Brakes aren't stopping as hard as I'd like.
#1
Brakes aren't stopping as hard as I'd like.
The rear pads and rotors are probably 1.5 years old. The font pads and rotors are about 4 months old. Both have akebono pads on. When I brake hard, I don't feel that point where the brakes "catch" and car sort of throws you forward into your belt. The car brakes pretty hard but it's a long gradual stop. I feel like it's a tad bit unsafe if there is ever a time where I have to slam on the brakes. I'm not confident they will stop me in the shortest distance possible.
Even my dad's 1994 bmw has very good stopping power and his front rotors are rusted to **** with a huge lip from uneven wear.
I'm not sure if I have air in the lines, could that be it?
Even my dad's 1994 bmw has very good stopping power and his front rotors are rusted to **** with a huge lip from uneven wear.
I'm not sure if I have air in the lines, could that be it?
#2
Maxima brakes suck, thats just the bottom line. Most BMWs are designed differently due to the speed that usually travel at. Our E60 has massively thick, damn near 14" rotors on every corner, it has brake cooling ducts, runs DOT 4 fluid from the factory. Yea, it stops hard despite weighing almost 4000lbs, because it is designed to pull itself down quickly from very high speeds, repeatedly. Most likely you put a jack under that BMW you are going to find engineering like what i have described. So comparing the 2 is kind of apples to oranges.
Here are your options:
1st: a mild brake refresh: New fluid and lines, better brake pads. Cheap.
2nd: An entire brake refresh. Rebuild or buy new calipers, lines, rotors, new fluid, get even more grabby brake pads. Your wallet wont like you but you'll be ok.
3rd: Upgrade your calipers, Q45 w/Cobra rotors or 350z upfront, the rear 12.3" rotor upgrade, pads, fluid, lines. Can get expensive, quickly.
Here are your options:
1st: a mild brake refresh: New fluid and lines, better brake pads. Cheap.
2nd: An entire brake refresh. Rebuild or buy new calipers, lines, rotors, new fluid, get even more grabby brake pads. Your wallet wont like you but you'll be ok.
3rd: Upgrade your calipers, Q45 w/Cobra rotors or 350z upfront, the rear 12.3" rotor upgrade, pads, fluid, lines. Can get expensive, quickly.
#3
Try bleeding the brakes. Air in the lines/old fluid can really make the brakes feel crappy.
I have Akebono pads w/Carquest rotors up front and love it. Panic stops are smooth, linear and with immediate grabbing power. In our cars, I have noticed that braking power diminishes significantly when the brakes are only 50% worn. I use ceramic pads only and at 30% life remaining, the stopping power is so reduced it's scary. It's especially apparent when going down a driveway with a depression; really got to mash on the brakes to prevent rolling. Never really noticed this with other cars I've owned. Maximas are really hard on brakes it seems.
I have Akebono pads w/Carquest rotors up front and love it. Panic stops are smooth, linear and with immediate grabbing power. In our cars, I have noticed that braking power diminishes significantly when the brakes are only 50% worn. I use ceramic pads only and at 30% life remaining, the stopping power is so reduced it's scary. It's especially apparent when going down a driveway with a depression; really got to mash on the brakes to prevent rolling. Never really noticed this with other cars I've owned. Maximas are really hard on brakes it seems.
Last edited by mclasser; 10-19-2015 at 06:08 PM.
#4
I know from personal experience that our brakes can lock up the front wheels in panic stops. Does you ABS system activate when you hit the brakes really hard? If not, consider: a) Replacing the brake fluid, b) Install a different set of rotors/calipers, c) Replace your brake hoses.
#5
I've had good experienced with SS brake lines. You may want to consider that along with the other suggestions like refreshing the pads and rotors. A brake bleed with some quality fluid may work wonders as well.
#6
Do a fluid flush, hawk hps pads, AND clean/lube the pins. No one ever lubes the goddamn guide pins! Guess what? THEY'RE RUSTED! Half the damn brakes I do have frozen calipers and the people don't have a clue.
Also, the rear pistons and ebrake thingy are known to freeze up. If you can't get the piston in without really fighting it, it's probably junk.
Pro tip: DO NOT squeeze the pistons in without opening the bleeder! While many people may not have an issue, I have experienced a mushy pedal from doing this. Before that problem I had read about it ...I found out after doing a 4 wheel job LOL. I'm a believer, now.
Pads from the store are junk in comparison. The "gold" ones are okay, but there's no comparison to hawk. Stock pads are a joke (scarily unsafe).
While this isn't a fair comparison, I can stop from 130 to 0 with 300zx bbk and hawk pads with no brake fade and immediately make another high speed stop with no fade, too.
Even with stock calipers there's a huge difference with good rotors and pads. I had a 2000 that could throw you through the windshield (albeit with super sticky yokohamas).
Driving rental cars on the highway is scary. I don't recommend it. After 2 seconds (or less really) they start fading big time. That's a terrible feeling when you're trying to brake hard.
Also, the rear pistons and ebrake thingy are known to freeze up. If you can't get the piston in without really fighting it, it's probably junk.
Pro tip: DO NOT squeeze the pistons in without opening the bleeder! While many people may not have an issue, I have experienced a mushy pedal from doing this. Before that problem I had read about it ...I found out after doing a 4 wheel job LOL. I'm a believer, now.
Pads from the store are junk in comparison. The "gold" ones are okay, but there's no comparison to hawk. Stock pads are a joke (scarily unsafe).
While this isn't a fair comparison, I can stop from 130 to 0 with 300zx bbk and hawk pads with no brake fade and immediately make another high speed stop with no fade, too.
Even with stock calipers there's a huge difference with good rotors and pads. I had a 2000 that could throw you through the windshield (albeit with super sticky yokohamas).
Driving rental cars on the highway is scary. I don't recommend it. After 2 seconds (or less really) they start fading big time. That's a terrible feeling when you're trying to brake hard.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-20-2015 at 06:27 AM.
#7
I have the akebono and they are awesome. You might check your tires because they have a ton to do with how well cars brake. Unless your pads are quite worn, it's not them causing the concerns. My pads bite like a snake. If hawks are that awesome I can't say that I would like them. Mine are sweet. Love akebono.
#8
I have the akebono and they are awesome. You might check your tires because they have a ton to do with how well cars brake. Unless your pads are quite worn, it's not them causing the concerns. My pads bite like a snake. If hawks are that awesome I can't say that I would like them. Mine are sweet. Love akebono.
But if you go to the store and pay 20 bucks, I think you're going to get what you pay for.
#10
Good thread, another slightly different topic about brakes. My brakes aren't grabbing THAT hard either but that's not what my post is about. Have any of you experiences a jutter/grinding sound when you guys mash on the brakes to a complete stop? The sound doesn't come in until about 20-0 mph it seems like. Every time I hear it I never know what it is, it's not pleasant however. Any ideas?
#11
Good thread, another slightly different topic about brakes. My brakes aren't grabbing THAT hard either but that's not what my post is about. Have any of you experiences a jutter/grinding sound when you guys mash on the brakes to a complete stop? The sound doesn't come in until about 20-0 mph it seems like. Every time I hear it I never know what it is, it's not pleasant however. Any ideas?
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