I've had a 2001 Maxima for about three years, and I'm replacing the IACV and ECU -- obviously a well known notorious issue.

I'm thinking about hanging on to the car, but I'm curious: What are the main major issues with the Gen. 5 Maxima?

If the IACV/ECU is the only big one, it seems worth hanging on to it.

Your opinions, insights and experiences please.

(FYI... I've already replaced the brakes and the shocks and the radiator.)

Thanks in advance for your time and insights!

 

Seized rear calipers, bad shift solenoids, ignition coils, rusted radiator support and leaky HP PS hose are some common issues. Luckily the 3.0 doesn't have the oil burning issues like it's older 3.5 brother.

How many miles?

 

^^^ +1!!! That's a good list.

However, I only see two major issues: IACV/EMNT/ECU and "PS Hose"; these two problems are the only ones that can snowball. All the other problems are annoying but localized in scope; also, repairing them is not exceedingly expensive.
Edit: Pre-cat failures are common and very expensive to repair. Unless you just remove them.

 

My 2000 SE 5 speed has 206,000 miles. Since buying it 15 months back both precats have failed. I installed spacers on both and wont replace the cats unless they clog and cause problems. Replaced one oxygen sensor, alternator, rebuilt one stuck front rotor, both front outer tie rods, neutral shift sensor, radiator, one radiator fan motor, had the front cross member welded in an area where it had a significant crack. These are mainly normal wear issues. I've driven about 25,000 miles during this time. Engine, transmission, clutch, and original suspension operate like new.

 

leaky oem radiator, bad radiator fans, rotten oil pan/transmission pan....

 

Don't forget about the rear value cover gasket issue. You have to change the rear value cover as it leaks oil.

 

I like how leaking PS/VC/radiator and coils are listed as major problems specific to maximas These are normal wear items and happen on any xyz car (and to worse degrees sometimes).
Someone better not tell you guys about Hondas at this age...

True stuff, but don't scare poor OP. He has the best one made.

Unplug motor mounts before you have to replace the ECU, again.

 

that's more specific to the 5.5
5th gen just change the gaskets

 

Good list, I'll add: Coolant overflow tank gets very brittle over time. Mine you could push your finger through the tank anywhere near the top (accidentally did) before replacing.

 

Yeah, those are weird...some are gone like that and others are like new.

 

What is the deal with the rear calipers? Is there any aftermarket improvements or seasonal maintenance one can do, or is it just a fact of life that they are sucko?

 

Handbrake mechanism/cable freezes up in the salt, especially if you don't use it. Some seem to leak.

I never had any trouble out of the pistons, though, but apparently it happens.

 

Well said!! My old 2003 burned oil like a bishh, it also leaked out onto the alternator and took out 2 new alternators I put on, it was a while ago, but I forget the cost to repair that but I know it was a lot. Sadly, I threw a piston racing on the express way. The VQ35 is a sweet engine.

 

I think quarter panel rust can be added to the list of problems at least for me as a Canadian dealing with winter and all the salt on the roads. Seems like many of the 5th gens around have rust problems. Luckily my car was garage kept before I acquired it but after just ONE winter i can see a bit forming. Body works on the to do list now!

 

Its called 16 year old originals with 200k .....now that A great caliper IMO...major issue nah

 

Coils is #1....these bad boys are known to go bad on these cars

 

Bloody rear caliper should be #1

 

Couldn't get one off so we just left the old brakes on it.. Guess I'll go to a shop and let them have a go at it

 

For the rear calipers, I've found that servicing them at least once every 9 months (i.e. clean and re-lube everything) will extend their lifespans, as well as using the e-brake everyday, and not rolling the car out of the garage onto the driveway with the engine off (something with pumping the brakes without the engine running is not ideal as I used to do this, and ended up killing 2 calipers due to leakage from the piston).

For 2001, rust, IACV, ECU, coils are really the major issues. It's a better engine than the 3.5L in terms of no oil burning, and just as smooth (and powerful with the 5MT).

 

Why would you do this, though? lol

 

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Maxima/2000/ \thread lol

 

the integrated handbrake into the rear caliper itself is known to happen on all calipers of that crappy design, not just our gen but any car out there. so again that may be a reg wear and tear like the other leaking PS/VC/radiator and coils mentioned

 

Honestly a better question would be do the issues outweigh the good things about it. After you replace the lower tie bar, ECU/IACV, radiator/hoses, then how many other service repairs are you in for?


I would replace all the hoses/ coolant and breather/PCV, and vacuum lines
replace all the ball joints on both sides. reseal the rocker arm covers and intake, fuel injectors.
If the oil leaks into the spark plug wells it could make its way down into the tip of the spark plug and short out the coil pack.

 

Please.

The biggest problem with a 3.0? Rust (lower rad support, you mean). Everything else is bull**** when you know what to fix and take preventative measures on.

I will take a 3.0 cross-country and back over nearly any other car (except my 5.7). Give me a couple crank sensors and a couple coils and I'll be on way to worry free driving (I've never had a coil fail though lol).

 

Yeah lower tie bar (Radiator support) With any used car the main things are fuel delivery, ignition, and exhaust. If you double check the fuel delivery, ignition, and exhaust, well everything else is easily fixable.
And yeah that's basically what it is is a cross country highway high speed ride.