IASC Failure - Coolant Bypass?
IASC Failure - Coolant Bypass?
2001 i30 w/ 208k miles
I have the dreaded P0505 now and am about to get the old Idle Controller off and the new one installed soon.
Should I do the coolant bypass? Does anyone have a step by step guide with pictures? I'd like to know exactly what hose to connect where. Maybe it's obvious.
Is this picture applicable?
http://www.johnclare.com/pics/cars/bypass.jpg
Is it worth doing? I don't want to go through this in a year if it happens again, but if it were just an every 100k-200k thing (mine happened at 208k), then I wouldn't worry about it. I'm just worried that if its leaking now, it'll leak again soon.
Suggestions?
I have the dreaded P0505 now and am about to get the old Idle Controller off and the new one installed soon.
Should I do the coolant bypass? Does anyone have a step by step guide with pictures? I'd like to know exactly what hose to connect where. Maybe it's obvious.
Is this picture applicable?
http://www.johnclare.com/pics/cars/bypass.jpg
Is it worth doing? I don't want to go through this in a year if it happens again, but if it were just an every 100k-200k thing (mine happened at 208k), then I wouldn't worry about it. I'm just worried that if its leaking now, it'll leak again soon.
Suggestions?
You need to replace what Infiniti/Nissan calls the IACV (Intake Air Control Valve). The names you used must evidently be another manufacturer's name for the equivalent part.
I would not bother with doing the bypass. This is a controversial subject and and others will post Do it! Do it! If you were still using the original IACV, I would probably say do the by-pass. But since you have to replace it, the new one will last much longer than the original. The 2 problems that made it fail have theoretically been fixed. You can still do the by-pass if you want, but if you live in a cold climate, it helps a cold engine run better.
I don't know of any how-to for you to follow. It is a tight, crowded working area, but many people have done without a how-to so you can most likely do it.
I would not bother with doing the bypass. This is a controversial subject and and others will post Do it! Do it! If you were still using the original IACV, I would probably say do the by-pass. But since you have to replace it, the new one will last much longer than the original. The 2 problems that made it fail have theoretically been fixed. You can still do the by-pass if you want, but if you live in a cold climate, it helps a cold engine run better.
I don't know of any how-to for you to follow. It is a tight, crowded working area, but many people have done without a how-to so you can most likely do it.
I guess I'll have to make sure it's completely sealed then. Hopefully, that'll be pretty obvious when I go to change it.
from what i've read on here people have done the bypass in colder climates with no noticeable affects.
^^^ what he said.
At 120K miles, you would probably be better off to do the bypass. Everything is a compromise. Maybe the engine will run a little rougher when you first start it, but it will save you a bunch of dollars and aggravation down the line.
At 120K miles, you would probably be better off to do the bypass. Everything is a compromise. Maybe the engine will run a little rougher when you first start it, but it will save you a bunch of dollars and aggravation down the line.
My IACV failed because of a bad hose that was leaking coolant and fried the IACV motor.
I'd do the bye pass if I were you. Its an easy fix with less than a foot of new hose. Take out the old hose and take it to your auto parts store. A $6 fix may prevent you from future money spent on fixing the ECM.
I'd do the bye pass if I were you. Its an easy fix with less than a foot of new hose. Take out the old hose and take it to your auto parts store. A $6 fix may prevent you from future money spent on fixing the ECM.
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