3/5/2016 Friday afternoon problem started with loss of volts and when everything started flashing I put in neutral engine died with big ditch I wasn't completely off the road. Turned flashers on, called someone who helped me push into a parking lot, by then part stores were closed so I took battery home put on charge, got battery from my Sentra and Durango just in case it didn't make the 15 miles trip. Ran fine all the way home without using any accessories used dim lights, because it was dark. 3/5/ Saturday first battery was full charge. Switched it back put other on charge, was about 75%. Less than half mile to auto z they put tester on said bad due to dead cell, started car said alternator is fine. I asked him if he was sure (dead cell battery I have is dead charger says 100% on contact) he said he didn't mind doing the alternator again I started it and he said it wouldn't work because battery was low. Little research I did before test said could be the 120 fuse on positve cable or 30 amp alt fuse, because no battery icon light was coming on instrument panel but it's supposed to when you turn key on. Spent $10 for the 120 fuse and new positive end. Changed 120 fuse and cleaned dirty parts of my cable and put new terminal on. Switched back to Sentra battery in went opposite half mile to O'Reilly's their tester said battery was good just low, guy said start it up. I asked him if he could test with low battery he said yeah. Said starter was good, alternator wasn't charging diodes were draining battery. Since battery was low and couldn't test at auto zone I was done for the day. Charged both batteries Sunday both read around 75% after testing. Used multimeter on batteries both showed 12 volts, put the 1 that passed in tested again started the car checked battery 13.5 volts with heater on high radio on and bright lights with no change I had friend hold meter so I could see if it would change with turning off accessories he said that didn't change, I said I would give it some gas and see if it would go up with RPM or drop. As soon as I put my foot on pedal under 1000 rpm there was a skreech I shut it off. Something smelled funny and buddy said he seen vapors like steam from a busted hose, but smell went away quickly. I said never heard anything sound like that. Wasn't sure if it just blew up so decided to pull fuel pump fuse so I could just try cranking it over, started up no screeching noise before fuel system ran out. When it died buddy heard hissing sound, air conditioning low line blew off by firewall other part of it has 2 holes for bolts to mount it and 2 threaded 1 through the side and other is at end, only found the hose that goes down to a bend no bolts or whatever goes on the end, and couldn't find where supposed to be mounted. Just bought 2 weeks ago guy said something was wrong with the brakes, new caliper 2 front rotors and pads, right rotor was only front half so someone wired the caliper up piston fell out I replaced with new 1 only bled that calliper and brakes are great but, brake light stayed on,. I thought it was because didn't get all air out. Then I read that the battery and brake light both come on when alternator is not charging. Service engine soon light was on when I bought it drove it for 5 days ran great so put 4 new tires and drove it about 800 miles to NC and back not 1 issue. Last tuesday 2 days after coming back 9 days of driving the service light was off it came back on thursday night. I never noticed any difference in anything. Read somewhere that I can get a belt to bypass compressor for now and then test it again. Any help about testing the charging system or a diagram of the AC lines will be appreciated thanks

 

You may have a bad alternator. 13.8 volts is the minimum charging voltage, 14.3 is more normal.

You can get a smaller belt and bypass the a/c compressor. The belt to bypass the a/c compressor needs to be approx 920 mm in length or 36.25 inches. A little longer is OK, the adjuster can take up the slack.

I will give you 2 links to the service manual. The reason for 2 links is that the 2000 had a lot of changes made to it while it was being made. So you have to figure out if you have an early production car or a late production car.

You determine this by the VIN. Look at the last 8 digits of the VIN. Your car will fall into 1 of 4 groups of numbers.

for VINs up to YT0 12236 -or- YT2 11680 -or- YT5 27429 -or- YT7 40491, you have an early production car. Download this manual:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000/

If your car's VIN is higher than the numbers above, you have a late production car and you should download this manual:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000.5/

The section IDX is an alphabetical index for the manual. You may not find something because Nissan does not always use the common, everyday name for things.

Look in section HA for the air conditioning lines, section EL for the alternator.

Section MA on page 13 has the alternator belt diagram

 

With PDF was able to figure out the busted lines were AC, were replaced previously just not removed. Got the alternator changed today, about an hour and a half in driveway not bad for not having a lift or much experience with newer front wheel drive. My battery light comes on when you turn key on it and brake light go off after starting. Actually now only light is service engine soon about 10 miles into the test drive about 15 miles. My research says could be as simple as a loose gas cap to bad coil. I'm getting around 16 since I live in Town so not much highway. Filled up in Tennessee all highway back so I knew that was my chance filled up as soon as I got off the interstate and was little over 24. Thinking that's what the original sales paper says it got brand new. Is there a way to get it to flash me the code and for me to know what they are, or take to part's store for test. I know Dodge you turn key on and off 5 times, I also know sometimes there's a code with long and short pauses makes it kinda difficult.

 

There is a pedal dance you can do. I think it starts spitting out the codes when it starts flashing. So, if you don't complete the reset, it will keep repeating the codes.

http://www.6mt.net/forum/performance...rocedures.html

We just buy the obd2 bluetooth adapter.