5th Generation passenger Drive Shaft replacement
#1
5th Generation passenger Drive Shaft replacement
To make a long story short I began working on my 5th Generation Maxima myself. I'm into the Passenger Drive Shaft now and just removed it. My question to the forum is how do I put the new shaft in?
#2
Clean and lube the end, then shove it in completely straight, otherwise, you may damage the seals.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 04-10-2016 at 11:05 PM.
#3
Sounds good! I removed the seal and would like to set a new one in. Will the new shaft press the new seal in when you begin to tighten the screws or is it better to pre-set the oil seal into the transaxle?
Last edited by maximatech12; 04-10-2016 at 11:32 PM.
#5
Alright got it! So how difficult is it to pop a new seal in? Will coating the seal with ATF make it go in easier? Will it just push in by hand or should I give it a wack with a hammer?
Getting the old one out was a little tricky but I wound up prying it out with a pry bar. It popped right out. At first I tried a screw driver but it just wasn't enough behind it.
Getting the old one out was a little tricky but I wound up prying it out with a pry bar. It popped right out. At first I tried a screw driver but it just wasn't enough behind it.
Last edited by maximatech12; 04-11-2016 at 04:41 AM.
#6
It can be tricky to get in and it's easy to damage if you do it wrong. It's best if you have something round to use as a punch. A large socket works well.
If you don't have a socket you can carefully use something as a punch and work your way around the seal several times. A socket extension or something else flat and dull will work. You don't want to punch through it or deform it with something sharp like a screwdriver. I wouldn't hit it directly with a hammer.
You might also check with your local auto parts store to see if they have a tool loan plan. Most do for free. They can loan you a kit that has the proper punches in it. Basically it will be a flat circle with a stepped circle on the center. You find the one that lets the center circle slip through the seal to center it. Put it in place and hit it with a hammer.
If you don't have a socket you can carefully use something as a punch and work your way around the seal several times. A socket extension or something else flat and dull will work. You don't want to punch through it or deform it with something sharp like a screwdriver. I wouldn't hit it directly with a hammer.
You might also check with your local auto parts store to see if they have a tool loan plan. Most do for free. They can loan you a kit that has the proper punches in it. Basically it will be a flat circle with a stepped circle on the center. You find the one that lets the center circle slip through the seal to center it. Put it in place and hit it with a hammer.
#7
I cut a 2" hole in a square piece of 3" x 3" 5/8" plywood. I shaved the corners a bit and glued another 3"x3" piece behind it. I put it on and used the jack handle and wacked it a few times. it didn't go in very even like I planned but I eventually got it in pretty even.
We'll have to see if it leaks but I can't imagine any tool allowing you to bang it in evenly.
You can't get a good bang unless you got two people.
We'll have to see if it leaks but I can't imagine any tool allowing you to bang it in evenly.
You can't get a good bang unless you got two people.
Last edited by maximatech12; 04-13-2016 at 01:29 PM.
#10
http://www.tooltopia.com/private-brand-tools-70960.aspx
It usually makes more sense to use the tool loan from a local autoparts store. You basically buy it and return it for a full refund within a certain time. If you don't bring it back it's yours.
The metal tool will work a lot better at transferring the force evenly than plywood.
#11
I wouldn't recommend plywood because I got small wood sawdust all over it from the contact force. Well another alternative would be to remove the entire tube assembly from the exhaust system. Don't see that as all that practical.
I don't really think you would need a special tool just something metal and at least 2" in diameter. get a long pole like a jack handle from a 3 ton jack,a fence pole, or even a long 2X4. Stick it through the route the drive shaft takes. Get another person to hold the round metal punch and get another person to give it a few bangs.
I don't really think you would need a special tool just something metal and at least 2" in diameter. get a long pole like a jack handle from a 3 ton jack,a fence pole, or even a long 2X4. Stick it through the route the drive shaft takes. Get another person to hold the round metal punch and get another person to give it a few bangs.
Last edited by maximatech12; 04-12-2016 at 06:05 PM.
#12
Before I installed the drive shaft/axle seal which I may ad has been great since, no leaks! I searched and found members reporting that the axle seal leaked after installation. Is it possible these members just didn't install it correctly?
If I had to do this again I would order the exhaust tube flange gaskets, carefully remove the tube assembly then install the axle seal. It just takes another 4 hours that way.
... I had a few clunking/popping noises from the passenger side afterwards but the noises eventually went away. They may have been from the coil spring.
If I had to do this again I would order the exhaust tube flange gaskets, carefully remove the tube assembly then install the axle seal. It just takes another 4 hours that way.
... I had a few clunking/popping noises from the passenger side afterwards but the noises eventually went away. They may have been from the coil spring.
Last edited by maximatech12; 07-19-2016 at 06:33 PM.
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