Picked up a 2001 SE,gonna clean it up............
04-04-2017, 10:08 AM
#41
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I have that problem with every bracket also, that is in the engine bay, that isn't on the engine. The Engine i bought has fresh clean brackets.But any other bracket in the engine bay is shot.
I prob will clean them and paint with gray or black POR 15 but the coolant pipes i may do what you did with the header paint.
I also want to use my shorty headers and cattman y-pipe from my 4th gen. If it works and i just have to add bungs that should be easy.
Anyways i have some current pics of in the engine frame rails,inside. Once engine is out alot of seams will be welded.
Apparently i have no EGR thought that was only anniversary
driver axle is out engine wire harness unhooked .getting ready to pull tranny and engine.
Last edited by krismax; 04-04-2017 at 10:11 AM.
04-04-2017, 10:16 AM
#42
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Feel under the rocker panel, there is a lip.That is where two pieces of unibody are spot welded together . I have cut one of those open not a pretty sight.
The water seeps in between the spot welds and stays in the cavity.
The water seeps in between the spot welds and stays in the cavity.
04-09-2017, 10:50 PM
#44
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Ok i have the engine out,and transmission.
and i ordered this
Anybody have this yellow plug when pulling the engine i ripped the two wires out
and i ordered this
Anybody have this yellow plug when pulling the engine i ripped the two wires out
Last edited by krismax; 04-09-2017 at 10:55 PM.
04-25-2017, 04:14 PM
#46
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ok picked up some moog sway bushings. Nissan OEM bumper brackets radiator brackets ,release bearing and front bumper clips.
And some POR 15 undercoating
And some POR 15 undercoating
Last edited by krismax; 04-25-2017 at 04:18 PM.
04-25-2017, 09:37 PM
#47
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picked up this today kept it secret to make sure i could get one
$146
I love there stuff, been using their b-pipe same one for about 13 years.Just recently the bolts on the section joining two pieces together rotted off and made it swing down toward the road and put some rash holes in it.
https://www.budget-performance-exhau...tainless-steel
$146
I love there stuff, been using their b-pipe same one for about 13 years.Just recently the bolts on the section joining two pieces together rotted off and made it swing down toward the road and put some rash holes in it.
https://www.budget-performance-exhau...tainless-steel
04-27-2017, 10:31 PM
#49
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being doing a lot of stuff . Will post pictures soon. Seam welded driver's wheel well. Part of other one. And the rocker driver's side is seam welded underneath .
I must add doing this to this car is a nightmare this glue in between makes welding VERY difficult .
Also the new rad support is completely seam welded, and there were 25 holes in it that weren't threaded.23 i welded shut left 2 on top for foaming.
this foaming and welding is not for rigidity,it is just for moisture prevention. Passenger wheel well has massive undercoating from factory, i will leave much of that well alone. Notice the pun
04-28-2017, 08:48 AM
#50
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IMO, I wouldn't use foam except in areas where where there's not enough access to prep the surface properly for paint. Applied correctly, enamel will last the life of the vehicle. The potential issue with foam is that water can wick into the area between the foam and the metal. You might want to try a test on a piece of not-so-clean steel first, just to see how well the foam adheres and seals the surface.
04-28-2017, 11:34 AM
#51
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IMO, I wouldn't use foam except in areas where where there's not enough access to prep the surface properly for paint. Applied correctly, enamel will last the life of the vehicle. The potential issue with foam is that water can wick into the area between the foam and the metal. You might want to try a test on a piece of not-so-clean steel first, just to see how well the foam adheres and seals the surface.
This foam is made for high end vehicles from the factory, that are foamed that way, when there made. This foam is only produced for this purpose. links are in the thread if you want to read about it.
Picked this up very hard find been looking for Months $30 shipped gas lid mint off 2001 . And also picked up new control arms $65
04-28-2017, 12:07 PM
#52
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looks much better than this ,but wasn't easy to weld.
Also pictures of rad support welded.
And picture of nissans mess of a clutch line i took off today gonna replace it with a complete SS line.
Also pictures of rad support welded.
And picture of nissans mess of a clutch line i took off today gonna replace it with a complete SS line.
04-30-2017, 04:35 AM
#53
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Welded subframe mounts,and welded radiator support in . This with no bolts in it is extremely strong.
The welding is the strength,of the unibody piece.
Pics of it fitted in place with bolts then welded. I seam welded it so it is stronger than the stock spot welds. I need to drill a few side holes on each side to do some plug welds.
I was worried about things being off because of the heat of the welding but everything fit great. No warping issues.
The welding is the strength,of the unibody piece.
Pics of it fitted in place with bolts then welded. I seam welded it so it is stronger than the stock spot welds. I need to drill a few side holes on each side to do some plug welds.
I was worried about things being off because of the heat of the welding but everything fit great. No warping issues.
Last edited by krismax; 04-30-2017 at 04:44 AM.
05-15-2017, 09:59 AM
#54
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just picked these items up more on the way.
clutch master a little stronger than stock.
304 SS bungs for 5 th gen O2 locations. And some cavity wax. and some 304 SS "extenders"
And gonna try some cheap clips.
Also ordered a new crossmember and rear lateral link from nissan.pics later
And i found that airbag sensor i needed and pigtail excellent shape .
clutch master a little stronger than stock.
304 SS bungs for 5 th gen O2 locations. And some cavity wax. and some 304 SS "extenders"
And gonna try some cheap clips.
Also ordered a new crossmember and rear lateral link from nissan.pics later
And i found that airbag sensor i needed and pigtail excellent shape .
05-21-2017, 07:19 PM
#55
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i was gonna buy new crossmember and rear lateral link but canceled the order decided to save the money and fix my stuff.
here is the crossmember ,fixed and sandblasted. Completely seam welded. And holes filled just left one on the top and bottom for foam.
and the middle brace under the car. they both had heavy rust and the crossmember in pic 3 had a hole of rust in that spot and was slightly twisted.
After pics were taken i marine cleaned these and metal prepped these pieces they are now waiting to dry.getting ready for POR15.
I will do this to the rear lateral link and the brace it mounts to,next.
I also picked up two front leather power heated seats and rear from a 02 max. Mint pictures later.
Anybody know how to hook up the auto feature on the drivers seat please HELP ME.
Been cleaning the quarter panels to fix also.
here is the crossmember ,fixed and sandblasted. Completely seam welded. And holes filled just left one on the top and bottom for foam.
and the middle brace under the car. they both had heavy rust and the crossmember in pic 3 had a hole of rust in that spot and was slightly twisted.
After pics were taken i marine cleaned these and metal prepped these pieces they are now waiting to dry.getting ready for POR15.
I will do this to the rear lateral link and the brace it mounts to,next.
I also picked up two front leather power heated seats and rear from a 02 max. Mint
pictures later.Anybody know how to hook up the auto feature on the drivers seat please HELP ME.
Been cleaning the quarter panels to fix also.
05-22-2017, 07:39 AM
#56
i was gonna buy new crossmember and rear lateral link but canceled the order decided to save the money and fix my stuff.
here is the crossmember ,fixed and sandblasted. Completely seam welded. And holes filled just left one on the top and bottom for foam.
and the middle brace under the car. they both had heavy rust and the crossmember in pic 3 had a hole of rust in that spot and was slightly twisted.
After pics were taken i marine cleaned these and metal prepped these pieces they are now waiting to dry.getting ready for POR15.
I will do this to the rear lateral link and the brace it mounts to,next.
I also picked up two front leather power heated seats and rear from a 02 max. Mint pictures later.
Anybody know how to hook up the auto feature on the drivers seat please HELP ME.
Been cleaning the quarter panels to fix also.
here is the crossmember ,fixed and sandblasted. Completely seam welded. And holes filled just left one on the top and bottom for foam.
and the middle brace under the car. they both had heavy rust and the crossmember in pic 3 had a hole of rust in that spot and was slightly twisted.
After pics were taken i marine cleaned these and metal prepped these pieces they are now waiting to dry.getting ready for POR15.
I will do this to the rear lateral link and the brace it mounts to,next.
I also picked up two front leather power heated seats and rear from a 02 max. Mint
pictures later.Anybody know how to hook up the auto feature on the drivers seat please HELP ME.
Been cleaning the quarter panels to fix also.
05-22-2017, 09:30 PM
#57
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Any other one they have is junk ,it also has a trigger,which helps a lot more.That model for the money is the only one to get.I think i paid around $110 after 20% off and they had a sale on it also.
you need a decent size air compressor . And you must keep it free from water in the air.
You need to also keep emptying water from the compressor tank and using water separators. One comes with the 110lb model.
There is a learning curve,and you have to protect your lungs.
06-04-2017, 03:37 AM
#58
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Well after putting some attention into the back of the vehicle i am finding the rust is worse than i thought.A lot of the rear is gonna get coated with a wax or petroleum product. At this point some of the rust can't be repaired without much hassle. So there a products that can stop it.
Also Ordered new evap bracket that thing is crumbling apart.
I noticed the plastic shield that goes in the wheel well isn't there.There are two on the 4th and 5th gen. I smaller one and a much bigger one. Bigger one wasn't on it.
I'am cleaning up the rear wheel wells now. I did end up ordering a new lateral link also.
And the lateral link bracket ,is gonna get repaired.
With the wheel wells i cut the worse metal out ,then re frame it so the shape is back.Then the inside will be filled from the back with POR 15 and their mesh.Then front covered over with fiberglass bondo.If you look at the 2nd 3rd 4th 7th and 8th picture the rocker is getting repaired. it was bad there.
Also Ordered new evap bracket that thing is crumbling apart.
I noticed the plastic shield that goes in the wheel well isn't there.There are two on the 4th and 5th gen. I smaller one and a much bigger one. Bigger one wasn't on it.
I'am cleaning up the rear wheel wells now. I did end up ordering a new lateral link also.
And the lateral link bracket ,is gonna get repaired.
With the wheel wells i cut the worse metal out ,then re frame it so the shape is back.Then the inside will be filled from the back with POR 15 and their mesh.Then front covered over with fiberglass bondo.If you look at the 2nd 3rd 4th 7th and 8th picture the rocker is getting repaired. it was bad there.
Last edited by krismax; 06-04-2017 at 03:42 AM.
06-09-2017, 12:46 PM
#59
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This is the reason why rad supports and these lateral links are so advanced with rust.
For the time they are on the car they shouldn't be so bad. I know why they are now. New lateral link received it.
I notice the paint on the welds, (in storage) has already failed. Welding makes metal very dirty,they did not cleaned the pieces properly before paint in the factory .
Rusty on these seem welds ,same seem welds on radiator supports and cross members.
It's to bad i have to media blast the new link. I'am gonna also finish the rest of the welding nissan didn't do.
Also picked up a new EVAP canister bracket. price around $38 .Link was about $115 ,courtesy nissan
For the time they are on the car they shouldn't be so bad. I know why they are now. New lateral link received it.
I notice the paint on the welds, (in storage) has already failed. Welding makes metal very dirty,they did not cleaned the pieces properly before paint in the factory .
Rusty on these seem welds ,same seem welds on radiator supports and cross members.
It's to bad i have to media blast the new link. I'am gonna also finish the rest of the welding nissan didn't do.
Also picked up a new EVAP canister bracket. price around $38 .Link was about $115 ,courtesy nissan
Last edited by krismax; 06-09-2017 at 12:49 PM.
06-09-2017, 06:18 PM
#60
That's pretty sad to see rust on brand new OEM parts. At least you're taking care of it. I put a few layers of POR15 on my radiator core support when I had that done about 10 years back, and now I'm even more glad that I did.
06-10-2017, 01:23 AM
#61
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About 9 years ago I was doing a partial restoration on '79 Lil Red Express truck and had bought some NOS mirrors for the truck that had been stored inside. Even though they were packaged up in the factory paper and stored inside, the chrome still had a few pits believe it or not.
Anyways, glad to see the work he is putting into this car. Most would not attempt this but, nice to see this car get fixed.
06-10-2017, 03:52 AM
#62
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I did something that almost made me part this car out.... I was welding and didn't even know it till a couple days later.
But i started the inside on fire,fire must have somehow got going then ran out of air in the cabin.
Ruined bottom seat rear ,pass front seat,right rear floor mat and carpet. Also burned up the right rear seat clip and also destroyed the right rear ABS harness. Burned up the plastic molding by the right rear door.
And the car smells like 1000000000 cigarettes where smoked in it
And there is a brown creosote on everything.I almost gave up but found a you pull it with 2003 maxima and begged them to let me take all the seats they are black leather mint.
Car wasn't gonna go in their you pull it area.Then or ever, not sure.They kept it to the side.
But they let me, and i got every part,i needed and more.
Got all seats,and multiple items for $165I wish i knew how to operate the auto seat position. Has the ECU built in the seat and everything.I think someone got it working in a 4th gen or something. If anyone knows please HELP.
Here's the pictures of the fronts out of the 03 max. They need a cleaning ,but otherwise i was shocked to see the great condition they were in.
06-15-2017, 01:11 PM
#64
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Well this is the second to last part to clean on the car . last part is the lateral link mount bracket.
Welded the last seams shut and the ends. Just finished marine cleaning parts.
06-15-2017, 01:46 PM
#65
06-17-2017, 05:16 PM
#66
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http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser_p_14.html
This is the step one of the POR15 process i still call it by it's old name.
This is the step one of the POR15 process i still call it by it's old name.
06-23-2017, 11:43 AM
#67
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Picked up some marine grade stainless steel bolts, nuts, and lock washers and washers.
Over 400 items for $26 shipped. gonna get other sizes to these are M6 x1.0 or what we think of as the 10mm socket. Very common in our cars.
I am sick of busted rusted bolts. all bolts taken out on my cars for now on will be SS or Ti.
Also picked up these been looking for a cheap replacement. They are all over our cars.
E bay " 50x 11mm Hole Cable Wire Style Car Trailer Zip Ties Wrap Push Rivets Clips" $3.79 shipped for 50
Over 400 items for $26 shipped. gonna get other sizes to these are M6 x1.0 or what we think of as the 10mm socket. Very common in our cars.
I am sick of busted rusted bolts. all bolts taken out on my cars for now on will be SS or Ti.
Also picked up these been looking for a cheap replacement. They are all over our cars.
E bay " 50x 11mm Hole Cable Wire Style Car Trailer Zip Ties Wrap Push Rivets Clips" $3.79 shipped for 50
06-23-2017, 12:40 PM
#68
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser_p_14.html
This is the step one of the POR15 process i still call it by it's old name.
This is the step one of the POR15 process i still call it by it's old name.
Now, tell us about where you got all the marine grade hardware from! I know with prices like that it probably wasn't from Fastenal!
06-23-2017, 03:04 PM
#69
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His prices are weird but this is a great deal.
100 m6x1.0 16mm
100 lock washers
100 washers
100 nuts
for $26.45 shipped
it has an offer but i take the sellers price when they have a good deal.
I have been looking for M8 and M10 don't need as many of those but looking anyways
06-23-2017, 03:40 PM
#70
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-100-M6-1...UAAOSw~OdVcGSE
His prices are weird but this is a great deal.
100 m6x1.0 16mm
100 lock washers
100 washers
100 nuts
for $26.45 shipped
it has an offer but i take the sellers price when they have a good deal.
I have been looking for M8 and M10 don't need as many of those but looking anyways
His prices are weird but this is a great deal.
100 m6x1.0 16mm
100 lock washers
100 washers
100 nuts
for $26.45 shipped
it has an offer but i take the sellers price when they have a good deal.
I have been looking for M8 and M10 don't need as many of those but looking anyways
Originally Posted by Smart people
Quote:
NASA Fastener Design Manual RP-1228:
"The lockwasher serves as a spring while the bolt is being tightened. However, the washer is normally flat by the time the bolt is fully torqued. At this time it is equivalent to a solid flat washer, and its locking ability is nonexistent. In summary, a lockwasher of this type is useless for locking."
Or the US Navy.
Quote:
Naval Ships' Technical Manual, Chapter 75:
"Although lockwashers may be encountered, using the flat washers with selflocking nuts, self-locking fasteners, self-locking inserts, or thread sealants such as MIL-S-22473 anaerobic compounds is preferable.
If loosening has been a problem, however, replace the lockwashers with self-locking fasteners.
The helical spring lockwasher (Figure 075-5-11) is flattened when the bolt is torqued down. Once compressed, it acts as a flat washer, contributing normal friction between the nut or bolt and the bearing surface during tightening."
Or the British Ministry of Defense.
Quote:
"Vibration Loosening of Threaded Fasteners (Light):
If the plain fastener is taken as the datum any washer reduces locking effectiveness"
The ASME also has a standard for lock washers. In that standard it states:
Quote (ASME B18.21.1):
"The word lock appearing in the names of products in this standard is a generic term historically assoicated with their identification and is not intended to imply an indefinite permanency of fixity in attachments where the fastners are used."
NASA Fastener Design Manual RP-1228:
"The lockwasher serves as a spring while the bolt is being tightened. However, the washer is normally flat by the time the bolt is fully torqued. At this time it is equivalent to a solid flat washer, and its locking ability is nonexistent. In summary, a lockwasher of this type is useless for locking."
Or the US Navy.
Quote:
Naval Ships' Technical Manual, Chapter 75:
"Although lockwashers may be encountered, using the flat washers with selflocking nuts, self-locking fasteners, self-locking inserts, or thread sealants such as MIL-S-22473 anaerobic compounds is preferable.
If loosening has been a problem, however, replace the lockwashers with self-locking fasteners.
The helical spring lockwasher (Figure 075-5-11) is flattened when the bolt is torqued down. Once compressed, it acts as a flat washer, contributing normal friction between the nut or bolt and the bearing surface during tightening."
Or the British Ministry of Defense.
Quote:
"Vibration Loosening of Threaded Fasteners (Light):
If the plain fastener is taken as the datum any washer reduces locking effectiveness"
The ASME also has a standard for lock washers. In that standard it states:
Quote (ASME B18.21.1):
"The word lock appearing in the names of products in this standard is a generic term historically assoicated with their identification and is not intended to imply an indefinite permanency of fixity in attachments where the fastners are used."
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm
http://www.eng-tips.com/faqs.cfm?fid=1257
06-23-2017, 06:11 PM
#71
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You're probably already aware, but lock washers are less than useless.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm
http://www.eng-tips.com/faqs.cfm?fid=1257
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm
http://www.eng-tips.com/faqs.cfm?fid=1257
I actually never use them anyways but the washers he gives are to big and the lock washers are perfect size to use.
I don't like to tighten a bolt that isn't a crown flange bolt(how most of the stock bolts are) into something, tends to dig and gouge the surface. So i'll use these little lock washers.
06-26-2017, 05:23 PM
#72
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Well POR 15 the engine bay after i cleaned it. And did the same to the front wheel wells. Didn't do everything just area that were rusty and in a high rust potential area.
Marine cleaned ,metal ready and then 2 coats of POR 15. Then POR 15 undercoating in the wheel wells.
Just undercoating the traditional way, actually Leads to rust growth underneath .
With this process ,and POR 15 says their undercoat is different. I have some hope.
Then i 3 M cavity waxed the upper and lower cavity's (frame rails). And i also did the rad support and the crossmember.
I did 3-4 passes full pressure. I have the wand kit 3 1/2 foot is the longest i believe.
It sprays out with a lot of force,at 360 degrees.So you pull it in and out as it sprays. It covers everything better than i thought. I went a little overboard
And last starting to put some more of the car back together.You can see in the pictures ,bolts and nuts being replaced with SS.
I don't like the way the SS feels when it is tightened. So i am using some locktight in some places.
Marine cleaned ,metal ready and then 2 coats of POR 15. Then POR 15 undercoating in the wheel wells.
Just undercoating the traditional way, actually Leads to rust growth underneath .
With this process ,and POR 15 says their undercoat is different. I have some hope.
Then i 3 M cavity waxed the upper and lower cavity's (frame rails). And i also did the rad support and the crossmember.
I did 3-4 passes full pressure. I have the wand kit 3 1/2 foot is the longest i believe.
It sprays out with a lot of force,at 360 degrees.So you pull it in and out as it sprays. It covers everything better than i thought. I went a little overboard
And last starting to put some more of the car back together.You can see in the pictures ,bolts and nuts being replaced with SS.
I don't like the way the SS feels when it is tightened. So i am using some locktight in some places.
Last edited by krismax; 06-26-2017 at 05:26 PM.
07-04-2017, 08:36 PM
#73
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Picked up a few things. Was replacing tie rods boots found power steering fluid in the boots
Well i guess the rack is old better to replace it.
Picked up one here OEM rebuilt in USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-NI...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up both Moog bushings for steering rack for cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rack-and-Pin...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up some shin-etsu silicone grease Honda people love it .Makes rubbers seals like new and stops squeaks in door sunroof ect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-...licone-Grease-
And picked up the Energy Suspension sub frame bushing kit.(thanks 95maxrider for the idea) Not 100% sure where they all go???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-S...72.m2749.l2649
Well i guess the rack is old better to replace it.Picked up one here OEM rebuilt in USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-NI...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up both Moog bushings for steering rack for cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rack-and-Pin...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up some shin-etsu silicone grease Honda people love it .Makes rubbers seals like new and stops squeaks in door sunroof ect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-...licone-Grease-
And picked up the Energy Suspension sub frame bushing kit.(thanks 95maxrider for the idea) Not 100% sure where they all go???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-S...72.m2749.l2649
07-04-2017, 08:57 PM
#74
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Putting car slowly together, the steering rack is putting me behind schedule.
Did some foaming with the 3 M foam. Front radiator support. I used 1 1/2 tubes and it almost filled it. I need to fill about a 4 square inch area. Between the red lines in the pic foam is not there.
The foam is way harder than expected,and doesn't have the volume i expected . I need to pick up another to finish.
I am gonna use this stuff for hard to reach area's, but stick with the mix and pour foam for areas like rockers things like that. Like it says it's for pillers things like that.
I agree, very expensive for the volume you get but perfect for area's that can't be poured.
This definitely adds a lot of rigidity. Another thing i noticed, the foam makes the metal pretty warm.This also helps alot to see where it is and isn't.
With this stuff, you put it everywhere. And let it come out a little, in a few areas, to see how it is doing.
It expands in a minute or two. Not really any time to take pictures.
Did some foaming with the 3 M foam. Front radiator support. I used 1 1/2 tubes and it almost filled it. I need to fill about a 4 square inch area. Between the red lines in the pic foam is not there.
The foam is way harder than expected,and doesn't have the volume i expected . I need to pick up another to finish.
I am gonna use this stuff for hard to reach area's, but stick with the mix and pour foam for areas like rockers things like that. Like it says it's for pillers things like that.
I agree, very expensive for the volume you get but perfect for area's that can't be poured.
This definitely adds a lot of rigidity. Another thing i noticed, the foam makes the metal pretty warm.This also helps alot to see where it is and isn't.
With this stuff, you put it everywhere. And let it come out a little, in a few areas, to see how it is doing.
It expands in a minute or two. Not really any time to take pictures.
07-05-2017, 05:58 AM
#75
Picked up a few things. Was replacing tie rods boots found power steering fluid in the boots Well i guess the rack is old better to replace it.
Picked up one here OEM rebuilt in USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-NI...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up both Moog bushings for steering rack for cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rack-and-Pin...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up some shin-etsu silicone grease Honda people love it .Makes rubbers seals like new and stops squeaks in door sunroof ect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-...licone-Grease-
And picked up the Energy Suspension sub frame bushing kit.(thanks 95maxrider for the idea) Not 100% sure where they all go???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-S...72.m2749.l2649
Well i guess the rack is old better to replace it.Picked up one here OEM rebuilt in USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-NI...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up both Moog bushings for steering rack for cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rack-and-Pin...72.m2749.l2649
Picked up some shin-etsu silicone grease Honda people love it .Makes rubbers seals like new and stops squeaks in door sunroof ect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-...licone-Grease-
And picked up the Energy Suspension sub frame bushing kit.(thanks 95maxrider for the idea) Not 100% sure where they all go???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-S...72.m2749.l2649
On another note, I wonder how that rack compares to the SE racks in the 97-99 cars. I have a Sentra SE-R Spec V rack sitting in my attic that's apparently a quicker ratio than the SE rack but I haven't gotten around to calculating the ratio or figuring out how to install it. See if you can calculate the ratio before installing it!
07-06-2017, 08:46 PM
#76
Father of the 00 VI
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They're very straight forward and should come with directions. Once you pull off the crossmember it will all make sense!
On another note, I wonder how that rack compares to the SE racks in the 97-99 cars. I have a Sentra SE-R Spec V rack sitting in my attic that's apparently a quicker ratio than the SE rack but I haven't gotten around to calculating the ratio or figuring out how to install it. See if you can calculate the ratio before installing it!
On another note, I wonder how that rack compares to the SE racks in the 97-99 cars. I have a Sentra SE-R Spec V rack sitting in my attic that's apparently a quicker ratio than the SE rack but I haven't gotten around to calculating the ratio or figuring out how to install it. See if you can calculate the ratio before installing it!
Just received them today. I guess there is nothing for the SUBFRAME??
This is a decent article shows 2000 SE is 16.6:1
2003 ser spec v shows 15.8:1 also the maxima is speed sensitive don't know about ser
http://www.motortrend.com/cars/nissa...n-maxima-se-2/
Last edited by krismax; 07-06-2017 at 08:51 PM.
07-08-2017, 03:19 PM
#77
Father of the 00 VI
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocar-Steeri...pXEsml&vxp=mtr
Well just found out this is the bushing kit for the 2000-2003 maxima . I received the 4th gen maxima kit.
The 5 th gen is totally different rack.I may just keep the bushings that are on the rack.they look good.
Well just found out this is the bushing kit for the 2000-2003 maxima . I received the 4th gen maxima kit.
The 5 th gen is totally different rack.I may just keep the bushings that are on the rack.they look good.
07-08-2017, 03:54 PM
#78
I must be stupid, i thought those bushings are for the subframe not the crossmember.
Just received them today. I guess there is nothing for the SUBFRAME??
This is a decent article shows 2000 SE is 16.6:1
2003 ser spec v shows 15.8:1 also the maxima is speed sensitive don't know about ser
http://www.motortrend.com/cars/nissa...n-maxima-se-2/
Just received them today. I guess there is nothing for the SUBFRAME??
This is a decent article shows 2000 SE is 16.6:1
2003 ser spec v shows 15.8:1 also the maxima is speed sensitive don't know about ser
http://www.motortrend.com/cars/nissa...n-maxima-se-2/
07-10-2017, 07:40 PM
#79
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Join Date: Nov 2000
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another snag the steering rack looks like junk, covered with walmart spray paint
Tried to go cheap but i am gonna get a cardone re manufactured costs a bit more.
Here's some progress pics
First 2 are a before and after just to show what i am doing. I have to speed up and get the car on the road because i am over budget and running out of time.
I will foam the rest later, so i can also check and see how the body repairs do. In relations to rust. if it comes back in some spots ,foam will make it hard to fix.
Posting more tomarrow
Tried to go cheap but i am gonna get a cardone re manufactured costs a bit more.
Here's some progress pics
First 2 are a before and after just to show what i am doing. I have to speed up and get the car on the road because i am over budget and running out of time.
I will foam the rest later, so i can also check and see how the body repairs do. In relations to rust. if it comes back in some spots ,foam will make it hard to fix.
Posting more tomarrow
07-11-2017, 06:08 AM
#80
another snag the steering rack looks like junk, covered with walmart spray paint
Tried to go cheap but i am gonna get a cardone re manufactured costs a bit more.
Here's some progress pics
First 2 are a before and after just to show what i am doing. I have to speed up and get the car on the road because i am over budget and running out of time.
I will foam the rest later, so i can also check and see how the body repairs do. In relations to rust. if it comes back in some spots ,foam will make it hard to fix.
Posting more tomarrow
Tried to go cheap but i am gonna get a cardone re manufactured costs a bit more.
Here's some progress pics
First 2 are a before and after just to show what i am doing. I have to speed up and get the car on the road because i am over budget and running out of time.
I will foam the rest later, so i can also check and see how the body repairs do. In relations to rust. if it comes back in some spots ,foam will make it hard to fix.
Posting more tomarrow