davidtemple

I have been following these threads lately, but no help. so hopefully someone can chime in with positive advice


Ok, so here is where I am at, Car went from not starting to starting ( after I replaced parts below ), but you can rev the engine and rpm's increase normally in park but put it in drive and start out of the driveway and it bogs down or dies as you press the gas pedal.

Here is what I have done and it helped.

Swapped MAF from a used car in salvage yard, but no difference.

New Spark Plugs
New Fuel Pump and Filter
New Plug Wires

jerrod99_se-l

I did a lottle searching on google....from what I've found with your symotons...it points to a bad throttle position sensor...I'm pretty sure there is a way to check it with a meter, but not sure what the readings are supposed to be at as far as at idle and wide open throttle...start there and see what comes of it...the tps isn't a cheap part...I'm sure the wizard or Dennismik can chime in on this one

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Hope these help...

JvG

Did you disconnect any vaccuum hoses when you worked on the car?

Running at idle but bogging when put in gear is a classic symptom of a vaccuum leak.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Agreed. Or a bad MAF or simply having the MAF plug harness disconnected. But OP swapped MAF's, and we have to assume he reconnected it.

davidtemple, when you say plug wires, you mean coilpacks, right?

And when you replaced the plugs, what did the old plug tips look like? black? brown? or white?

What year Max do you have? and when is the last time it ran right? Do any mods or maintenance since it ran right?

As others have stated, vacuum leak or bad TPS are probably the next culprits to look at after you've completely ruled out the MAF.

Having a bad MAF harness isn't too common, but don't rule it out.
Unplug the MAF, turn on the ignition (no need to be running), and get your voltmeter out.

There are three terminals on the MAF. One is +12 that is on whenever the ignition is on. It's either yellow or red if I recall. That terminal supplies power to the MAF from the battery. #2 is a ground. You should show continuity between this (green or black) terminal and a good ground, like the - battery terminal. The third wire carries the 0 to +5 volt signal from the MAF to the ECU. The voltage is proportional to the mass of air entering your engine.

If the connector has the +12 power and a good ground, plug the MAF back in and start the car. Take a straight pin and stick it in the back of the plug (called back probing), and hook the voltmeter up. At idle, you should see 0.5 to 1 volt. If you see this voltage at idle, reach over to the throttle body and rev the engine. The needle on the voltmeter should jump when the engine revs. It won't go all the way to 5 volts, but you should see 2 to 2.5 whenever you rev it. If all this stuff happens, your MAF is fine, and you need to look for another cause.