I can't pass smog (catalyst monitor)
11-24-2018, 10:09 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 21
I can't pass smog (catalyst monitor)
Hey everybody! I have a 2000 manual that has had all of the catalytic converters changed, brand new set of spark plugs, TPS was changed, and the catalyst monitor still won't set. I've looked all over the internet for the drive cycle, and I can't find it anywhere. I really need to pass smog already because my car is way past it's due date for the registration. Registration is already paid for DMV is just waiting on the smog certificate. It passed smog 2 years ago when I had the front converter changed. This year it didn't, and so I had the rest of the converters changed. Still not setting the catalyst monitor. I also changed the clutch out earlier in the year around February I believe. I read somewhere on the forums that when someone changed out their clutch it did the same thing to them where the catalyst monitor wouldn't set when it came time to smog. I've given up on trying to deduce this issue myself, so here I am asking for help :/ can anyone lend a hand on what I need to do to get it to pass? I know about spark plug fowlers, I'm trying to get this issue straightened out the right way 
11-24-2018, 11:40 PM
#2
Hey everybody! I have a 2000 manual that has had all of the catalytic converters changed, brand new set of spark plugs, TPS was changed, and the catalyst monitor still won't set. I've looked all over the internet for the drive cycle, and I can't find it anywhere. I really need to pass smog already because my car is way past it's due date for the registration. Registration is already paid for DMV is just waiting on the smog certificate. It passed smog 2 years ago when I had the front converter changed. This year it didn't, and so I had the rest of the converters changed. Still not setting the catalyst monitor. I also changed the clutch out earlier in the year around February I believe. I read somewhere on the forums that when someone changed out their clutch it did the same thing to them where the catalyst monitor wouldn't set when it came time to smog. I've given up on trying to deduce this issue myself, so here I am asking for help :/ can anyone lend a hand on what I need to do to get it to pass? I know about spark plug fowlers, I'm trying to get this issue straightened out the right way
Rear cat does nothing and you don't need cats at all. RIP.
I wonder if a sensor could be bad.
Did you unhook the battery for a while?
I wonder if a sensor could be bad.
Did you unhook the battery for a while?
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 11-24-2018 at 11:45 PM.
11-24-2018, 11:44 PM
#4
11-24-2018, 11:46 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 21
I mean lucky them. Every time I've ever gone they've always told me there's a problem here or there. My apologies, but I don't know how to tune. I've been wanting to learn, but I haven't been able to find a good software to start out on. Lean is more oxygen right?
11-24-2018, 11:54 PM
#6
Just for smog you could wire in an AFC and pull a little fuel or use e85 and dump some more in. Wideband with logging in NDS2 would work.
You don't need sniffer test on 2000, though, I thought?
You could try cleaning the sensor, but it hanging is suspicious. I'd reset ECU again and see what happens.
You don't need sniffer test on 2000, though, I thought?
You could try cleaning the sensor, but it hanging is suspicious. I'd reset ECU again and see what happens.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 11-24-2018 at 11:57 PM.
11-24-2018, 11:56 PM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 21
What is an AFC, and how do I pull fuel? I know what E85 is, but my car is stock, so I'm not sure if it can take it. I have no idea how they do the test. I just know that they said it wouldn't pass because the catalyst monitor won't set.
11-25-2018, 12:02 AM
#8
Don't worry about it lol. Have you done highyway driving?
Time to get an obd2 adapter for your phone, so you can check the monitors.
Time to get an obd2 adapter for your phone, so you can check the monitors.
11-25-2018, 12:12 AM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 21
I already have bluedriver. That's how I know all these problems, and why my catalyst isn't setting. Every other monitor sets except that one. mode 6 has told me all my voltages are perfectly fine, and they were after I had changed the TPS. At this point, the most helpful thing I need is the complete drive cycle for my car. AFC stands for air filter cleaner doesn't it?
11-25-2018, 12:10 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Hey everybody! I have a 2000 manual that has had all of the catalytic converters changed, brand new set of spark plugs, TPS was changed, and the catalyst monitor still won't set. I've looked all over the internet for the drive cycle, and I can't find it anywhere. I really need to pass smog already because my car is way past it's due date for the registration. Registration is already paid for DMV is just waiting on the smog certificate. It passed smog 2 years ago when I had the front converter changed. This year it didn't, and so I had the rest of the converters changed. Still not setting the catalyst monitor. I also changed the clutch out earlier in the year around February I believe. I read somewhere on the forums that when someone changed out their clutch it did the same thing to them where the catalyst monitor wouldn't set when it came time to smog. I've given up on trying to deduce this issue myself, so here I am asking for help :/ can anyone lend a hand on what I need to do to get it to pass? I know about spark plug fowlers, I'm trying to get this issue straightened out the right way
1. Start the car and let it warm up - until the water temp needle is 1/2 way up.
2. Drive to a near highway/freeway - never shut off the engine, do NOT coast, and do come to a Complete Stop on every light or Stop sign.
3. Accelerate onto the freeway at 1/2 – ¾ throttle
4. Cruise at 55-60 mph for at least 5 miles.
5. Coast down very slowly, in gear, do not shift to N.
My car is an automatic. In my normal driving, I regularly shift to "N" when coasting to intersections; this seems to invalidate the desirable driving sequence. Also, I just "start and drive", no need to warm up the engine where I live.
The FSM and/or the User Manual has a description of the "Nissan Drive Cycle" - I remember seeing it, but I can't find it right now.
11-25-2018, 12:34 PM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 94
I wouldn't disconnect the battery or erase the codes w/ a scanner. If you do that the readiness monitors begin again from scratch. That's going to put you back at square one. I don't think there is a simple set of structured driving patterns for completing the cycles. Just drive the car. Drive the way you normally drive. Freeway/highway, stop and go, slowing with engine compression (no brakes), idling, ac on, ac off, etc. If you want really detailed info go to page EC-70 of the FSM and start reading.
11-25-2018, 12:37 PM
#12
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Nissan Drive Cycle
I just found the description of the "Drive Cycle" by Nissan: See page EC-82 of the FSM.
The above page # applies to the FSM for my car (2000 Maxima), so for your car, adjust the page number accordingly.
The above page # applies to the FSM for my car (2000 Maxima), so for your car, adjust the page number accordingly.
11-25-2018, 09:23 PM
#13
11-26-2018, 03:22 AM
#14
And after that I asked about highway driving, b/c that's a condition of a drive cycle :P That makes sense if he's doing all slow speed stuff.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 11-26-2018 at 03:24 AM.
11-26-2018, 10:16 AM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,215
mine did not pass smog with a bad cat but i've heard that if you add some e85 it'll lean it out and help it pass.
perfect engine leak down is perfect just an old/bad cat.
There's an app obd auto doctor that will tell you when the drive cycle is done i did it for my moms versa took like 30 mins.
didn't know there was a drive cycle for a 2000 though.
perfect engine leak down is perfect just an old/bad cat.
There's an app obd auto doctor that will tell you when the drive cycle is done i did it for my moms versa took like 30 mins.
didn't know there was a drive cycle for a 2000 though.
11-28-2018, 01:27 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 28
If you guys aren't able to get emissions to ready after doing FSM directions then you've probably got a wiring issue. Some SES / CEL codes can turn on the light on every new drive cycle. Continuous monitoring. Some take be 3 drive cycle. I.e. 3 times you crime with emissions monitoring reading all complete. Shouldn't be any incomplete unless your scanner is incapsble of reading it. Either way it still points to wiring since the scanner can't pick up the signal.
I had similar issue. Could never get downstream sensors to read and when it did it was pegged at a value it shouldn't have been. Driving conditions such as high RPM (above 4 Grand) signal ecu to monitor the one o2 meant for it. Can't remember which bank. I'd pull all the o2 sensors n take a look and inspect egi harness aka fuel injector/coil pack, cam sensors harness. I had similar issue and found a bunch of stuff including damaged knock sensor, bank 1 cam sensor harness was showing bare wires, Crank sensor filthy, a bad ignition coil and a corroded ignition condenser relay wrapped in the harness. Good luck
I had similar issue. Could never get downstream sensors to read and when it did it was pegged at a value it shouldn't have been. Driving conditions such as high RPM (above 4 Grand) signal ecu to monitor the one o2 meant for it. Can't remember which bank. I'd pull all the o2 sensors n take a look and inspect egi harness aka fuel injector/coil pack, cam sensors harness. I had similar issue and found a bunch of stuff including damaged knock sensor, bank 1 cam sensor harness was showing bare wires, Crank sensor filthy, a bad ignition coil and a corroded ignition condenser relay wrapped in the harness. Good luck
11-28-2018, 05:30 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 232
Using your Bluedriver app, and looking at your Readiness Tests, is it telling you that O2 Sensor and O2 Sensor Heater are "Complete"?
The last I reset my ecu and subsequently performed the drive cycle, all of my readiness tests completed very quickly, in about 15 minutes. Very brief surface street driving and about 5 miles on the freeway.
The last I reset my ecu and subsequently performed the drive cycle, all of my readiness tests completed very quickly, in about 15 minutes. Very brief surface street driving and about 5 miles on the freeway.
11-28-2018, 06:55 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 115
Hey everybody! I have a 2000 manual that has had all of the catalytic converters changed, brand new set of spark plugs, TPS was changed, and the catalyst monitor still won't set. I've looked all over the internet for the drive cycle, and I can't find it anywhere. I really need to pass smog already because my car is way past it's due date for the registration. Registration is already paid for DMV is just waiting on the smog certificate. It passed smog 2 years ago when I had the front converter changed. This year it didn't, and so I had the rest of the converters changed. Still not setting the catalyst monitor. I also changed the clutch out earlier in the year around February I believe. I read somewhere on the forums that when someone changed out their clutch it did the same thing to them where the catalyst monitor wouldn't set when it came time to smog. I've given up on trying to deduce this issue myself, so here I am asking for help :/ can anyone lend a hand on what I need to do to get it to pass? I know about spark plug fowlers, I'm trying to get this issue straightened out the right way
I've always had luck with the following........
assuming you have no pending errors.......Try the following.....
1. start fresh if you have to.....reset ecu, using scanner or disconnecting the battery
2. perform a quick drive to warm up the car and get some of the basic test to complete.... misfiring, etc...
3. go home, or to a parking lot then load up the electrical system...lights, defroster, etc.
3. rev car up to 3k rpm and hold steady for 5 minutes. (park for auto, neutral if manual)
4. after 5 minutes, take the car out and perform your highway driving (hold around 55mph for a few minutes) and perform some coasting down without stopping
evap will run only if you have the right amount of gas and a working fuel sending unit ( the car will need to have at least a 1/4 tank of gas but no more than 3/4 tank) evap only runs when gas gauge is somewhat in the middle of the dash dial...
again, this has worked for me in my state, I usually get cars ready for inspection doing the above, the only time the catalytic converter test doesn't really complete for me is if the car has a hollowed out cat with non foulers. In that scenario, the car never throw a check engine light on but the catalyst monitoring is never complete but I am allowed one incomplete for 2001 model year.
11-28-2018, 08:12 PM
#19
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 28
Using your Bluedriver app, and looking at your Readiness Tests, is it telling you that O2 Sensor and O2 Sensor Heater are "Complete"?
The last I reset my ecu and subsequently performed the drive cycle, all of my readiness tests completed very quickly, in about 15 minutes. Very brief surface street driving and about 5 miles on the freeway.
The last I reset my ecu and subsequently performed the drive cycle, all of my readiness tests completed very quickly, in about 15 minutes. Very brief surface street driving and about 5 miles on the freeway.
12-03-2018, 12:01 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 21
I've always had luck with the following........
assuming you have no pending errors.......Try the following.....
1. start fresh if you have to.....reset ecu, using scanner or disconnecting the battery
2. perform a quick drive to warm up the car and get some of the basic test to complete.... misfiring, etc...
3. go home, or to a parking lot then load up the electrical system...lights, defroster, etc.
3. rev car up to 3k rpm and hold steady for 5 minutes. (park for auto, neutral if manual)
4. after 5 minutes, take the car out and perform your highway driving (hold around 55mph for a few minutes) and perform some coasting down without stopping
evap will run only if you have the right amount of gas and a working fuel sending unit ( the car will need to have at least a 1/4 tank of gas but no more than 3/4 tank) evap only runs when gas gauge is somewhat in the middle of the dash dial...
again, this has worked for me in my state, I usually get cars ready for inspection doing the above, the only time the catalytic converter test doesn't really complete for me is if the car has a hollowed out cat with non foulers. In that scenario, the car never throw a check engine light on but the catalyst monitoring is never complete but I am allowed one incomplete for 2001 model year.
assuming you have no pending errors.......Try the following.....
1. start fresh if you have to.....reset ecu, using scanner or disconnecting the battery
2. perform a quick drive to warm up the car and get some of the basic test to complete.... misfiring, etc...
3. go home, or to a parking lot then load up the electrical system...lights, defroster, etc.
3. rev car up to 3k rpm and hold steady for 5 minutes. (park for auto, neutral if manual)
4. after 5 minutes, take the car out and perform your highway driving (hold around 55mph for a few minutes) and perform some coasting down without stopping
evap will run only if you have the right amount of gas and a working fuel sending unit ( the car will need to have at least a 1/4 tank of gas but no more than 3/4 tank) evap only runs when gas gauge is somewhat in the middle of the dash dial...
again, this has worked for me in my state, I usually get cars ready for inspection doing the above, the only time the catalytic converter test doesn't really complete for me is if the car has a hollowed out cat with non foulers. In that scenario, the car never throw a check engine light on but the catalyst monitoring is never complete but I am allowed one incomplete for 2001 model year.
12-03-2018, 10:55 AM
#21
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 94
12-03-2018, 03:59 PM
#22
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 115
original poster never mention location but I'll have to assume they are in CA.
In California:
In California:
- Gasoline Vehicles
- 1996-1999 Gasoline Vehicles can have 1 monitor not-ready
- 2000 and newer gas vehicles must have ALL monitors in a ready state with the exception of the EVAP monitor.
- Diesel Vehicles
- 1996-2006 Diesel Vehicles can have 1 monitor in a not ready state.
- 2007 and newer Diese vehicles can have 2 OBD2 monitors in a not ready state
12-04-2018, 02:29 AM
#23
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 94
I was talking to a buddy who runs a repair shop and does emissions inspections. He told me that either rear (I'm guess that's downstream) o2 sensor can cause an incomplete, even if they aren't bad enough to cause a code. Also according to him the steady 50-55mph part is the most important part of the drive cycle for the catalyst monitor thing.
12-04-2018, 11:31 PM
#24
I was talking to a buddy who runs a repair shop and does emissions inspections. He told me that either rear (I'm guess that's downstream) o2 sensor can cause an incomplete, even if they aren't bad enough to cause a code. Also according to him the steady 50-55mph part is the most important part of the drive cycle for the catalyst monitor thing.
I concur. First thing I said, too. It seems like there's a window of slow response that doesn't throw a code and can keep it in limbo. O2 sim and be done with it.
12-05-2018, 08:21 AM
#25
Which fouler did you use?
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