Headers ses help...

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Feb 28, 2018 | 01:02 AM
  #1  
Ok so Glee has had the cheapo 95-99 eBay headers for almost a year now... I have researched my head off on 02 Sims whether buying or diy... Have the fellow orgers list for under $10 at RadioShack thread bookmarked with a corresponding Amazon shopping cart with all the pieces picked out. I really don't want to do Sims though. I have already ordered a package of stainless 02 bungs. Came with about 20 total divided out to 2 different thicknesses. I recently lost my fabrication shop job and am looking for another so welding the bungs on isn't possible at the moment and my tags expired last November. I had my primaries, which are heated plugged in. Datascan 2 showed I was leaning, my ses would come on after a few trips around town, and if I timed an emissions test right before it I fail for unready. I only did the headers for cat elimination as it's a 2k1 Cali (obviously) with 205k miles. It's been well taken care of and was a family members car first. I have a 2k fed spec 5 speed I later sought out and ascertained as my project car. So Glee is pretty much the daily family oriented one. My precats are fine with some minor damage from age to the front but no engine harm. Money is extremely tight and I have searched, researched, experimented, and now am reaching out. I know one thread mentioned specific locations to mount them on headers. I'm asking simply this... If I leave the 2 bung on the headers in place and anti foul my primaries to them, weld 2 more bungs in on behind each primary to install anti foulers with secondaries, and in turn leave everything hooked up. I have a test pipe in place of the main cat that has one bung that I have left the plug in seeing as I have spare weld ins and even went through the trouble of taking the heat shield off the factory cat that bears the Nissan crest, fabricated a bracket to it that would allow it to fit directly over the test pipe, and finished welding it already installed on said test pipe so when it settled it would be snug and not rattle. Already had the mirror test and it passed. But the 02 sensors are my problem now. I want advice before I start welding to this y pipe I know it wasn't cattman, obx, or warpspeed price. But with 2 Maxima's that in their own ways are both projects, a new 2 month old baby girl, the search for a job, the recent front in job that broke me, and the need to be mobile legally so I can assert my attention back to the 5 speed project. So far other than headers Glee has had her timing advanced by 2 degrees, k&n drop in, fresh iridium plugs, cleaned throttle body, iacv coolant bypass, unplugged electric motor mounts, vias fixed, new fan assembly complete, new alternator, battery, stereo with proper tie in with Bose, sealed kicker comp12 with 820 watt amp, new complete struts all around, new front forward, rearward control arm bushings, lower ball joints, hub bearings (all pressed by yours truly), wheel speed sensors (oops), stabilizer bar links, pb silicone with Teflon sprayed all new bushings as well as all old ones, idle relearn after timing adjustment, and sprayed the PB silicone deep down the ebrake cable and all on rear calipers e brake mechanism. Not to mention the headers and cat replacement which took place at work, after work, in the parking list because third shift boss was bored and wanted a pissing match, and in the rain at that. My passion and dedication is there. Ask my girlfriend how much research I do in here and the fsms for my girls and she will tell you how much ketchup the 5 speed driver's seat once received.
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Feb 28, 2018 | 02:30 AM
  #2  
Quote: Ok so Glee has had the cheapo 95-99 eBay headers for almost a year now... I have researched my head off on 02 Sims whether buying or diy... Have the fellow orgers list for under $10 at RadioShack thread bookmarked with a corresponding Amazon shopping cart with all the pieces picked out. I really don't want to do Sims though. I have already ordered a package of stainless 02 bungs. Came with about 20 total divided out to 2 different thicknesses. I recently lost my fabrication shop job and am looking for another so welding the bungs on isn't possible at the moment and my tags expired last November. I had my primaries, which are heated plugged in. Datascan 2 showed I was leaning, my ses would come on after a few trips around town, and if I timed an emissions test right before it I fail for unready. I only did the headers for cat elimination as it's a 2k1 Cali (obviously) with 205k miles. It's been well taken care of and was a family members car first. I have a 2k fed spec 5 speed I later sought out and ascertained as my project car. So Glee is pretty much the daily family oriented one. My precats are fine with some minor damage from age to the front but no engine harm. Money is extremely tight and I have searched, researched, experimented, and now am reaching out. I know one thread mentioned specific locations to mount them on headers. I'm asking simply this... If I leave the 2 bung on the headers in place and anti foul my primaries to them, weld 2 more bungs in on behind each primary to install anti foulers with secondaries, and in turn leave everything hooked up. I have a test pipe in place of the main cat that has one bung that I have left the plug in seeing as I have spare weld ins and even went through the trouble of taking the heat shield off the factory cat that bears the Nissan crest, fabricated a bracket to it that would allow it to fit directly over the test pipe, and finished welding it already installed on said test pipe so when it settled it would be snug and not rattle. Already had the mirror test and it passed. But the 02 sensors are my problem now. I want advice before I start welding to this y pipe I know it wasn't cattman, obx, or warpspeed price. But with 2 Maxima's that in their own ways are both projects, a new 2 month old baby girl, the search for a job, the recent front in job that broke me, and the need to be mobile legally so I can assert my attention back to the 5 speed project. So far other than headers Glee has had her timing advanced by 2 degrees, k&n drop in, fresh iridium plugs, cleaned throttle body, iacv coolant bypass, unplugged electric motor mounts, vias fixed, new fan assembly complete, new alternator, battery, stereo with proper tie in with Bose, sealed kicker comp12 with 820 watt amp, new complete struts all around, new front forward, rearward control arm bushings, lower ball joints, hub bearings (all pressed by yours truly), wheel speed sensors (oops), stabilizer bar links, pb silicone with Teflon sprayed all new bushings as well as all old ones, idle relearn after timing adjustment, and sprayed the PB silicone deep down the ebrake cable and all on rear calipers e brake mechanism. Not to mention the headers and cat replacement which took place at work, after work, in the parking list because third shift boss was bored and wanted a pissing match, and in the rain at that. My passion and dedication is there. Ask my girlfriend how much research I do in here and the fsms for my girls and she will tell you how much ketchup the 5 speed driver's seat once received.
I can't make heads or tails of your idea with the text all crammed together, but I can tell you what you need to do.

Install secondary bungs in a good location where the wires will reach and can be secured, so probably just a little further down from primaries (any shop can weld them in for cheap) and use the defoulers. You mentioned primaries, but you don't touch those.

These are what I use, b/c drilling them eats bits. https://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-oxygen-s...g/161119594890 Get two more unmodified defoulers and screw the drilled ones into them. Done.
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Feb 28, 2018 | 03:49 PM
  #3  
That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. Should I also use defoulers on the primaries?
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Mar 1, 2018 | 12:23 AM
  #4  
Quote: That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. Should I also use defoulers on the primaries?
I'm gonna get out my minisledge in a second...
Quote: I can't make heads or tails of your idea with the text all crammed together, but I can tell you what you need to do.

Install secondary bungs in a good location where the wires will reach and can be secured, so probably just a little further down from primaries (any shop can weld them in for cheap) and use the defoulers. You mentioned primaries, but you don't touch those.
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Mar 2, 2018 | 05:32 PM
  #5  
I'm sorry but by that statement I didn't know if you meant leave them plugged into the headers or what. Won't they get a wrong reading if I don't anti foul them? Take it easy on me I've been through hell and back with this car and the 5 speed. Still can't get the sunroof to respond at all and the abs light won't go away despite new sensors. The back break caliper issue I just resolved. It's been one thing after another man. I have been testing the sunroof ever since I got it. Just got done trying again. This car is a nightmare to work on. The 5 speed has no problem with anything I do to it. I don't get it
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Mar 2, 2018 | 11:03 PM
  #6  
Quote: I'm sorry but by that statement I didn't know if you meant leave them plugged into the headers or what. Won't they get a wrong reading if I don't anti foul them? Take it easy on me I've been through hell and back with this car and the 5 speed. Still can't get the sunroof to respond at all and the abs light won't go away despite new sensors. The back break caliper issue I just resolved. It's been one thing after another man. I have been testing the sunroof ever since I got it. Just got done trying again. This car is a nightmare to work on. The 5 speed has no problem with anything I do to it. I don't get it
Correct. Primaries are used to calculate fuel trims.

You need to check the ABS codes by shorting one of the obd2 pins.
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Mar 3, 2018 | 10:46 PM
  #7  
Which part do you mean correct by? To my understanding they also need the 02 foulers in order to keep from throwing ses light and running it lean. I can't tell what you mean. I had the plugged in with no foulers and now just have them hanging as they were causing me to lean out. I'm assuming antifoul as well? I haven't done that yet if that's what you were referring to don't touch them for. I'll look into the over short for abs. I have datascan 2 but it won't connect to abs of course...
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Mar 3, 2018 | 10:46 PM
  #8  
Any advice on the sunroof...
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Mar 3, 2018 | 11:08 PM
  #9  
Quote: Which part do you mean correct by? To my understanding they also need the 02 foulers in order to keep from throwing ses light and running it lean. I can't tell what you mean. I had the plugged in with no foulers and now just have them hanging as they were causing me to lean out. I'm assuming antifoul as well? I haven't done that yet if that's what you were referring to don't touch them for. I'll look into the over short for abs. I have datascan 2 but it won't connect to abs of course...
Primaries. You can't alter them in any way or it will never run correctly open loop.

Secondaries are only for emissions testing. They do not affect AFR. I don't even plug them in on my cars, anymore.
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Mar 6, 2018 | 09:09 PM
  #10  
Quote: Primaries. You can't alter them in any way or it will never run correctly open loop.

Secondaries are only for emissions testing. They do not affect AFR. I don't even plug them in on my cars, anymore.
I think you meant the primaries O2 sensors will never run correctly in closed loop if you alter them...The primary O2 sensors aren't a factor in open loop, but water temp is....
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Mar 7, 2018 | 12:43 AM
  #11  
Quote: I think you meant the primaries O2 sensors will never run correctly in closed loop if you alter them...The primary O2 sensors aren't a factor in open loop, but water temp is....
Yeah, figures I'd get em switched lol
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Mar 9, 2018 | 06:52 AM
  #12  
Here's why I'm confused. If I unhook the secondaries car will throw light. If I hook them up and hang them somewhere car will eventually throw ses. The primaries are the heated one's right? I've read and noticed via exhaust smell that hooking them directly into the ypipe bung will cause the car to want to lean out to combat what it thinks is going on. If I leave them hanging so to speak as well then she throws a code of course but smells like it's running richer. What you seem to be saying is to hook the primaries up no defoulers involved. No problem but I will still throw a code eventually which I may can test too soon and see if that works. But now my concern would be running lean and damaging internals...
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Mar 9, 2018 | 07:21 AM
  #13  
Leaving the primaries alone will not cause any issues, as in it will not make the car run any richer or leaner. As stated above, secondaries are for emissions. Therefore you can alter them anyway you like. A CEL is something to get used to with these cars. But if you really don’t want one, just get a 90 degree O2 extender. It will put the O2 sensor out of the exhaust flow enough to make it think it’s running efficiently
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