2001 I30 w/ 208k miles

I've been having an occasional stalling issue while coming to a stop (vehicle warmed up) and so figured I'd go ahead and replace the MAF. I got the OEM one with the housing, so I removed a bunch of bolts and was able to get it all off and installed.

Next, I'd was going to try and clean the throttle body to see if that helped too. I'm not sure if it needs to be cleaned as the valve looks okay, but the bottom edge looks dirty and I'm not sure if it might get sticky or have troubles breathing when closed.

The problem is that I couldn't get further to get to the throttle body. I don't know if I can explain this, but I had the airbox and MAF box removed, but didn't know how to go further, so I could reach it. There's an area with all of the hoses connected to it and I got scared. Does anyone have a pic or instructions on how to get closer to the Throttle Body?

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

Anybody? I tried starting the car in very cold weather and it immediately stalled twice. Third time I gave it gas and it proceeded to idle. It didn't seem to love 700 rpm and kinda revved itself a bit. Symptoms of dirty throttle body?

 

part 1 will show you how to get your tb. you might as well watch all 6 parts as the rest might be your next steps in solving you stalling issue

 

I found this pic (might be a 4th gen) that I'm hoping will help me for Attempt #2.

I don't think I'll actually remove the throttle body (maybe in attempt #3 LOL), but if I can at least get those dirty edges and area around it clean, that should hopefully prevent the stalling issue.

I can't believe more people don't freak out when it happens. Maybe its because I have an automatic, but losing all power, steering input while coming to a stop in heavy traffic is not fun.

 

Dirty IACV might be causing the stalling problem, not a dirty TB. In any case, it couldn;t hurt to clean both (IACV & TB).

 

Thanks! I WAS finally able to get those hoses disconnected and that airbox thing disconnected. Then came a near impossible time to get that final accordion hose removed (had to twist it plus then use a rubber mallet to tap it loose).

NOW, I'm just having problems getting the MAF part back installed into the rubber hose it clamps to. I'm having troubles getting the full airbox pushed back in with the rubber grommet and getting it so its not going in an angle. I think I'm going to have to take apart the MAF, install it by itself into the hose and then see if I can bolt the MAF back in afterwards.

Have you (or anybody) had this problem? I've spent forever trying to get that back assembled and to get it so that the lower bolt fits in its place for the airbox.

If the problem still happens after all of this (and presuming I just don't give up and take it to the dealer), I'll certainly take your advice and look at the IACV.

Wait, can you clean a 5th gen IACV? I'm reading you have to replace it.

 

Yeah my bad, looking at the 4G pic confused me. If that doesn't help then yes replace it.

Also, these cars are getting old so I can see some of the rubber components beginning to or already on their death bed.

 

+1, just buy a new "final accordion hose", it will be 1000x easier to put on. the old one is stale and hard like old bread

 

Thanks guys. Well, I was FINALLY able to get it put back together and now when I start the car, I get a LOUD SCREECH and then dies immediately. I'm about to give up completely.

Any ideas on this? Is it related to the throttle body cleaning?

Ugh, I hate this. I'm almost to the point to where I just get it towed somewhere (else!) and probably throw more money at it or just get rid of it altogether.

Anything? I'm getting desperate and depressed.

 

A loud screech doesn't sound like anything related to the throttle body cleaning unless you managed to drop a screw or something into it. That would be bad because it would be sucked right into the motor.

I'd start by looking at the belts and making sure they're in place and there's nothing's tangled up in them. You may have dropped a tool down there or they might have squeaked because the car's been down for a few days. After that, have someone start the car while you listen with the hood up. A loud screech has to be coming from somewhere.

The screech and the non-start might not even be related. Double check the accordion hose and make sure you didn't rip it. Any air leak between the MAF and the TB could cause a rough idle or stalling. Check all the other lines you touched. It's easy to leave one off or not notice it's split. Make sure the MAF is plugged in too. Simple things can easily be forgotten after a job works you over like this.

 

Thanks! Yeah I think the screech is maybe belt related or something. I gave it some gas for a few seconds this time and then it finally started to idle normally so that is good. I'd like to believe the stalling problem is addressed but I doubt it.

Everything is attached correctly and likely I'll be back to the original problem of occasional stalling when coming to a stop. So, if TB is clean enough and MAF is new, what would next likely be? IASC? Vacuum leak?

 

Where did you buy your MAF? Did you buy OEM?
Your problem is a typical MAF problem, but perhaps not. The only other causes I can think of are VIAS (leaks or other), and possibly a bad Cam/Crank sensor. Have you checked for any codes or pending codes?

 

MAF is genuine Nissan and old one is doing identical thing. Maybe I damaged some of the wires, but it was obviously stalling before anything was touched. Is there a way to test MAF or IASC? I'm not experienced with voltmeter but do have one.

 

Re. MAF checking: follow the instructions in this note: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...ew?usp=sharing ; these are my notes compiled from multiple posts on this forum.
If the MAF checks out good, look at the Cam/Crank sensor. You should be aware of this recall http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowledgebase/links/289/ (this was back in 2003).

 

Thanks good stuff

 

Just to close this out, if you're having the same problem, for me the key was to not pry with a screwdriver or pull as hard as you can. TWISTING seems to be the key. It takes a lot of effort but if you can twist it, it'll take breaking free. I finally then got it off by also hitting it with a rubber mallet.