5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Does this engine mount look bad?

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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 05:45 PM
  #1  
SquidBeak's Avatar
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Does this engine mount look bad?

I am hearing an occasional knock coming from the engine compartment on the passenger side, usually when I run over a speed bump etc. at low speed.

It sounds like it is coming from the engine mount. I know these are notorious for going bad.

My car is an '02 with 117K on it. I'm sure it's probably ready for new mounts. I just disconnected the front/rear electronic mounts after reading about the potential to fry the ECU. I also replaced the ECU fuse w/ a 7.5A.

I just wanted to check if this actually looks bad to other members. I haven't seen a brand new OEM mount to compare it too, but I don't think it should be bulging out at the sides like this one is.

When I have someone press the gas pedal with the brake on, the engine doesn't appear to move excessively, about an inch or two.

Have a look:



Passenger side engine mount front - bulging.




Passenger side engine mount rear - bulging.

I'll probably replace it with Anchor 9031 from Rock Auto unless someone recommends something else.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 07:04 PM
  #2  
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That's how all of mine look. As long as it's not bouncing up and down, it's still fine.
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 08:54 PM
  #3  
Donkeypunch's Avatar
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Probably.
Mine would get knocking sounds going up driveways or bumps, turned out to be ripped mounts.
Replaced with china ones and I'm getting that knocking sound again 2-3 years later.
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 03:32 PM
  #4  
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That only applies to the 00-01 models with frying of the ecu
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 03:42 PM
  #5  
SquidBeak's Avatar
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
That only applies to the 00-01 models with frying of the ecu
Thanks for the reply.

As far as I know, there are 2 common ways the ECU can be fried: IACV failure and electronic engine mount failure.

The IACV failure doesn't apply to 5.5 gen because they don't have an IACV, but I am fairly sure the engine mount risk still applies to the 5.5 gen. As far as I know the electronic engine mount design (and problem) is the same for all 5th gens.

I am using this as a reference.

This is by no means personal and I would love to find that this information is incorrect as I would prefer to leave the engine mounts connected.

If you can point me to any concrete info that the risk doesn't apply to 5.5 gens, I would LOVE to see it.

Thanks again.

Last edited by SquidBeak; Apr 15, 2016 at 03:44 PM.
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 04:47 PM
  #6  
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Just stick a pry bar in it and see if you can get excessive movement.
You could also remove it and inspect it. That mount comes out very easily.
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 05:24 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by SquidBeak
Thanks for the reply.

As far as I know, there are 2 common ways the ECU can be fried: IACV failure and electronic engine mount failure.

The IACV failure doesn't apply to 5.5 gen because they don't have an IACV, but I am fairly sure the engine mount risk still applies to the 5.5 gen. As far as I know the electronic engine mount design (and problem) is the same for all 5th gens. Also 5th and 5.5 have different size engines which means different ecu.

I am using this as a reference.

This is by no means personal and I would love to find that this information is incorrect as I would prefer to leave the engine mounts connected.

If you can point me to any concrete info that the risk doesn't apply to 5.5 gens, I would LOVE to see it.

Thanks again.
I have a 02 I35, My rear engine mount died/ is bad and its electronic. Its been bad for a few months, and finially dead lol. My Ecu is fine.
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 05:32 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
I have a 02 I35, My rear engine mount died/ is bad and its electronic. Its been bad for a few months, and finially dead lol. My Ecu is fine.
And it likely didn't short out.
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 05:50 PM
  #9  
QueensMAX's Avatar
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That engine mount is very deceiving. It looks good but the rubber overtime becomes too bouncy. When it is bad you hear a heavy clunk on the right/passenger side of the engine. I know someone who changed struts, control arms, subframe bushings (big job that required engine removal), in the end it was the mount that was causing the passenger side clunk.
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 06:04 PM
  #10  
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From: Columbia SC
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
And it likely didn't short out.
nah gonna replace it though, but its alot of movement of the engine from it being bad just from putting the car in reverse and reving the engine. While it was working you could feel it firm up when giving the car a good amount of throttle.
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