P0175 dtc only
12-02-2018, 02:16 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Boyertown pa
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P0175 dtc only
New to this group, I have a 2001 nissan maxima, don't know the trim level cause the previous owner debadged it. It is a 5 speed. I have been trying to get this car in perfect shape for the past year and a half. I bought it from an old customer of mine from when I worked at nissan, she currently has 271k and don't leak or burn a drop of oil. First issue I had was the iacv, replaced the valve (did the bypass) and put a used ecu if the same exact part number in that was tested and good, kept throwing the p0505, tried relearning it multiple times, code kept coming back so I gave up for a while and focused on all the other crap wrong. Removed the front exhaust and resealed everything caused the rear bank down pipe gasket was leaking, got all that squared away, then got low activity codes for the rear upstream 02, replaced that and then all codes went away for a while including the dreaded p0505. No more exhaust fumes and no idle codes. Then it started throwing a p0175 bank 2 rich, so I replaced the front bank upstream 02. No more more rough idle but the code keeps coming back and I'm leaning towards maf sensor, wondering if anyone had the maf throw rich codes? Revs over 2500rpm fine but it will stall after I high rev or if I push the clutch in and the rpms come down fast and it falls on its face. The previous owner did some retarded stuff like put a extremely lightweight racing flywheel in with a act heavy duty street clutch along with some aftermarket intake. Love the girl and she runs extremely well considering her age and mileage and I only paid 1000 bucks for it. This code is irking me.
12-03-2018, 07:20 PM
#2
I seriously doubt that the P0175 is MAF related as the MAF serves bother banks. The code is probably caused by a leaking fuel injector. Maybe the o-rings are the problem, maybe the injector. You can send injectors for testing, but that will have the car down for a good week. If you need the car, you will have to bite the bullet and replace the injectors and o-rings.
You can check the ohm readings on the injectors, they should read around 12 ohms, but even if you find one that is out of range, that doesn't mean that it is leaking.
You can check the ohm readings on the injectors, they should read around 12 ohms, but even if you find one that is out of range, that doesn't mean that it is leaking.
Last edited by DennisMik; 12-03-2018 at 07:23 PM.
12-04-2018, 03:55 AM
#3
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Thank you, I guess I will just bite the bullet and get new injectors. I was thinking maf considering the high rpm stalling where it falls on its face but that could be because of the ridiculous lightweight flywheel not giving enough rotational mass. What sucks is last year I had all the injectors out and installed new o rings cause the water valve hose busted under the lower intake. Oh well, it's a cheap old car, gotta keep her going. Thank you
12-05-2018, 03:04 AM
#4
Thank you, I guess I will just bite the bullet and get new injectors. I was thinking maf considering the high rpm stalling where it falls on its face but that could be because of the ridiculous lightweight flywheel not giving enough rotational mass. What sucks is last year I had all the injectors out and installed new o rings cause the water valve hose busted under the lower intake. Oh well, it's a cheap old car, gotta keep her going. Thank you
Ummm, lightweight flywheel is good. Several WHP are gained and revs increase/decrease rapidly making it much easier to shift. A high pressure clutch is useless, though. She'll never make over 200 whp with normal bolt-ons lol.
Those sound like maf symptoms to me minus the code. You could log the maf V and see if it's ****ing up with NDS2, but they're so easy to obtain, I just swap em. You could turn off that cylinder and see if the same thing happens when revs fall. Injectors are ridiculously cheap, so I guess it doesn't matter what way you want to attack it lol.
Oh, if it has cats, then they're probably clogged just from the mileage, so it won't rev up top. That also kinda explains the exhaust leaks lol. Usually that **** rusts up and doesn't leak until taken apart.
Those sound like maf symptoms to me minus the code. You could log the maf V and see if it's ****ing up with NDS2, but they're so easy to obtain, I just swap em. You could turn off that cylinder and see if the same thing happens when revs fall. Injectors are ridiculously cheap, so I guess it doesn't matter what way you want to attack it lol.
Oh, if it has cats, then they're probably clogged just from the mileage, so it won't rev up top. That also kinda explains the exhaust leaks lol. Usually that **** rusts up and doesn't leak until taken apart.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 12-05-2018 at 03:33 AM.
12-05-2018, 03:59 AM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Boyertown pa
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Well the cats looked good and they are not throwing any codes, it revs fine but it don't recover and stalls, only throws the code if it idles long periods of time, I'm not a fan of lightweight flywheels, the previous owner put it in and then parked it for two years because of trans noise (which states on the website not recommended for street use, gear train noise may occur). I was thinking it might be messing with the idle cause of not enough rotational mass. Leaky injector to me, I would think it would have hard start and misfire on startup after sitting cause it would bleed down the rail pressure and fill a cylinder with fuel. Idk, might swap out the maf before I tear the intake apart again. I run premium only and so did the previous owner. Cheap gas and misfires are what kills cats.
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