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IASC Failure - Coolant Bypass?

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Old Jan 27, 2016 | 07:22 AM
  #1  
kirkhilles's Avatar
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IASC Failure - Coolant Bypass?

2001 i30 w/ 208k miles

I have the dreaded P0505 now and am about to get the old Idle Controller off and the new one installed soon.

Should I do the coolant bypass? Does anyone have a step by step guide with pictures? I'd like to know exactly what hose to connect where. Maybe it's obvious.

Is this picture applicable?

http://www.johnclare.com/pics/cars/bypass.jpg

Is it worth doing? I don't want to go through this in a year if it happens again, but if it were just an every 100k-200k thing (mine happened at 208k), then I wouldn't worry about it. I'm just worried that if its leaking now, it'll leak again soon.

Suggestions?
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 08:43 AM
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You need to replace what Infiniti/Nissan calls the IACV (Intake Air Control Valve). The names you used must evidently be another manufacturer's name for the equivalent part.

I would not bother with doing the bypass. This is a controversial subject and and others will post Do it! Do it! If you were still using the original IACV, I would probably say do the by-pass. But since you have to replace it, the new one will last much longer than the original. The 2 problems that made it fail have theoretically been fixed. You can still do the by-pass if you want, but if you live in a cold climate, it helps a cold engine run better.

I don't know of any how-to for you to follow. It is a tight, crowded working area, but many people have done without a how-to so you can most likely do it.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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Thanks. I guess I don't understand how it failed though. Isn't it from a leaky hose going into the TB? Wouldn't it do that to the new one and fry it as well?
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kirkhilles
Thanks. I guess I don't understand how it failed though. Isn't it from a leaky hose going into the TB? Wouldn't it do that to the new one and fry it as well?
the leak is unrelated to the hose, the gasket fails and coolant gets into the stepper motor.

Old Jan 27, 2016 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cornholio
the leak is unrelated to the hose, the gasket fails and coolant gets into the stepper motor.

Ah! Thank you, that makes sense. All of this over a stupid, tiny gasket. Grr. Yeah, I'll just skip the coolant bypass if it'll be good for awhile then.

I guess I'll have to make sure it's completely sealed then. Hopefully, that'll be pretty obvious when I go to change it.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 11:05 AM
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Here's what I think is a valid question. Should those of us with our original IACV's with 12x,000 miles replace the gasket, do the bypass, neither, or both?

Climate: Central IL.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Montego Murph
Here's what I think is a valid question. Should those of us with our original IACV's with 12x,000 miles replace the gasket, do the bypass, neither, or both?

Climate: Central IL.
i would bypass it. it might still eventually die on you, but could avoid taking ecm with it (i am hypothesizing).

from what i've read on here people have done the bypass in colder climates with no noticeable affects.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 03:26 PM
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^^^ what he said.

At 120K miles, you would probably be better off to do the bypass. Everything is a compromise. Maybe the engine will run a little rougher when you first start it, but it will save you a bunch of dollars and aggravation down the line.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 04:50 PM
  #9  
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My IACV failed because of a bad hose that was leaking coolant and fried the IACV motor.

I'd do the bye pass if I were you. Its an easy fix with less than a foot of new hose. Take out the old hose and take it to your auto parts store. A $6 fix may prevent you from future money spent on fixing the ECM.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by manilakid3
My IACV failed because of a bad hose that was leaking coolant and fried the IACV motor.
that doesn't make sense to me- the coolant was spraying on the outside of the motor and broke it?
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