Vibration from a CV joint? Need input
#1
Vibration from a CV joint? Need input
Hi guys,
The background:
- My '03 Max has just over 272,000 miles on her.
- CV joints/axles have never been replaced.
- Just over a month ago at the state inspection, guy told me I had a tear in the boot. I thought, "I'll get around to it."
- Three days ago, hit a mid-sized pothole at around 10 mph, and shortly after on the same day noticed a sort of vibration at speeds over about 30 mph.
- The vibration seems to vary in intensity with speed, but it's not as harsh as an out of balance tire.
- Took it to the shop today and they said that my right front tire (same side with torn boot) had separated belts, needed to be replaced. The tires were all just about slick, so bought 4 new ones, had it aligned.
- The vibration is still there, exactly as before. I marked the rims before they took it in, and the right rims are now on the left side, so that isn't it.
SO here's my question: can a bad CV joint cause vibration like this? I did the only test I remember from the old '80s CV joints, which was to take it to a parking lot and drive in circles as tight as she'd go, left and right, forward and back, and there's NO popping or clicking. I did hear some slight groaning, but that *could* be my old busted struts.
So I'm looking for input before having the axle replaced. Do you guys - obviously more expert than I - think it's the axle, or is there another likely cause?
I've shifted into neutral (manual trans) at highway speed and the vibration doesn't change. I've sat parked and slowly revved the engine to see if I had a serious misfire - nope, smooth through all RPMs. Had the clutch replaced maybe 10,000 miles ago, fluid change, and all has been well.
Okay, that's it.
Thanks!
Jack
The background:
- My '03 Max has just over 272,000 miles on her.
- CV joints/axles have never been replaced.
- Just over a month ago at the state inspection, guy told me I had a tear in the boot. I thought, "I'll get around to it."
- Three days ago, hit a mid-sized pothole at around 10 mph, and shortly after on the same day noticed a sort of vibration at speeds over about 30 mph.
- The vibration seems to vary in intensity with speed, but it's not as harsh as an out of balance tire.
- Took it to the shop today and they said that my right front tire (same side with torn boot) had separated belts, needed to be replaced. The tires were all just about slick, so bought 4 new ones, had it aligned.
- The vibration is still there, exactly as before. I marked the rims before they took it in, and the right rims are now on the left side, so that isn't it.
SO here's my question: can a bad CV joint cause vibration like this? I did the only test I remember from the old '80s CV joints, which was to take it to a parking lot and drive in circles as tight as she'd go, left and right, forward and back, and there's NO popping or clicking. I did hear some slight groaning, but that *could* be my old busted struts.
So I'm looking for input before having the axle replaced. Do you guys - obviously more expert than I - think it's the axle, or is there another likely cause?
I've shifted into neutral (manual trans) at highway speed and the vibration doesn't change. I've sat parked and slowly revved the engine to see if I had a serious misfire - nope, smooth through all RPMs. Had the clutch replaced maybe 10,000 miles ago, fluid change, and all has been well.
Okay, that's it.
Thanks!
Jack
#2
Axles can cause vibration and still not click when turning. The vibration usually happens under acceleration though. I guess they could be bad enough to cause vibration when coasting but you'd be getting a lot of vibration under acceleration too.
I'm having a hard time believing the car has never had axles swapped. How long have you had it?
I'd start looking at other suspension components. Tie rod ends and control arm bushings would be the first I'd check.
Any other clunking or strange noises? Hows it feel when braking?
I'm having a hard time believing the car has never had axles swapped. How long have you had it?
I'd start looking at other suspension components. Tie rod ends and control arm bushings would be the first I'd check.
Any other clunking or strange noises? Hows it feel when braking?
#3
Don't believe the axles are the problem, especially when the vibration continues when in neutral. Just an FYI-The daughter's 2000 Maxima has never had the joints/axles replaced 252,000 miles.
Even though the wheels were placed on the left side, there could still be a bent wheel that causes the vibration, but would hope that when the tires were purchased, the installer would notice if there were a problem.
Narrow down the vibration, front, steering wheel, or rear, in the seats. if it's in the front, switch the tires to the back and if in the back, switch to front and see if the vibration follows, or stops as a bent wheel is best on rear.
Even though the wheels were placed on the left side, there could still be a bent wheel that causes the vibration, but would hope that when the tires were purchased, the installer would notice if there were a problem.
Narrow down the vibration, front, steering wheel, or rear, in the seats. if it's in the front, switch the tires to the back and if in the back, switch to front and see if the vibration follows, or stops as a bent wheel is best on rear.
#5
Axles can cause vibration and still not click when turning. The vibration usually happens under acceleration though. I guess they could be bad enough to cause vibration when coasting but you'd be getting a lot of vibration under acceleration too.
I'm having a hard time believing the car has never had axles swapped. How long have you had it?
I'd start looking at other suspension components. Tie rod ends and control arm bushings would be the first I'd check.
Any other clunking or strange noises? Hows it feel when braking?
I'm having a hard time believing the car has never had axles swapped. How long have you had it?
I'd start looking at other suspension components. Tie rod ends and control arm bushings would be the first I'd check.
Any other clunking or strange noises? Hows it feel when braking?
Hi Derrick2k2SE,
It does vibrate under acceleration, but I'm not sure if it does it more or less than coasting. I'll check it out today. I've owned the car since new - 31 miles, only owner.
I've had both inner tie rod ends replaced in the last month, sway bar ends too. Control arm bushings - I haven't checked or really even thought about.
Braking feels absolutely normal. Some of the vibration transfers through the steering wheel, but it's minimal - not at all like when the rotor warp. That's what's weird - I can almost always tell a side-to-side vibration (like rotors) or an up-and-down vibration (like an out of round tire, bent rim, bad strut), but this isn't like those....seems to be located at the front right, same as the axle. It's worth noting that no one else in the car seems to notice it, but then again, they haven't been driving it since '03.
As for other noises, there is one noise it has been making for months. My ex-wife's driveway is pretty steep so I have to back out at an angle to avoid dragging the muffler; if I turn the wheel too sharply to the left while backing out and hit the little rain gutter at the bottom even the slightest bit too fast, there's this God-awful metal-on-metal sounding screech, creak or something.
Besids that, there are tiny "wiggle squeaks" that sometimes make themselves known in the front clip or fender area, but those aren't driveline issues, it's fender fitment. I can tell because the sound *sometimes* happens when driving on rough road, but always happens when I close the door too hard. So far I have it narrowed down to the front left fender somewhere, and I know it's a loose bolt holding overlapping sheet metal together, just haven't found the damn thing yet.
#6
Don't believe the axles are the problem, especially when the vibration continues when in neutral. Just an FYI-The daughter's 2000 Maxima has never had the joints/axles replaced 252,000 miles.
Even though the wheels were placed on the left side, there could still be a bent wheel that causes the vibration, but would hope that when the tires were purchased, the installer would notice if there were a problem.
Narrow down the vibration, front, steering wheel, or rear, in the seats. if it's in the front, switch the tires to the back and if in the back, switch to front and see if the vibration follows, or stops as a bent wheel is best on rear.
Even though the wheels were placed on the left side, there could still be a bent wheel that causes the vibration, but would hope that when the tires were purchased, the installer would notice if there were a problem.
Narrow down the vibration, front, steering wheel, or rear, in the seats. if it's in the front, switch the tires to the back and if in the back, switch to front and see if the vibration follows, or stops as a bent wheel is best on rear.
Thanks man,
Jack
#7
Will do. I'd thought of that, but since there's no vibration, noise, or shifting around when revving just the engine, or when first putting into gear or changing gears, that seemed unlikely.
I've even shut the engine off completely going downhill, and the shudder seems to remain.
Thanks, Mattx.
I've even shut the engine off completely going downhill, and the shudder seems to remain.
Thanks, Mattx.
#8
That's an impressive ownership run. I've had mine and my wifes since 04 with over 500,000 between the two of them so I know what you mean about being sensitive.
It sounds like you're talking more about something having "play" instead of being out of balance (wheels) or warped (brakes).
The problem is that at this age/mileage we could just start naming suspension components and most will be worn out.
I would look at the outer tie rod ends. They're easy, cheap and past their normal service life on your car. They can cause vibration or shuttering.
Another thing most people don't think about are the upper strut mounts. They allow the top of strut to turn with the wheel and can create play when worn out.
I would say look at anything even remotely connected to the steering system. I doubt it's motor or tranny mounts.
I wouldn't rule out the axles either. In fact, I'd still be looking pretty hard at them now that you've shared a little more. You probably have play in the joints. The axles still turn the same speed as the wheels whether or not you're in gear so coasting doesn't isolate them. In fact, taking the tension off them may change the vibration.
Try this, feel for a change in vibration between acceleration, coasting and gearing down. This will change the type of force being applied to the worn joints so the vibration may feel different.
It sounds like you're talking more about something having "play" instead of being out of balance (wheels) or warped (brakes).
The problem is that at this age/mileage we could just start naming suspension components and most will be worn out.
I would look at the outer tie rod ends. They're easy, cheap and past their normal service life on your car. They can cause vibration or shuttering.
Another thing most people don't think about are the upper strut mounts. They allow the top of strut to turn with the wheel and can create play when worn out.
I would say look at anything even remotely connected to the steering system. I doubt it's motor or tranny mounts.
I wouldn't rule out the axles either. In fact, I'd still be looking pretty hard at them now that you've shared a little more. You probably have play in the joints. The axles still turn the same speed as the wheels whether or not you're in gear so coasting doesn't isolate them. In fact, taking the tension off them may change the vibration.
Try this, feel for a change in vibration between acceleration, coasting and gearing down. This will change the type of force being applied to the worn joints so the vibration may feel different.
#9
That's an impressive ownership run. I've had mine and my wifes since 04 with over 500,000 between the two of them so I know what you mean about being sensitive.
It sounds like you're talking more about something having "play" instead of being out of balance (wheels) or warped (brakes).
The problem is that at this age/mileage we could just start naming suspension components and most will be worn out.
I would look at the outer tie rod ends. They're easy, cheap and past their normal service life on your car. They can cause vibration or shuttering.
Another thing most people don't think about are the upper strut mounts. They allow the top of strut to turn with the wheel and can create play when worn out.
I would say look at anything even remotely connected to the steering system. I doubt it's motor or tranny mounts.
I wouldn't rule out the axles either. In fact, I'd still be looking pretty hard at them now that you've shared a little more. You probably have play in the joints. The axles still turn the same speed as the wheels whether or not you're in gear so coasting doesn't isolate them. In fact, taking the tension off them may change the vibration.
Try this, feel for a change in vibration between acceleration, coasting and gearing down. This will change the type of force being applied to the worn joints so the vibration may feel different.
It sounds like you're talking more about something having "play" instead of being out of balance (wheels) or warped (brakes).
The problem is that at this age/mileage we could just start naming suspension components and most will be worn out.
I would look at the outer tie rod ends. They're easy, cheap and past their normal service life on your car. They can cause vibration or shuttering.
Another thing most people don't think about are the upper strut mounts. They allow the top of strut to turn with the wheel and can create play when worn out.
I would say look at anything even remotely connected to the steering system. I doubt it's motor or tranny mounts.
I wouldn't rule out the axles either. In fact, I'd still be looking pretty hard at them now that you've shared a little more. You probably have play in the joints. The axles still turn the same speed as the wheels whether or not you're in gear so coasting doesn't isolate them. In fact, taking the tension off them may change the vibration.
Try this, feel for a change in vibration between acceleration, coasting and gearing down. This will change the type of force being applied to the worn joints so the vibration may feel different.
First - thanks, I appreciate the input!
Just clarifying what the feeling is and is not: on the way to work today I studied it more closely. It really and truly feels like it's the right front. It's definitely NOT wheels: my hood bumpers (like most) are sloppy, so at highway speeds with wind or my old crappy tires, I'd see the bouncing that occurs at the front corners. Today as I'm feeling this vibration, there's NO, and I mean absolutely no hood bounce, nor is there that same jumpy feeling.
It IS rotational, and it's vibrating all directions as if the axle or some other rotating part is vibrating in line with the body of the car. Maybe vibrating isn't the right word...but it's definitely not the violent motion of an out of round wheel.
I did notice that it there's more "force" behind the vibration when under load going up hill, and sometimes seems to lessen in force when turning at a decent speed or banking (turning right, I think...putting more weight on the left, less on the right).
I have no doubt that my strut tower bushings are weak at best - if I go down a dirt road, there's a light knocking sound coming from them (it seems) if I take it too fast.
I only rule out the struts as the major part because they've been gone for a while, to be honest, but the boot on the axle has been torn for who knows how many months, it's on the right side, and there wasn't any of this business until that pot hole - which wasn't sharp enough to cause rim damage, nor was I going that fast (and tires/rims have been swapped around with no effect). I also don't believe in coincidence.
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'm thinking of having the axle replaced anyway, since I know it's a matter of time before I HAVE to anyway, and I have the money, and got an "in" at a local service center that will give me a hell of a good deal to install it. I can't do it anymore since my spinal fusion.
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
So I think I'll swap the axle, drain and fill the manual tranny (GL4 Only! Got some NAPA 85W90 Sta-Lube), and see what happens.
Oh! I had the outer tie rod ends replaced...a year ago? I think.
Thanks men!
Jack
OH! PS: Admins can delete this comment if not allowed, but I've begun my own vinyl sign / decal service, so if anyone needs quality decals, stencils, etc., let me know! I'm just starting out so the price is good and my work is top notch, in all modesty.
Jack
#10
Hi guys,
The background:
- My '03 Max has just over 272,000 miles on her.
- CV joints/axles have never been replaced.
- Just over a month ago at the state inspection, guy told me I had a tear in the boot. I thought, "I'll get around to it."
- Three days ago, hit a mid-sized pothole at around 10 mph, and shortly after on the same day noticed a sort of vibration at speeds over about 30 mph.
- The vibration seems to vary in intensity with speed, but it's not as harsh as an out of balance tire.
- Took it to the shop today and they said that my right front tire (same side with torn boot) had separated belts, needed to be replaced. The tires were all just about slick, so bought 4 new ones, had it aligned.
- The vibration is still there, exactly as before. I marked the rims before they took it in, and the right rims are now on the left side, so that isn't it.
SO here's my question: can a bad CV joint cause vibration like this? I did the only test I remember from the old '80s CV joints, which was to take it to a parking lot and drive in circles as tight as she'd go, left and right, forward and back, and there's NO popping or clicking. I did hear some slight groaning, but that *could* be my old busted struts.
So I'm looking for input before having the axle replaced. Do you guys - obviously more expert than I - think it's the axle, or is there another likely cause?
I've shifted into neutral (manual trans) at highway speed and the vibration doesn't change. I've sat parked and slowly revved the engine to see if I had a serious misfire - nope, smooth through all RPMs. Had the clutch replaced maybe 10,000 miles ago, fluid change, and all has been well.
Okay, that's it.
Thanks!
Jack
The background:
- My '03 Max has just over 272,000 miles on her.
- CV joints/axles have never been replaced.
- Just over a month ago at the state inspection, guy told me I had a tear in the boot. I thought, "I'll get around to it."
- Three days ago, hit a mid-sized pothole at around 10 mph, and shortly after on the same day noticed a sort of vibration at speeds over about 30 mph.
- The vibration seems to vary in intensity with speed, but it's not as harsh as an out of balance tire.
- Took it to the shop today and they said that my right front tire (same side with torn boot) had separated belts, needed to be replaced. The tires were all just about slick, so bought 4 new ones, had it aligned.
- The vibration is still there, exactly as before. I marked the rims before they took it in, and the right rims are now on the left side, so that isn't it.
SO here's my question: can a bad CV joint cause vibration like this? I did the only test I remember from the old '80s CV joints, which was to take it to a parking lot and drive in circles as tight as she'd go, left and right, forward and back, and there's NO popping or clicking. I did hear some slight groaning, but that *could* be my old busted struts.
So I'm looking for input before having the axle replaced. Do you guys - obviously more expert than I - think it's the axle, or is there another likely cause?
I've shifted into neutral (manual trans) at highway speed and the vibration doesn't change. I've sat parked and slowly revved the engine to see if I had a serious misfire - nope, smooth through all RPMs. Had the clutch replaced maybe 10,000 miles ago, fluid change, and all has been well.
Okay, that's it.
Thanks!
Jack
#11
My 2002 Maxima has a torn axle boot on the passenger side. It used to make a popping sound whenever I'd turn left while there was a bump or something. The other day I was rotating my tires, I noticed that the sway bar bolt wasn't bolted on all the way. I think it was from vibrations that it came loose. I bolted it down tight and haven't heard a popping noise anymore. The noise I'm hearing now is like an awful screeching/scratching sound. That only happens when I go up my steep driveway in reverse with the wheels locked all the way to the left.
#12
#13
#14
I have what appears to be an axle vibration. Been getting worse. 3 years ago a shop said psgr axle was the fault of vibration.
With a passenger riding the vibe gets less noticeable. But it comes and goes in its intensity depending on acceleration and level road, etc. Seems rotational issue to me.
How can I rule out motor mount as I'm not 100% sure this shop covered that area.
Wheels have been balanced and rotation doesn't affect it.
With a passenger riding the vibe gets less noticeable. But it comes and goes in its intensity depending on acceleration and level road, etc. Seems rotational issue to me.
How can I rule out motor mount as I'm not 100% sure this shop covered that area.
Wheels have been balanced and rotation doesn't affect it.
#15
I have what appears to be an axle vibration. Been getting worse. 3 years ago a shop said psgr axle was the fault of vibration.
With a passenger riding the vibe gets less noticeable. But it comes and goes in its intensity depending on acceleration and level road, etc. Seems rotational issue to me.
How can I rule out motor mount as I'm not 100% sure this shop covered that area.
Wheels have been balanced and rotation doesn't affect it.
With a passenger riding the vibe gets less noticeable. But it comes and goes in its intensity depending on acceleration and level road, etc. Seems rotational issue to me.
How can I rule out motor mount as I'm not 100% sure this shop covered that area.
Wheels have been balanced and rotation doesn't affect it.
#16
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cyclecrazy55
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
13
08-11-2005 01:46 PM
Frank Fontaine
General Maxima Discussion
2
04-20-2003 07:08 AM