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Size wrech needed for front lower ball joint

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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 03:32 PM
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Size wrech needed for front lower ball joint

Hello guys, excellent forum! Glad to be here.

Anyone know what size open-end wrench do I need to buy to undo the big nut on the right lower ball joint of a 2001 maxima california? I have the tuning forks and the new ball joint, just need the right size open-end wrench which I don't have and a whole set of metric wrenches that size is big $$$ thanks.
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinemax
Hello guys, excellent forum! Glad to be here.

Anyone know what size open-end wrench do I need to buy to undo the big nut on the right lower ball joint of a 2001 maxima california? I have the tuning forks and the new ball joint, just need the right size open-end wrench which I don't have and a whole set of metric wrenches that size is big $$$ thanks.
You don't put a wrench on it.You get a socket on it with a swivel extension. It impacts off easily.

You want to strip it? Go ahead with a wrench lol
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 03:41 PM
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dupe

Last edited by maxinemax; Oct 5, 2016 at 03:45 PM.
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 03:44 PM
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I have a set of metric impact sockets (6-pt) that would fit it - so are you saying one of those with a separate swivel extension or a one piece socket/swivel extension combo tool. And no stripping it is not my goal lol
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinemax
I have a set of metric impact sockets (6-pt) that would fit it - so are you saying one of those with a separate swivel extension or a one piece socket/swivel extension combo tool. And no stripping it is not my goal lol
Straight extension that has the sloppy end. I've done it with a normal straight extension, but it's kinda tight. You can absolutely strip it with a straight extension if it doesn't want to come off b/c it's on the nut a little cocked.

OR you can be unlazy unlike me and pull the CV. It's not like it's much more work lol.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Oct 5, 2016 at 03:52 PM.
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 04:12 PM
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So somthin' like this is what you recommend; socket + swivel extension?
Attached Thumbnails Size wrech needed for front lower ball joint-socketext.jpg  
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinemax
So somthin' like this is what you recommend; socket + swivel extension?
Forgot about those. That'll work, too.
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 04:40 PM
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Much appreciated Child_uv_KoRn, thank you!!! Will post up how the job goes tomorrow. Maybe then it'll be able to make left turns without feeling like I'm gonna fly off the road lol.
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinemax
Much appreciated Child_uv_KoRn, thank you!!! Will post up how the job goes tomorrow. Maybe then it'll be able to make left turns without feeling like I'm gonna fly off the road lol.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 06:39 AM
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You can also look into a ball joint press. Most parts stores will loan one for free. It makes the job SO much easier than doing all that hammering.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Derrick2k2SE
You can also look into a ball joint press. Most parts stores will loan one for free. It makes the job SO much easier than doing all that hammering.
I just replace both arms for 75 or less. Ain't nobody got time for dat.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 12:30 PM
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I just did this job a few weeks ago as part of my overhaul on my '02 with 104K, and the ball joint nuts were so seized that I stripped the nut with an open wrench and ended having to remove the cv axles, hub, and spindle from the car and use a 19mm socket extractor and a pipe for leverage to break the nuts free. For me it didn't matter as I was changing the cv axles, tie rods, and control arms anyway. Just saying that those nuts are really tough and easy to strip, especially if it hasn't been done before and you've got decent mileage on the clock.
Old Oct 7, 2016 | 05:03 PM
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Well, after further review in the daylight I have determined the problem is the wheel bearing and NOT the ball joint. With the tire on, I can wiggle the wheel with my hands on the 12 and 6 o'clock position, AND the 3 and 9 o'clock position and when looking behind the wheel while wiggling, neither the ball joint nor the tie rod end is moving, but the CV joint is wobbling all over the place.

So what I intend to do is as follows, any suggestions or opinions welcome:

1. Disconnect the outer tie rod from the knuckle. Disconnect the sway bar linkage from the lower control arm.
2. Remove the saddle bracket at the rear of the lower control arm.
3. Remove the nut from the threaded rod that the front lower control arm bushing slides over OR remove the four big nuts that hold the threaded rod assembly to the underbelly of the car. This should free the lower control arm from the frame.
4. Remove the cotter pin and big nut on the end of the CV axle spline. Drive the axle out of the hub.
5. Remove the two nut/bolt sets that attach the knuckle to the strut.
6. Remove the knuckle-lower control arm as one piece.
7. Purchase new wheel bearing at autozone ~$35.00
8. Bring hub-lower control arm assy. to machine shop, have them remove and press in new bearing.
9. Re-install everything and hope it all works.

I would normally separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle, but like the above poster observed my ball joint castle nut is rusted/corroded beyond recognition and any attempt to remove it looks like stripping is a certainty. The other idea I had was purchase a used hub/knuckle from the boneyard, have machine shop press in a new bearing, then buy new lower control arm and ball joint assy. from autozone ~$100.00 and install that instead of re-using my original ball joint/lower control arm assy.

Thoughts on my procedure? Any suggestions for better/easier method welcome! Have never done it this way before, as when I did the ball joint on my old max ('91) the ball joint could be removed from the lower control arm by undoing three nuts ie the ball joint and the lower control arm were two separate pieces but on my '01 they are one piece and the castle nut is completely rotted out.

Thank you for reading!
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