Hi guys can anyone see anything wrong here this is a manual at 850 rpm

 

So, a month or so back I replaced my IACV. My ECM did not show visible damage or smell so I reused it. Took it to the local Nissan and they had to try a bunch of times and it wouldn't relearn idle. Finally it seemed to take it on the last try, but the ECM was bad because the problem continued.

Why are you relearning idle?

 

My engine keeps hunting at idle, but, she doesnt cut out anymore thankfully, however, she won't level out and when I try to run her through emissions she wont settle at 2500 rpm, she is fine up to 1500 rpm, then starts hunting erratically until she reaches 4500 rpm, where she settles out again. The car is off the road since march, I have changed IACV and TPS and cleaned throttle body. She is now throwing codes for front O2 sensor beside rad (bank 2 sensor 1), Knock sensor and the rear O2 sensor (bank1 sensor 2). Oh yeah and its throwing a tantrum over the aftermarket ECTS I put in I dont think she likes it so I will try a genuine one. Any suggestions welcome apart from setting fire to it of course

 

Hi guys I have been battling with this maxima on and off for the past 2 years I even had to declare it off the road due to it having so many issues it wouldnt pass a test.I have already spent close to €2000 on this car with rad support and trunk drop off panels corroded. Any way I discovered several vacuum leaks using the water bottle method, incorrect TPS Fitted ECT had failed so wouldnt relearn because of these. I also discovered my thermostats had both seized and were blowing the seals on the rad. My B2S1 was kaput also. Now she is running rich I initially thought maybe it was an injector problem but I tested all the injectors and found one had dodgy pins causing it to sputter. SO i replaced It. but she was still misfiring but the fuel trims came down from -19 to -10.2 on both banks. so after watching the great Paul scanner danner doing diagnostics I bought a labscope its only an ebay hantek but man what a difference for diagnosing problems I discovered my number 5 coil pack is misfiring changed the plug just to confirm and it made no difference. So I tried a used coil pack but it has the same problem low amps.I need to know if anyone has tried NGK coil packs. I have one on order because the originals are too expensive for me at the moment and a set of cooper NGK to match.

 

Why do you want to use NGK coils when the OEM coils (Hitachi) are almost half the price???
See here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tion+coil,7060 - it's $32 for the Hitachi vs. $54 for NGK.

 

Hi Maxiiboy I am using NGK because the opposite applies on this side of the pond I 'm in Ireland the NGK are €50 euro shipped and the Hitachi are over a €100 so I am going to try them with shipping customs and excise duty I am looking at €130 euro for one Hitachi. so its worth the risk I am just wondering has anyone tried the NGK and had issues.
Dar

 

130 Euro for one Hitach coil - that's almost criminal. Something is wrong somewhere! (perhaps Donald T. is right about excessive European customs )

 

unfortunately yeah the maxima is very rare here so it makes it an easy target

 

Try RockAuto - they may ship to Ireland, and I feel the shipping shouldn't be more than $50-$75.

 

Hi Maxiiiboy I literally ordered the NGK this afternoon Ill see how it plays out and post back. I kept trying rockauto website the last few days but I just cant get it to connect i will try now again.

 

I know Im resurrecting an old thread but there is nothing more annoying than not finding out if something worked or not I am glad to say that the NGK coil is a perfect match the amp ramp pattern is identical to OEM. hope this helps someone.

 

Wait. NGK CPs? It's just a relabel from something else, maybe hitachis (oem)? Also, your maf is bad if your problems aren't resolved. I guess they are?