Looking at aftermarket flywheels for a 6 speed swap.
Best price I could find was $420 for one of these: http://www.nisformance.com/JWT-Flywh.../jwt-fly-1.htm

Then I found this: $308 https://www.enjukuracing.com/product...-350z-g35.html

Has anyone ever used one of these flywheels?
http://realstreetperformance.com/Pro...35-566105.html

 

Looks identical to the JWT and probably is since nearly no one makes aftermarket parts for maximas.

 

Thanks. Yea, I actually just found a source where it was 35%-%50 cheaper than what I found here. I'm going to spring for it before it disappears. I'll post the link after I order it. http://realstreetperformance.com/Pro...35-566105.html

 

I believe you have to move one of the sensor pickups if you want to use a 350Z flywheel on a Maxima.

 

LOL, I didn't even pay attention that it's for RWD.

He'll have to align it for FWD...

 

You have to sand, grind, file, or whatever your method of choice would be, the cps hole over a little bit. About 7mm. The rwd flywheel timing ring has a 17mm spacing while our fwd cars have a 24.5mm spacing. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...GEN-2-ONLY.pdf
And there also is the orientation of the flywheel so that the timing ring is being read correctly by the sensor. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...MAXIMAVQ35.PDF
To anyone that wants to use a rwd flywheel from a Z or G, you have to enlarge the hole in the aluminum bellhousing about 7mm so the sensor can sit where the timing ring sits. Also on the back of the flywheel when you go to put it on make sure you put the flywheel on so that the dowel on the engine (back of crankshaft) goes into the correct hole on the back of the flywheel. Some flywheels like the jwt have two holes. One for fwd and one for rwd. This flywheel doesn't have two holes. Just one for RWD. So what I'm thinking of doing is drilling my own hole for FWD. Also, don't forget the custom timing ring you're going to need to bolt onto the flywheel replacing the 3.5 timing ring. Now I just gotta find a clutch. Looking at either of these two: http://realstreetperformance.com/Pro...13-VQ35HR.html
http://realstreetperformance.com/Pro...R-VQ37VHR.html

 

My advice for a clutch would be a stage one unless you're going for a large turbo setup or maybe modifying heavily for drag racing to increase your traction.

The weak point on these cars will always be traction. You're going to spin the tires long before you slip a clutch.

I ran a stage 3 clutch for a while and it was so stiff I hated it. I ended swapping it out long before it wore out. It just wasn't fun to drive having to brace against the seat to push the clutch in.

I've done a bunch of drag racing on my Exedy stage 1 with drag radials and HLSD. I've never had a problem even with 6 or 7 runs back to back with no cool down. These cars require more finesse to launch and the lighter pedal helps. It's also easier to keep your line when whipping it around a highway ramp when you don't have to fight to shift.

 

It doesnt matter which alignment hole you use if you are going to be putting a 3.0 timing ring on there.

 

Well that changes things. I'm ordering it today!
And for the clutch, I do want a nice easy to drive clutch because I want to put a lot of miles on the car and we do have traffic times. I can drive anything but whats the point. I want something nice to drive so if I don't have to have a stiff PP / pedal then I'll be happy. Actually looking for a clutch for the first time you realize how secretive they are about the info. It's like a guessing game. What's your opinion on this one: http://realstreetperformance.com/Pro...R-VQ37VHR.html
Going to keep looking. BTW I think I have one of your rings.

 

Keep in mind that the stock clutch for the VQ35HR is already stronger than the stock VQ35 clutch. It's pretty much the same as a stage one for the VQ35. We used to buy stock 2006+ 350Z clutches before Ni$$an jacked the prices on them. They were the same specs as the Exedy stage one for a lot cheaper. Exedy was the OEM manufacturer for Nissan too.

A stage two for a HR engine may be the equivalent of a stage 3 for the regular VQ.

See if you can look at the clamping force for each stage including stock VQ. The clamping force will relate to the pedal pressure since none of the hydraulics will be changed.

Also keep in mind what a "racing" clutch means. You may give up some smoothness and durability over a "street" clutch.

Back in 2004-2006 there were a bunch of us doing a lot of research and experimentation on clutch upgrades for these cars. I can't tell you how many times I've had the tranny out of this car. If you search that time period for "clutch" discussions there should be some good info there. I was involved in most of the discussions so searching my user name may help narrow it down some.

There was really no performance difference between my old stage three and my current Exedy stage one. The stage three would bark the tires when power shifting into 4th on the drag strip while the stage one gives more of a chirp from the tires on the same shift.

The thing to remember is that a clutch is not a "performance" part for this type of car. It either works or it doesn't. No mater how strong the clutch is it won't make the car faster over any other decent functioning clutch.

 

For any lurkers reading this, the reason is because the 3.5 ECU uses the crank sensor at the flywheel for position, whereas the 3.0 ECU uses a flywheel crank sensor as reference for engine speed, and a crank sensor at the crank pulley for position.

Personally I used an OEM Z33 DE Clutch Disc ($118) and A34 Pressure plate ($157) on a RWD Fidanza LWFW for my swap in a 4th gen.

Also, if you use a RWD Pressure Plate on a FWD Transmission there will be some grinding required on the trans to clear the Pressure Plate.

On my old 3.5 swapped 5MT, I had a southbend clutch (stage 2 endurance) on there and the pedal feel was very light. The OEM clutch feel is much heavier than the southbend. I would recommend southbend if you are going aftermarket. They have full faced clutches that will hold some serious power and maintain streetability. https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/3711/

 

Southbend still top choice looks like. It's a vq30 supercharger estimating 380 hp 320 tq. I don't mind spending more but a budget buy would be nice.

 

Yeah if you're boosted then I'd definitely stick with Southbend. I went with OEM Z33 because I don't have any plans for FI.

 

Nice. I'll figure something out. Going to have to do a lot of reading. May just buy a 350z stage 2 disc (full face) and make sure the car works first.

And the flywheel, $207.64: https://www.ebay.com/itm/McLeod-Tune...IAAOSwDkVaLbNH