Hey guys - just curious what your thoughts are on this AE that I may look at. He's asking $1300 & saying it won't start - I think it's worth the risk if it's like $800-1000 & he really wants to get rid of it. Says it turns over and the advice I'm being given from a couple of buddies would be to take cables with me when I look at it to make sure it turns over. Otherwise appears to be pretty clean.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/5386141237.html

Of note, the car (in TX) appears to be a Canadian variant - other than the speedo & temperature settings being in C, what other differences are there that I need to be aware of?

 

I saw this too (i live in Denton), and I was thinking about it as well, but im going to pass until i find a 03. But i say if it cranks over fine, and has compression, why not, could be a steal.

 

Why do you say it appears to be a Canadian variant?

Also looks like it's been on there for a month. If it's really still available, I don't see why it couldn't be had for cheap.

 

Bring not only cables but also an ODBC reader and try to find out whether there are any codes or incomplete monitors. If the car indeed turns but does not start, then you know what the suspects are: fuses, CPS, IACV, fuel delivery, NATS, etc.

 

Something tells me they would have already tried to jump start it by now. Probably wont start with just a jump. Just be careful they're not covering up a blown motor, or other issue, by disabling it some other way and saying "I don't know why it wont start".

I remember looking through the paper at cheap cars when I was younger. Every other one said "Runs great but needs starter". Yeah right!!

I'm not saying it's bad. Just don't get excited and assume a cheap easy fix. If it were they'd probably fix it and sell it for more.

 

Yeah I tried to ask the same question. The car is still available is what he told me. Was really looking to use the cables just to make sure it turns over, not to really start it. Would think I'd have to tow it (beat down, it's about an hour + from my house. My thoughts are if I can get it for $1k, it may be worth it, even if I have to put another K into it.

Runs great, needs starter - very similar to AC works but needs Freon...

Canadian - speedo in KM/HR, Odometer in KM, HVAC in Celsius. I also ran the vin and, best I can tell, that's what market it was for. If someone wants to run the vin for me, that' be awesome, too

 

I never pay more than $500 to $600 for non-running cars...You just never know what you're getting into.

 

bro...I would jump on this car for $1000 and not look back

 

Kind of how I feel...just have to make the trek across town and check it out...

 

First Red Flag:
"it's not a major fix", uh ok whatever that means.

1G for a car that don't start and you won't be able to pull codes if the car won't start. Its a risky proposition my friend.

 

Not true. You can pull codes even if the car does not start - as long as the car has a battery, any battery.

 

How? Even if the owner clears all codes even the pending codes with obdii.

 

like someone else said a few posts up. I would not pay $1000 for a non running car, id pass it on by who knows whats really wrong with it. I just passed up buying a 97 i30 for $400. Runs but does not drive is what the seller advertised. Only took a picture of one side of the car where the control arm/cv axle and pass side had damage. But the driver side of the car was much worse. Too much body damage for me, i had to pass, then he offered it to me for the price i originally offered. I still declined. But hey its your money and if your willing to invest in the car then by all means get it.

 

I wouldn't put much stock in pulling codes from a non running car. There will probably be some but what are they going to tell?

Remember,
There's no code to tell if the motor is shot or if the tranny is full of broken teeth.
There's no code to tell if the frame is so tweaked that it won't drive straight.

 

While it's true that the engine does not have to be running, if the current owner wasn't sharp enough to know this and clear the codes, then checking for them may reveal something. Even if there are no codes for whatever reason, checking for codes is a good practice when buying a car. I'm currently looking at cars right now and carry my code reader with me.

 

2002 Nissan Maxima
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5432001542.html

 

Much better.

 

If the owner clears the codes, then the eight monitors (O2, EVAP, etc., one for each problem area) will show as "incomplete monitor". That's a clear proof that somebody just cleared the codes.