Car's got 105K miles and AFAIK, the pan's never been dropped. I want to get in there and clean the magnets and screen but have some questions:

-Is it necessary to replace all the pan bolts or can I reuse them?
-I know the screen's not removable so will spraying it with brake cleaner suffice?
-Does the new pan gasket need to be from Nissan or will aftermarket work fine?
-Is gasket adhesive or RTV needed to prevent the gasket from moving around?

This job doesn't seem too bad as the pan and bolts are easily accessible. Any tips would be appreciated, though. Thanks.

 

I didn't replace my bolts.
The screen is removable, couple bolts. You can buy a new (screen) at most auto part places, and save the cleaning elbow grease I actually have an extra one lying around.
For the gasket, it's a no brainer to spend the 15-18$ gasket. Some palces sell these as s kit, gasket and "filter". The screen actually bolts to the tranny itself, not the pan.
No RTV or adhesive is needed, just a little luck, not a bad job at all.

 

Where does the luck come into play? I've had a gasket lying around with plans to drop the pan but if there's luck involved I may skip it. Can you elaborate please?

 

No just might take a couple tries, nothing major. Just thread some from each end since there are a boat load of them and so the pan doesn't slap your dome. Common sense really once you get under there.

 

What are you talking about? It's not two bolts, it's like 20 bolts or so (I know, been down there). The bolts differ in length and you have to install each one in the proper place. I removed my pan, cleaned it, and decided not to remove the screen - too much risk.

 

Don't do the screen it's not so fine it catches particles it's just a fine screen.
You won't see anything on it I'm sure. Good time to buy an inline filter

 

He said couple not two and then down more he says lots of them i'm guessing you saw the two blue circles...

 

in his defense, a couple is two by definition... the lots of them was referring to pan replacement, not the screen

either way looks to be about 11 bolts

 

You can reuse the pan bolts. I've reused mine up to 3 times.

No need to remove or replace the filter. It really isn't a "filter" but more of a screen for large particles or items. You'll know what I mean once you get the pan off and shine a flashlight in the hole where the screen is located. You really don't even need to clean it as you won't see anything on it. If you see something your tranny is in some trouble...

You can use a gasket from aftermarket auto places, direct fit, and equivalent or better material than OEM.

Re-installing pan and gasket isn't that bad, no RTV needed. Just use the corner bolts no the pan as a guide and thread them in only a couple turns. Do the same with the rest of the bolts and you'll be fine. Your arm may hurt or get sore from the angle, but no biggie...take breaks and take your time.

Oh...use some safety glasses or goggles because you'll need to get your face under the pan for a bit as you align the pan bolts.

Easy peasey...

 

Last time i dropped the pan i didnt know how much fluid to put back in. This lead to starting the car with low fluid. I checked the level right away and added more. This probably damaged the transmission as i had to replace it 6 months later. It was slipping. Be careful. .

 

Errraaa... What did you do with your old fluid in the first place? Don't tell me you just drained it on the ground???

 

Nahh it went into a big oil catch container. No way to measure. Still made a mess on the ground tho ugh

 

Yup, I was referring to the "filter" bolts as a couple, point being in contrast it's not as many as the pan. You get the picture though. My bad, didn't specify screen vs pan bolts. Pictures are worth 1000 words.

I'm also on my 3rd round. But definitely replace the gasket. I also agree, but my "kit" came with a "filter". Hence why i have one lying in my toolbox, as in I didn't put it in.

I did the same thing, car would barely move. But that was like 70k miles ago and 3+ years, must not have been as severe as your situation.
Good thing is to measure as you remove using an oil catch container, but still, best thing is to check the fluid the suggested way and turn car on, let chill, shift through each of the gears, recheck level repeat


Owait ... I guess I went gangster and did put new bolts ... Original statement still stands though, I reused the OEM's about 4-5x.

 

#ThugLife.

 

what is the best fluid to use tranny fluid to use? Will dexron 3 still be suitable?

 

Great thread. Thanks a lot for your input, guys! I'll keep the old bolts and screen. Since the bolts are self-sealing, do I need to do anything as far as cleaning them goes or will just a simple wipe with a rag do?

 

MaxLife ATF is great. Also throw in a bottle of Lubegard Red. These trannies are hard on fluid so a syn ATF like Maxlife plus LG is the way to go.

 

I did my trany service and I did use the castrol import fluid,what you guys thoughts on that fluid-and what about a external trany cooler on our cars,does anyone done that on their 5,5 gen Maxima's?

 

Amsoil is the best.

I have Castrol import in my DD its a perfectly fine ATF MaxLife is good too though I remember one of them makes the AT shift a little slower (soft).

An external cooler is good insurance. Get one with a bypass valve (B&M) so you don't have to worry about overcooling.

 

I pretty sure that's what I sued since I had to drain/refill a few times (don't ask) I had to go to AutoZone and pick some up since the burglars were closed.

Oh yeah, but I wouldn't recommend using the OG bolts more than 3x, I think that might have been why mine sprung a leak. But, either way, not a tough job in any sense.

 

External transmission cooler is great insurance. When I had my maxima the original transmission was still going strong after 285K miles. I had an external cooler, valvebody mod, and synthetic ATF. I only had to change the solenoids one time.

The synthetic ATF I used was Mobil 1. To get the real benefit you have to change all of the fluid. When you drop the pan you only get about half to two-thirds of fluid. You'll need to do a flush to get the rest. Or...just drain and fill, drain and fill, drain and fill a number of times.

 

What made you change the solenoids? I ask because my tranny is acting funny and I can't decide if i should swap out the solenoids or the TCM.

 

I had moderate 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 slipping. I added seafoam trans and it pretty much eliminated the 1 to 2 slip. The 2 to 3 slip still persisted. I planned on dropping the pan and checking pan and magnets. I bought solenoids just in case I didn't find anything in the pan or magnets.

Sure enough, nothing in pan or magnets so I changed out the solenoids. It still slipped a bit from 2 to 3, but after about a week it went away and was good as new.

Nissan has a TSB about this for 2k and 2k1 Maximas. I think the TCM is the last part to throw at it, solenoids first.

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB00-039a.pdf

 

Thanks that's exactly whats happening to me. Waiting on some spare change to grab some solenoids then. If anyone knows a reasonable online seller for a solenoid pack for an 01 please let me know!

 

Try rockauto.com: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=467&jpid=1

 

Tri-Cities online price is decent for OEM...albeit about $150 more than rockauto.

http://www.nissanpartsasap.com/nissa...artcode=31940N

 

Pm sent. Whatever you decide go with oem to avoid problems.

 

I agree...stick with OEM on the solenoids.

 

amazing thread ! just saying., thanks all and org.

 

I pulled the blue bolts doing a solenoid change. I cant get the top left one back in. What do I do?

 

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you, but when you get this settled, and are in the mood, I'm curious as to why you removed something labeled "Do not remove"

 

did this service today - 2001 i30 - 83k miles
the magnets were holding so much metal that it oozed off in a slimy mess once touched, they basically could not hold any more, cleaned everything up good
changed the filter and gasket, it had some small debris but not much, got the WIX58602 kit from rockauto, came with a rubber gasket
was lucky I guess since no bolts were stuck or anything, bolted everything back in and put the same ATF back in
it's still somewhat pink and smells sweet, not burned at all so i figure it's still good
helpful video :

 

I replaced the pan (since it had a deep scrape in it from being sideswiped by a Jeep over a concrete median) the filter and the gasket with the WIX58602 kit and the gasket failed after only a few weeks (<1K miles). It started leaking about 30 miles from home on the highway.




I used a Fel-Pro TOS18708 gasket this time. This was the last Wix anything that I'll ever use again. I have had nothing but trouble with their filters the past couple of years and now gaskets. They used to be a great brand.

I used 6 quarts of Eneos® - Import Model N Automatic Transmission Fluid to refill.

 

I have a hard time seeing how a rubber piece is supposed to split like that, it looks like it was cut apart by a utility knife
And the Felpro looks like it's made out of cardboard like the one that was on there prior to the replacement, it's a giant pita to remove it after a few years.

The most important thing is to torque the bolts to the proper spec and follow the manufacturer's instructions

those are inch pounds not foot !

 

Well if it was cut by a utility knife then they managed to do so without disturbing the adhesive while dropping the pan. Maybe gremlins dropped the pan, cut the gasket and then replaced the adhesive and all the machine screws that hold the pan on. Naaahhhh, Wix has just started producing lower quality parts in the last few years. Checkout other forums as well on the problems with their oil filters.

Oh and I see the torque specs in SI units as well. Newton-metres are newton-metres, no confusion there.

 

i know old thread but i'm trying to change the solenoids and i can't get that one top bolt on top of the solenoid thats close to the electrical plug. all other olenoids have been installed. i can't get a small socket in far enough to reach the bolt.
does anyone have any tips or do i have to remove the vb to get to this one bolt.
if so, anyone have a diagram of exactly which bolts need to be removed to lower the vb.

thanks

 

Yes you have to remove the valve body in order for you to get to that solenoid. When you remove the valve body a return spring comes down with it. Just remember to put the return spring back when putting the valve body back in.

These are bolts you will need to remove to get the valve body off.