Window issue
#3
At any rate: The troubleshooting section on p. EL-225 of the FSM provides guidance for six common power-window problems. Unfortunately, your problem is not one of them. This means getting your meter out and measuring voltages on pins and connectors; alternatively, blind replacement of parts (not advisable).
If I were you, I would:
- Check the fuses just to be safe.
- Your immediate problem is that both your front windows can't be operated DOWN. Remove the main switch from the armrest (but do not disconnect). Operate LH switch DOWN, and measure the voltage on terminals #1 (G, green wire) and #2 (L, blue wire). There should be power (12V, or at least 5V) on #1, and ground on #2.
- If the above test fails, then the most likely source of your problem is the main switch, or some other "upstream" part. If the test passes, then the problem is "downstream" - in the windows regulator or motor.
If the problem turns out to be your main switch, try http://seabreezeautoparts.com/ . When my main switch failed, I got a replacement there for $27 (OEM price is $120 or so). Also, e-Bay is a good source.
#4
To take a quick guess, I would go with the master power window switch in the driver's door is bad. But before you run out and buy a window switch, try this troubleshooting procedure. You will need a voltmeter, preferably a digital one since it is not polarity sensitive.
This does not apply to the 2002 and 2003 models because the wiring pin numbers and wire colors are different. Also, the 2002 is different from the 2003 model.
The power window motor is a DC motor. By reversing the polarity of the power to the motor, raising & lowering of the window is accomplished.
Measuring voltage at the connector for window switch is easiest as you do not have to pull the door panel off. Pop out the window switch (pry up on the front end) and the connector is easily accessed.
The main window switch in the left front door has 2 connectors on it and the wires that go to the motor are in the big connector.
Those pin numbers and wire colors are:
pin 1 - solid green
pin 2 - solid blue
pin 1 is in a corner of the connector and pin 2 is right next to it.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
The other three door window switches use a different, smaller connector than the left front door switch.
To remove the rear door window switch assembly, pry up on the REAR end of the trim plate.
Those pin numbers and wire colors are:
pin 1 - solid blue
pin 2 - solid green
pin 1 is the second pin in from a corner of the connector and pin 2 is the second pin in from the opposite corner of the same row.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
This does not apply to the 2002 and 2003 models because the wiring pin numbers and wire colors are different. Also, the 2002 is different from the 2003 model.
The power window motor is a DC motor. By reversing the polarity of the power to the motor, raising & lowering of the window is accomplished.
Measuring voltage at the connector for window switch is easiest as you do not have to pull the door panel off. Pop out the window switch (pry up on the front end) and the connector is easily accessed.
The main window switch in the left front door has 2 connectors on it and the wires that go to the motor are in the big connector.
Code:
╔═══╦═══╦═══╦═══════╦═══╦═══╦═══╦═══╗ ║ 7 ║ 6 ║ 5 ║ LOCK ║ 4 ║ 3 ║ 2 ║ 1 ║ ╠═══╬═══╬═══╬═══╦═══╬═══╬═══╬═══╬═══╣ ║ 16║ 15║ 14║ 13║ 12║ 11║ 10║ 9 ║ 8 ║ ╚═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╝
pin 1 - solid green
pin 2 - solid blue
pin 1 is in a corner of the connector and pin 2 is right next to it.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
The other three door window switches use a different, smaller connector than the left front door switch.
To remove the rear door window switch assembly, pry up on the REAR end of the trim plate.
Code:
╔═══╦═══╦═══════╦═══╗ ║ 6 ║ 7 ║ LOCK ║ ║ ╠═══╬═══╬═══╦═══╬═══╣ ║ 4 ║ 1 ║ 3 ║ 2 ║ 5 ║ ╚═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╩═══╝
pin 1 - solid blue
pin 2 - solid green
pin 1 is the second pin in from a corner of the connector and pin 2 is the second pin in from the opposite corner of the same row.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
#5
Nothing happens.
What happens when you try to operate the RH window using the RH switch? Same problem as when using the main switch?
Nothing happens on the rh switch either however when all is quiet I can hear the rh window motor click when I hit up on the rh switch
At any rate: The troubleshooting section on p. EL-225 of the FSM provides guidance for six common power-window problems. Unfortunately, your problem is not one of them. This means getting your meter out and measuring voltages on pins and connectors; alternatively, blind replacement of parts (not advisable).
If I were you, I would:
If the problem turns out to be your main switch, try http://seabreezeautoparts.com/ . When my main switch failed, I got a replacement there for $27 (OEM price is $120 or so). Also, e-Bay is a good source.
Nothing happens on the rh switch either however when all is quiet I can hear the rh window motor click when I hit up on the rh switch
At any rate: The troubleshooting section on p. EL-225 of the FSM provides guidance for six common power-window problems. Unfortunately, your problem is not one of them. This means getting your meter out and measuring voltages on pins and connectors; alternatively, blind replacement of parts (not advisable).
If I were you, I would:
- Check the fuses just to be safe.
- Your immediate problem is that both your front windows can't be operated DOWN. Remove the main switch from the armrest (but do not disconnect). Operate LH switch DOWN, and measure the voltage on terminals #1 (G, green wire) and #2 (L, blue wire). There should be power (12V, or at least 5V) on #1, and ground on #2.
- If the above test fails, then the most likely source of your problem is the main switch, or some other "upstream" part. If the test passes, then the problem is "downstream" - in the windows regulator or motor.
If the problem turns out to be your main switch, try http://seabreezeautoparts.com/ . When my main switch failed, I got a replacement there for $27 (OEM price is $120 or so). Also, e-Bay is a good source.
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