5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

137k maxima intermittent starting problem.

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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 10:02 PM
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137k maxima intermittent starting problem.

Hi readers, I've been experiencing a problem on my 2000 maxima. The car refuse to crank after some driving. Let the car sit a little while and it will startup on the first try. Other times it won't even crank no matter what. When it does start, it idles below normal, I have to rev engine to keep it running.

Here's a little more detail. I have no check engine light. My alternator is less 1 year old and it is putting out 14.4v during idle. On the day of this issue, I decided to buy a new battery and installed it outside Walmart parking lot. It started up fine, but same problem after some driving. I ended up driving my car to a local mechanic, as I got to get on with my work day.

I did drive with a bad IACV for 2 months and finally replaced it 3 weeks ago. and no my ECM was not burnt. The car drove fine after the IACV replacement, up until now. Can you guys please chime in to help resolve this issue? Thanks.

I will be getting my car back from the mechanic in a day or so. If he is not able to figure it out. It will have to sit in my drive until I diagnose the problem.
Old Apr 3, 2016 | 11:05 PM
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Bad starter solenoid, relearn idle
Old Apr 3, 2016 | 11:25 PM
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The engine cranking circuit is pretty basic, so troubleshooting isn't all that complicated. There are differences between automatic transmission and manual transmission, so I am going to talk about the automatic transmission car since you omitted that information.

Common problems as the car ages are the battery cables. They develop corrosion where the wire goes into the battery terminal clamp. When the car won't start, try wiggling the cables. Another problem is the park/neutral switch on the transmission. It gets out of adjustment from wear and tear. Try wiggling the shift lever while trying to start the car. Also try putting the transmission into neutral and try starting the car.

How the engine idles is another, separate problem from the no crank. See what happens when you get the car back.
Old Apr 4, 2016 | 07:01 PM
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Ok Update, Finally spoke to the mechanic. He encountered the no crank, no start issue only 1 time, but started up after the 3rd try. Ever since the car was able to start and hold normal idle. He was not able to fully troubleshoot the issue, as the issue did not happen again. I paid a small fee and end up driving the car home.

I'm certain this problem will happen again. On my day off, I will attempt to do some basic testing on the starter with the voltmeter. It is likely that I will take a shot in the dark and replace the starter unit.

Here's my question, the ignition switch generally last longer than the starter? or it is too hard to say? If you replaced either one of these parts please list the mileage you replaced it at. Thanks you guys.
Old Apr 4, 2016 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hybrid775
Ok Update, Finally spoke to the mechanic. He encountered the no crank, no start issue only 1 time, but started up after the 3rd try. Ever since the car was able to start and hold normal idle. He was not able to fully troubleshoot the issue, as the issue did not happen again. I paid a small fee and end up driving the car home.

I'm certain this problem will happen again. On my day off, I will attempt to do some basic testing on the starter with the voltmeter. It is likely that I will take a shot in the dark and replace the starter unit.

Here's my question, the ignition switch generally last longer than the starter? or it is too hard to say? If you replaced either one of these parts please list the mileage you replaced it at. Thanks you guys.
This is typically how the solenoid fails on 5th gens (as proven by the many threads). Dennis is right, you could check the cables AND check the connections at the starter. Sometimes they'll corrode and produce the same symptoms. If you take them off and they're clean, then it's pretty much a guarantee that the solenoid is bad. Neutral switch failure can happen, but I'd say it's pretty rare.

It's an easy replacement. You just need the right size extension on a 1/2 socket and some strength to break the rear bolt loose. I've done three of them on 3.0s and that sucker is tight. It's a tight fit, but you can wiggle the starter out after moving the harness.
I don't even bother checking the starter connections. Given the age and the known propensity for the solenoid to fail, I just change the starter out. It's one less thing to fail later.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:18 PM.
Old Apr 10, 2016 | 07:17 PM
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My 00 i30 was starting rough when the engine was warm and I was starting a stopping it running errands. I saw somewhere a guy who said to run a ground from the transmission to the negative on the battery. Just did it this weekend, and sure enough - my car starts great every time now. It was easier than cleaning the MAF/TB/iacv, etc.

32" ground wire from the transmission to neg terminal. Accessible with the ram air intake removed. 1 hour project for $10 The transmission has an extra empty bolt thread - it was a M10 x 1.5 20mm bolt.
Old Apr 10, 2016 | 07:37 PM
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The other two least likely culprits are the starter relay and inhibitor.

Originally Posted by max96imaaaa
My 00 i30 was starting rough when the engine was warm and I was starting a stopping it running errands. I saw somewhere a guy who said to run a ground from the transmission to the negative on the battery. Just did it this weekend, and sure enough - my car starts great every time now. It was easier than cleaning the MAF/TB/iacv, etc.

32" ground wire from the transmission to neg terminal. Accessible with the ram air intake removed. 1 hour project for $10 The transmission has an extra empty bolt thread - it was a M10 x 1.5 20mm bolt.
I'm guessing your ground wire to the tranny is broken or really corroded. There's also the ground on the alternator to clean up.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Apr 10, 2016 at 07:40 PM.
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