So my I35 stalled on me twice this past week, something it's never done before. After a couple of minutes, it started up again and drove like nothing happened. The idle has also gotten rougher and the car jerks initially on hot restarts. The SES came on today along with the TCS OFF and SLIP lights. Didn't get a chance to scan for codes but all signs lead me to believe the infamous cam/crank sensors are bad. Going to order up all 3 Hitachi units on RockAuto tomorrow after I confirm the codes.
A lot of threads recently about these sensors going bad. Makes sense given the age of our cars.
A lot of threads recently about these sensors going bad. Makes sense given the age of our cars.
New sensors are installed. No more CEL and the idle seems to be smoother now. The stalling was intermittent but I'm confident it won't return.
Since the airbox was off, I also cleaned the MAF and *gulp* TB. Followed the tip about putting the key to ACC with a brick on the gas pedal to open the butterfly valve. Wasn't too dirty in there but I gently cleaned up the edges and made sure not to touch the valve itself. The improved airflow has made the idle a little higher now at 900-1000 RPM but there's no CEL and the engine pulls strong so I'm going to leave it. If I care enough, I'll do those pedal relearn steps later.
Since the airbox was off, I also cleaned the MAF and *gulp* TB. Followed the tip about putting the key to ACC with a brick on the gas pedal to open the butterfly valve. Wasn't too dirty in there but I gently cleaned up the edges and made sure not to touch the valve itself. The improved airflow has made the idle a little higher now at 900-1000 RPM but there's no CEL and the engine pulls strong so I'm going to leave it. If I care enough, I'll do those pedal relearn steps later.
Senior Member
Don't waste your money on cheap aftermarket O'rielly, Advance Auto or AZ units just do the OEM Nissan stuff Tri-City Nissan or Courtesy Nissan...Those aftermarket unit never make a year.
Senior Member
Quote:
this is very true, and it was almost a year, (learned the hard way)Originally Posted by CMax03
Don't waste your money on cheap aftermarket O'rielly, Advance Auto or AZ units just do the OEM Nissan stuff Tri-City Nissan or Courtesy Nissan...Those aftermarket unit never make a year.
Senior Member
Quote:
Not familiar with Tri-City, but Nissanpartsdeal has been a bit less expensive than Courtesy.Originally Posted by CMax03
... Tri-City Nissan or Courtesy Nissan...
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/
Senior Member
01 2001 Nissan Maxima Crank Position Sensor - Engine Mechanical - Beck Arnley, Delphi, Dorman, Original Equipment, Prenco, Ramco, Spectra Premium, Standard Motor Products, Vemo, Walker, Front, Left, Rear - PartsGeek
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/nissan/maxima/engine_mechanical/crank_position_sensor.html
Check out the Original Equipment here at Parts Geek!
It may be the actual OEM part.
I did buy a Genuine PCV hose and it came in a Nissan package!
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/nissan/maxima/engine_mechanical/crank_position_sensor.html
Check out the Original Equipment here at Parts Geek!
It may be the actual OEM part.
I did buy a Genuine PCV hose and it came in a Nissan package!
Member
Quote:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/
I just used them to buy $80 worth of OEM bolts nuts brackets plastic and hoses for my 03 front bumper lower radiator support job. Shipping wasnt cheap but its worth it because these parts were hard to find. Like the diagrams very helpfulOriginally Posted by Turbobink
Not familiar with Tri-City, but Nissanpartsdeal has been a bit less expensive than Courtesy.https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/