2001 i30 w/208k

I apologize as I've had various threads with similar issues, but its different now, so I'm hoping someone has some insight.

I've pretty much given up on my stalling issues, but wanted to give it one more shot before I likely take it to the dealer.

My car has had stalling issues before coming to a stop occasionally (generally fully warmed), so I've replaced the MAF and cleaned the Throttle Body (without removing it).

Now, the car (which hasn't been driven much since then so I don't know if it'll stall while coming to a stop again) while cold will stall immediately and consistently STALL unless I give it some gas (a few seconds at 2,000 RPM or so will do it) and then seems to idle fine.

I don't know if this is the same issue or if I damaged something. It DID take me a number of attempts to get that stupid rubber grommet and the MAF/Airbox pushed back in correctly, so maybe I damaged a wire or hose somewhere.

What would be the most likely culprits? I don't want to spend more money than I have to as I just need the car to maintain its backup status (1x per week or so) for a couple more years until our SUV is paid off.

I don't believe its the MAF itself as it does the same thing with both the original MAF as well as a new Nissan OEM MAF. Its possible I damaged both of them, but I'd say it'd be more likely I damaged a wire there than the MAF itself.

The Throttle Body also wasn't too bad (not nearly as bad as expected) and to be safe I didn't remove it but just cleaned it with Throttle Body cleaner using both a rag as well as a toothbrush.

I'm sure the Air Intake Hose could be replaced, but could that cause it to actually stall? It might have some small cracks in it, but was in decent shape at least to my eyes. I did see (or caused it) that the rubber grommet was kinda bent down in a U shape in one spot.

Again, I don't care about MPG or efficiency, but have to nail down the stalling issue. Its scary and dangerous to have it stall with cars around me, especially since it's an automatic and have to come to a complete stop, put it in park, shut off, start with again with some extra throttle and THEN drive. That's not to mention the fact that I lose power steering and braking power.

Ideas??

 

So, could it be the IACV if I'm not getting SES codes? My understanding is that you can't clean a 5th gen, so I'd rather not spend more money and more time replacing something that might not be the problem.

 

A damaged intake hose could cause stalling but that would also come with a very poor idle when did run. In between stalling it would have a very bad idle. ANY air coming in after the MAF is a problem and will cause a rough idle (all the time) and stalling if it gets bad enough. The fact that you can rev it for a bit then have a smooth idle tells me it's not an intake leak.

I agree that it's probably not the MAF if you've swapped it and are having the same problems.

I know it sounds basic but how old are the plugs? Have you pulled them and looked at them?

 

air leak

 

Thanks for the input! In terms of the spark plugs, yeah, they are definitely likely old and in need of replacing, but could that likely be a culprit? Wouldn't that have different symptoms or SES codes?

 

Could it be the coil packs? Although, wouldn't that also return SES codes?

 

Should I clean the EGR valve?

 

Are you not getting any codes?

Plugs can cause strange issues because they take more juice to fire when they're old and worn out. They could be firing but throwing a weak spark. Combine that with a rich AFR when cold and maybe a slightly low voltage and who knows? It's an old car so other systems are weak as well. The engine really depends on the plugs firing PROPERLY.


I'd throw a cheap set of plugs in it and see what happens. Get some of the lower priced NGK plugs. They'll be fine for what you're doing with the car. There's no point looking at complex and expensive solutions when you know the foundation is shaky.

 

Thanks, I looked at Amazon starting with the OEM double-platinum plugs and it turns out that I had ordered then about 4 years ago. I remember having a guy install them. In terms of miles, though it was probably only about 20k ago miles wise (shortly later this became our backup car).

I think I'll leave them alone unless I have evidence they are the failure. Thanks, though.

 

In that case I'd scratch them off the list.

 

Yeah, too bad, as if it were the cause (and if they were as old as I originally thought), that would've been a satisfying fix. Oh well. Probably some vacuum leak somewhere.

 

It has to be the IACV. A vac leak would just make it rev higher when cold (more fuel).

You can absolutely clean it (and you can move the TB butterfly, it's cable operated). Spray a bunch of brake cleaner into the inlet, then some penetrating lube (can help unstick it if that's an issue). Let it dry some and fire it up. It works on other cars and IACV are all very similar.

 

Thanks. Actually, I decided to take it to the dealer tomorrow morning and get some diagnostics on it, so we'll see if they come up with something conclusive. Interesting about cleaning the IASC, I've always heard that you should just replace the 5th gen ones.

 

That's b/c if you don't do the coolant bypass, it will leak, short out the motor, then fry the ECU.

I wouldn't waste a dime at the dealer. They're gonna charge you 75 for nothing, then want 200 to change the IACV.

You might as well change it yourself if cleaning and resetting idle doesn't work.

 

That is a good idea (getting the diagnostic done at the dealer). If it turns out to be your IACV (my bet), make sure you deal with the potential ECU damage issue; in either case, read this note https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...1fNlF5QjQ/view before your visit to the dealer.

 

Wow, thanks. I hadn't even heard of anyone mentioning upgrading the fuse before. Have you done this? Can you just get a regular 7.5A fuse? I think I'll have to do that. Also, is there a link to the coolant bypass that tells you step-by-step? I'm a newbie and not mechanically inclined, so I'd like it dummified

 

I guess I'll find out tomorrow, but generally doesn't an IASC failure lead to a P0505 code or is that just when the ECU is fried? So, would this be possible that its just stuck or dirty or something but hasn't actually failed yet?

What are the rules to the replacement and ECU failure? As long as you replace the IASC correctly while the power is off, I guess the ECU is okay, but if it fails at any point, you're screwed I guess?

 

iacv won't always throw p0505 code.

if i were you here is what i would do:
1. skip the dealer diagnostic
2. pull ecm and look/smell for burning. if bad news, repair ecm and proceed to step 3
3. use the money you saved by skipping the dealer to put towards a new oem iacv- i also suspect this will solve your problem, if not consider it preventative maintenance on a car w/ 200k+ miles.
4. do coolant bypass when installing new iacv

if you can take the airbox out you can take the throttle body off and replace the iacv.

 

Crap, just got the call and have confirmed what you all insisted, but I didn't think. IASC + confirmed ECM failure. Crap, crap, crap. I'm surprised that I didn't get the P0505 code. I hope it can make it home. Wasn't really planning on putting anymore time into the car, but I guess since I can get to the throttle body, I can find a way to get the IASC.

So... what are the latest and best options (tough with posts going back many years) for companies to fix the ECMs? I presume this is recommended so you don't have to worry about reprogramming keys. You can't program the keys yourself, right? My co-worker is telling me about a process to do it.

What about IASC. OEM only I guess?

 

Is this applicable?

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/common/i...am_key_fob.php

That seems do-able

 

On eBay there is a company "mandigital" that has some Engrish for the listing, but good reviews and $79 seems reasonable. Anyone use them or another cheap online company?

 

first off if this was a dealership that told you it was both the iacv and the ecm you should verify the ecm yourself before proceeding with repair. i wouldn't trust that they're not just trying to give you a large repair bill. take it out of the car and look at it. visually inspect it and use your nose to see if it smells burnt. google "youtube maxima p0505", there's a 6 part series that will show you pretty much how to do everything (i think i posted one if them in another one of your threads)

maxiiboy has some good notes on repair places in his link he posted earlier. the other day another member sent one off for a $90 repair but i don't think he's posted back any results yet.

the general consensus on here is oem only for the iacv

no, that's only for your keyfob. won't do anything for the key. if you get a new or used ecm you will have to tow to the dealer and pay more to have it reprogrammed once there.

 

Hasn't everyone's idle been high when the ecu burnt? That's why it sounds suspect to me. Plus, dealerships lie like a politician.
I would definitely check the ecu, 1st.

Also, nissan datascan II! No one even attempts to use it. It would be a simple iacv replacement and junkyard ecu swap with that software if needed.

 

Well, amusingly enough on my drive home popped up the dreaded P0505. LOL, thanks AFTER all of this other troubleshooting. Oh well, didn't spend too much. I'm going to start by watching the videos and get my ECM out of the car. That's pretty straightforward, right? Just some screws or whatever?

 

Yes, fairly easy. You can find a video online that shows how to remove the ecu. 4 bolts, connector.

 

I hope it isn't burnt, yet, or unrelated to O ring failure.

 

Good Write-up there. Which fuse is #58 listed as on the fuse cover? I would guess its one of the Eng Cont fuses.

 

The fuse I am referring to is fuse #58 in Fusible Link and Fuse box (the longitudal box, by the battery, along the edge of the car; see the FSM, page EL-340). The fuse is a 15A fuse, in the outside row; I believe it's labelled "ECM fuse"; more important, just pull few fuses out, there is a number under each fuse.

EDIT 1/28/2015: The fuse is labelled ENG CONT1.

 

I have a 2000 maxima 5 speed. The 15A fuses on the outer edge of the fuse box are: H/Lamp RH, H/Lamp LH, Speaker, INJ Drive, THROT MTR, Wiper Deicer. Are any of these #58? BTW, on my car there are no numbers listed under the fuses in this fuse box. There are 2 15A fuses on the inside (closest to battery) of the fuse box: ENG CONT 2 and ENG CONT 1. inside the car on the drivers side the fuses are numbered. Fuse #8 is labeled Engine Control. Any of these sound right?

 

Yes, it's ENG CONT1 - I just went into the garage and checked.

 

Thanks