I go to put it on and see that there's a lot of dark grime on the edges of the butterfly valve just behind where the tube attaches.
Car seems to run okay, as far as I can tell, so should I clean it or leave it be?
Thanks,
Jack
Yep that's the post I was referring to.
As far as your throttle body, I would suggest you read through the stickies at the top of the 5th gen section. If that doesn't satisfy try searching using the little "Search Forum" button in the upper right of the board. I would think its okay to clean, just don't force the butterfly valve open. I seem to remember doing that at some point & regretting it.
I strongly suggest you search for "throttle body coolant bypass". This simple rerouting of coolant hoses will save you some headache & $$ in the ECM/IACV department......ask me how I know lol.
03-20-2015 | 09:34 AM
#46
03-20-2015 | 11:17 AM
#49
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 314
Hmm...
03-20-2015 | 02:06 PM
#50
Just to help the community!
She's good 4GenTuner thanks for asking
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