so the other day I picked up a 03, not running, for cheap, so I figured I could get it going and clean it up a bit....I'm usually pretty good with this stuff, but Im at a loss with this one, so I need some help.
The car had been sitting for a few months, the previous owner said it ran fine one day and then didnt start the next. I got it home, got a new battery for it, and started checking everything, only code I have for it is an EVAP code.
I did try a new cranksensor just to check it out but no dice, I went through the FSM and did all the testing for a multimeter, all fuses are good, good power at the relay, relay its self checks out good, I do have power at the coils, good continuity from the ECM and coils...
now one thing that was bad, was the ignition condenser, would not OHM out or anything, now I have no idea if it could cause no spark, this is the first car I've ever seen with something like this.... Ive been reading about the NATs and the light does go out while cranking, and the plugs are wet with fuel.

Anything Im missing? anything else I need to check...?

 

Which EVAP codes are you getting??
There are nine of them (P0441 to P0456, see the FSM, pg. EC-336 to EC-402), so it's somewhat important to narrow it down.

 

I highly doubt it's evap related why I don't have spark, but I did notice some of the vacuum lines are pretty old, and cracked, which will be replaced. I'll have to check the code again when I get home.

 

You cannot test a capacitor/condenser with an ohmmeter. It takes a special tester. Some multimeters have it built in and it has its own setting on the meter. If your meter has a capacitor testing setting, it may take a minute to get a reading, it depends on the farad rating of the capacitor. For purposes of starting, unless the capacitor has shorted, a bad capacitor won't interfere. And since you have voltage at the coils, you don't have a shorted capacitor because that would blow a fuse.

Perhaps you might try checking the wires between the the flywheel crankshaft sensor and the ECU. Maybe there is some wire damage.

 

I tested it the way the FSM says, but I managed to grab a couple at a pullapart, but tried a few but no changes, I've also read that the crank sensor is not even needed for it to run. I did try a new crank sensor, but I have not checked the wiring from the ecu. I'm going to take out the cam sensors and check those. Just seems strange with no codes.

 

Does anyone know how much voltage is supposed to supplied on the signal wire to the coils?

 

In the 2003 Nissan FSM, it shows a 3 volt signal - EC-688 and EC-689. These are short pulses, maybe 2 or 3 milliseconds so you may not be able to see this with a dvm.

When I deal with a signal that is a pulse, I set my meter to AC volts and I will maybe get a reading, but it is nowhere near accurate. It just tells me that I have something.

The crankshaft sensor is absolutely needed. It is used by the ECU to determine when to fire the ignition coil. A secondary use is to make the fuel pump run.

 

Crap, I can't read.

 

You can actually test with a meter, it just isnt a very good test. If you check resistance, you will see it climb from none to infinity over the course of about 3 or 4 seconds. After that, it will be stuck at infinite resistance. If you discharge the capacitor (i used a penny or whatever crap i had laying around), you can repeat the process. In my experience, if the capacitor is able to charge, discharge, and recharge in this manner, its probably good. If you dont see the resistance rise to infinite, it isnt working. Again i wouldnt say this is a foolproof method but it was sufficient to determine mine worked - had the same results between my old condenser as well as the new OEM one.

In any case, a bad condenser or lack of one entirely wont stop your car from starting or running, so you could rule that out.

EDIT: I know OP mentioned that his spark plugs have fuel on them - but what does the security light look like when youre not cranking? Is it blinking periodically or is it on solid when the key is in the ignition? Blinking = good. Solid light = NATS is triggered and needs to be reset. If that is indeed the case, get your laptop, buy nissan datascan2, and get yourself a cable for the obd2 port >>laptop - youll pay half the amount youd pay the dealer to reset NATS and have a program that enables you to do all sorts of cool sht with your max.

 

light blinks with no key, when I insert the key it goes off, and stays off during cranking. I did get a brand new crank sensor from advance, but didn't seem to help.

 

what brand is the crank sensor? That could be the issue right there. You always want OEM with sensors, these cars are very picky, IIRC hitachi makes the OEM and can be had for like 40 or 50 bucks. Also did you check the wiring harness for the sensor?

 

it was a driveworks, I have the OEM sensor back in it right now, I did not have the chance to check the wiring from the crank sensor to the ECU, but the subharness is good. Are the cam sensors the same as the crank?

 

Wonder if it jumped timing..

 

 

The Nissan service manual is different for each year of the car. While most of the information is the same, the page numbers tend to be different. Sometimes one manual has info deleted from the previous year, sometimes there is info on a new feature, sometimes the order of stuff is different. I looked at the 2003 fsm because that's what the op has.

I got the 3 volt number from the pages I referenced. They show an oscilloscope pattern. Each square represents 2 volts. You may have to enlarge the image to see the scale notation at the bottom.

 

Alright so, Ive tried new cam sensors, and crank sensor, tried spare coilpacks and still nothing, I do infact have the .2 volts going to signal wire, but still its not sparking, I even tried a new spark plug in the coil while testing. Is it possible all my coils are fried?

 

Mostly the timing chain covers where the other grounds are at.

 

I did most of it, still a few things I want to check, and yes fuses where one of the fiest things I checked, I'll check them again to be sure.

 

took the ECU out (HUGE pita) and opened it up, and it was spotless... I also cleaned the grounds so their spotless, rechecked fuses....

Im running out of ideas of what it could be,

 

they told me on day it was fine, then they made a stop and then it wouldn't start, and had it towed back home, they did replace the alternator, and a cv axle, and tried some different coilpacks, and that when using starting fluid it would sputter, but I dont get anything like that.
I know for sure its getting fuel.

 

I was about to tell you not to bother with the ECU, but I got sidetracked .... So, I better do it now.
Verify that you do have (or don't have) spark:

• Remove one of the front coils, including the spark plug,
  • Make sure it's not wet with fuel ....
• Ground the plug (and get a helper),
• Crank the engine - not too long, you don't want to be dumping all this fuel into your cats.

Are you getting a spark?

• No spark: Verify that there is no spark across at least two other plugs. If confirmed, examine the primary ignition circuit. Otherwise, it's time to have a serious look at your coils.
• Spark OK: It's either fuel delivery or compression. My bet is on fuel delivery (injectors, or fuel pressure regulator)

 

I'm not sure if you read through my thread, but I've already done that, plugs are wet with fuel, and no spark whatsoever, hence this thread... getting power to everything I should be getting power to, tried different coils, tried different cam/crank sensor.... nothing.

 

My mistake if you did this already, but did you try a new OEM crank sensor? Could be that your old sensor was bad, and that the driveworks brand one you tried was simply trash and didnt work either. Also did you test all the cylinders for spark or just one of them?

 

I did grab a couple of oem sensors from pullapart, and tried those, nothing changed, I'm checking first 3 cylinders in the front, I may just replace the coil packs and new plugs anyways.

 

so I got the NDSII app, and was checking some stuff while it was cranking, and found that I was getting -7 ignition timing, and the timing from the cam sensors, is this any useful?

 

Yeah Im not sure either, Im going to take the intake off and check the rear cylinders, also I might as well do a compression test.

 

Having gone down, sadly, a very similar road as you are right now, you should definitely do a compression test on all of your cylinders before doing anything else. Who knows, maybe youll end up doing an HR swap too

 

Yeah I got new plugs, and found out what the issue is. There is something wrong with the connector behind the manifold, its the green one next to the blue one, when its held down and fiddle with it, I get spark, but its a pain to hold it just right. so I maybe just get another connector or just splice the wires together.

 

no its easy to get too, right up top behind the manifold, I'll probably just cut the plug and wire it directly to each other, until I can get a aftermaket plug, but since that only affects bank 1 why was it not letting bank 2 have spark? but after messing with it, bank 2 got spark as well. just seems odd.

 

yeah I tried, it was pretty clean, it was just odd because everything checked out with the wired to the coils with a multimeter, but only got spark when messing with that plug.

 

well it turns out I have almost zero compression one bank 1....

 

not sure, bank 2 has good compression but I have nothing in all 3 cylinders in bank 1, so maybe just that one side jumped timing?

 

Very possible, i had something extremely similar happen except it was bank 2 giving me problems. Considering the cost + labor involved with fixing that, now is the time to start looking into getting a new motor or a new car. Sorry man, I know the feeling and it isnt a good one. On the bright side its not a hopeless situation, just one thats a lot more involved.

 

im gonna do a leak down test and see if the valves are bent, if not then I could possibly just replace the timing chain, I was also wondering about the IVT control, maybe messing with bank 1?

 

 

well motor is toast, so I may just scrap it.

 

not really worth the time or money.

 

little dings and dents, nothing major, interior is...decent, seats are not in the best shape, but everything else just needs a good cleaning.

 

yeah. whatever you need just let me know, I may post it up for a part out.