whats up guys i have a 2000 maxima se been playing with this car for 2 weeks so decided to give the forums a try.

problem: car sometimes starts normally will not and when it does start runs from anywhere from 10 - 30 mins and dies. car has to take a jump to start or battery dies while trying to start it. lights in cluster are on even when theres no key in ignition and all my power (doors locks trunk gas flange) on driver door wont work but door light comes on when u open the door. wtf? also once battery is dead u can hear engine control module relay clicking away located right under the battery in panel box. duno if thats something related or if its suposed to do that when the battery dies. thoughts?

list of new parts: battery, fuse for battery, ground cable for battery, alternator, oil / filter, air filter.

mechanic told me he thinks its my fuel pump but idk seems like an electeical issue but idk what u guys think? any feedback would be highly app. thanks

 

After checking the air pressure in your tires, everything else is out of your mechanic's league.

The lights being on in the instrument cluster is the indication of what needs to be fixed. This is not a typical problem and it is going to take some time. It is a possibility that the ignition switch is bad. It has multiple circuits and maybe one of them is staying connected when it is supposed to be off.

You can also try pulling out the fuses one at a time and seeing if the cluster lights go off. This would narrow the problem to a specific electrical circuit.

One thing to check is if the alternator is charging. When the engine is running, measure the voltage at the battery (or anywhere you want). It should be around 14 volts, give or take a tenth or two.

The relay clicking is probably because the battery is low.

 

ok so few things. pulled out every fuse, when i take #30, 31, and 32 out the cluster goes dim but doesnt turn off all the way. tryed starting it with each fuse out but nothing. checked all the fuses just becuz only found #16 broke which is the power outlet. also when i pull out fuse #30 a relay located right next to it starts buzzing like a mf.

as far as the volts for the battery got to my car this morning stone dead. car is located behind my job atm. when jumper cables attached with my 2nd car i got up to 13.20v. without cables attached battery v slowly goes down .01v about every second. cannot check the v while car is running becuz cant get it started today as i stated it (sometimes) starts but havent goten it to start for 2 days now. car will crank and crank and crank but no feugo

what should i look at next?

 

I just replaced the alternator on my 03. The symptoms were similar, when the battery was drained down low, the ECM and other electronics started malfunctioning. All kinds of weird lights. Having a cheap battery charger made it easier to diagnose. Because I was able to get a full charge on the battery, then test. I tested from the battery posts. Was 12.3 vdc off, dropped below 11v started, got lower and lower. should have been 14+vdc started. I also had my cluster repaired which caused a bunch of other issues including wrong fuel reading and a P0462 which mechanics were convinced was the fuel sensor in the tank. Nope, was the cluster. So it was 2 different probs causing a wide range of issues. After all that the battery ended up being fine.

 

To expand on my comments. The cluster repair for faulty fuel gauge and bogus problems caused me to run out of gas cause it looked mostly full. It was empty. Drop some fuel in it to be sure.

 

yes i thought of this 2 days ago when the car was last running. car read 1/4 tank of fuel so i put in $20 worth and am currently up to 3/4ish. i know for certain theres plenty of fuel in there.

 

when u say the "switch" u mean the actual switch and not the tumbler right? they have one at the parts store down the steeet for 39.99 so im thinking about swapping that out and praying

 

Yes I am referring to the electrical switch that is attached to the rear of the tumbler section.

If you want, you can plug the replacement switch into the car's wire harness and operate it with a screwdriver. Hold the switch so that the wires are towards the left and put the screwdriver in from the right like when you use the the ignition key

 

okay so i just changed the ignition switch purchased for 39.95. cluster lights are still on car still doesnt start. F*&$!!!!!

 

cars fixed bad ground to alternator.

 

Does the car have an aftermarket alarm or remote start system in it?

 

it has its stock alarm system. also no remote start

 

okay so i got the car started like i said before the ground to my alternator was loose also now the cluster lights are off like they should be.

next problem.. car ran GREAT for 20 mins after i fixed the ground. turned it off and came back a few hours later i turn it on the dash lights are all dim headlights dim wipers going super slow. after about 5 mins car stalls and dies and my battery is dead. also the air bag and seatbelt lights were blinking.

 

Your alternator sounds like it isnt putting out enough energy while running. even if you jump the car and bring the battery to full (13.2-14.4v?) the alternator can only fill the battery so high while still providing energy for the entire car (fuel pump, ignition system, ecu, radio, etc). If the alty is only making 11 or 10 volts its guaranteed to die while running, i believe the bare minimum to "run" is 12v.