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It lives! Runs great but it ain't screamin! ??!?? Long start, will not rev past 2100ish, no tachometer. WTF????
I thought maybe the green O2 sensor plug and crank sensor plug were misplaced as so many of us have done before as they are actually interchangeable (why, Nissan?), so I switched them and no change. I put about 10 miles on it tonight, got the tranny filled to proper volume and parked it. Then I pulled and saw all these codes and went yep, it's bed time!
Also worth noting, I used the same Torque app and scanned the car when I bought it in July before I pulled the old motor and none of these codes were present. Only the P0021 and 0022 cam sensor codes.
Pedal dance reset ECU. Crank sensor isn't working or bad wire. The rest are nothing. P0725 is also crank sensor.
You are the man! Crank sensor did it. This thing scoots! Tranny is learning shift points, power is increasing as I put miles on it. Sitting at 50 miles on the swap so far.
Perhaps it's been noted before, but just an FYI to those with any confusion as to the green, interchangeable plugs for the O2 sensor and the crank sensor: Bank 2 O2 sensor 2 has 4 leads, connect to green plug with 4 leads. Crank sensor has 3 leads, connect to plug with 3 leads. Not rocket science but I did in fact have these incorrectly labeled at first and plugged in wrong! Switched them up, installed new crank sensor and it fired up in less than a second and redlined without hesitation.
FINALLY! Glad to hear its up and running! Ill go ahead and let you bask in your victory for a little longer before I ask your thoughts on the entire project and the end result. I know first hand how good that sht feels after spending so long mucking with it lol.
No lights! Today, 1/30, after working out some bugs.
Duplicate photo but oh well. The connection point was rattle canned after this photo. Should last a while. This is temporary until I get my bus bars located and installed. Then all grounds will be individually serviceable.
DC Power alternator hard at work.
Not sure what I was focused on here...
Is there anything I can do to fill the void?
Today, 1/30 after new crank sensor installed and codes cleared with Torque.
Looks good. This is today, 1/30. Gonna have fun configuring and using NDSII. Key programming was a breeze.
Alt and starter power cable connections. All connections up top are temporary until my D7500 XS Power battery gets here. Then all connections will change to bus block type from Jim's Machineworx.
FINALLY! Glad to hear its up and running! Ill go ahead and let you bask in your victory for a little longer before I ask your thoughts on the entire project and the end result. I know first hand how good that sht feels after spending so long mucking with it lol.
I know right? It's only been like a decade. I just got to work and now have 70 miles on the swap. Runs like a dream! Trackmotive axles vibrate lol. Even being an auto, I actually unexpectedly broke traction tonight on the way to work. I didn't think I was even getting on it! The power seems to be presenting itself incrementally? I topped off the oil tonight before I left for work as well. So, total oil volume is 5.5 litres. Not sure what the tranny total volume is, but I added 7.5 litres ATF and it looks good. I bought a siphon hand pump to adjust as needed but it shifts wonderfully and seems to be within range on the dip stick. This thing has some torque! Which is exactly what I wanted. I can pull in 4th gear and overtake with ease anywhere from 40-60mph without downshifting! Fawesome! There is now a litany of items which need ticked off now, but those are all issues I can take my time with now that I have a rolling project. Can't open driver door from inside, have to crawl out passenger door, looks funny at gas stations, whatever, sunroof was intermittent and glitchy all day then spontaneously regained full proper functionality on the way to work tonight, gas door solenoid needs replaced (I have one), headlamp lenses need reconditioned, both brake stoppers were missing and my brake lights were constantly on (bought a pair while at the dealership getting an alignment today and installed so that's done), dash is all torn apart, still need to replace evaporator coil, need to at least get the fan back in so I have heat, need to gut both doors and swap everything from original door that came with car to new, dentless door I bought for fifty bucks from a local yard that happened to be the same color and everything, need to install driver door mirror, and on and on and on...
I'm going to put an order in tonight for Conti procontact 245/45R17's and 4 reconditioned 5th gen titanium SE wheels and get those road force balanced, the tires I have now are in great shape and will work great as spares but the car has been sitting for a while and I can preceive slight flat spots. New rims and tires was the plan anyways, the ride will smooth out tremendously, not that it isn't already smooth even with all brand new MT motor mounts. Speaking of motor mounts, the engine is solid when revved up. It doesn't move for ****. So I'm not at risk for a power steering pulley strike on the frame. I made plenty of clearance anyway for when the mounts start to wear.
S techs were no problem. Had them all replaced with the stock (most likely blown but not too bad) struts in about 6 hours. I don't even have bump stops or bellows lol. All the piston protectors were shot and either missing alltogether or just a bunch of rings so I tossed everything. Had it aligned today and we will ride like this til my coilovers come in. Rides better than many slammed cars and trucks I've had in the past so I'm no stranger to that. In fact, I prefer it for this project. Brings back memories CLUNK CLUNK SWERVE BUMP down the road haha, YEAH!
Happy camper and next swap will be 6 days vs six months! Want to say a big THANK YOU to those who helped along the way, you know who you are! We're far from finished! Insane stereo going in soon!
I know right? It's only been like a decade. I just got to work and now have 70 miles on the swap. Runs like a dream! Trackmotive axles vibrate lol. Even being an auto, I actually unexpectedly broke traction tonight on the way to work. I didn't think I was even getting on it! The power seems to be presenting itself incrementally? I topped off the oil tonight before I left for work as well. So, total oil volume is 5.5 litres. Not sure what the tranny total volume is, but I added 7.5 litres ATF and it looks good. I bought a siphon hand pump to adjust as needed but it shifts wonderfully and seems to be within range on the dip stick. This thing has some torque! Which is exactly what I wanted. I can pull in 4th gear and overtake with ease anywhere from 40-60mph without downshifting! Fawesome! There is now a litany of items which need ticked off now, but those are all issues I can take my time with now that I have a rolling project. Can't open driver door from inside, have to crawl out passenger door, looks funny at gas stations, whatever, sunroof was intermittent and glitchy all day then spontaneously regained full proper functionality on the way to work tonight, gas door solenoid needs replaced (I have one), headlamp lenses need reconditioned, both brake stoppers were missing and my brake lights were constantly on (bought a pair while at the dealership getting an alignment today and installed so that's done), dash is all torn apart, still need to replace evaporator coil, need to at least get the fan back in so I have heat, need to gut both doors and swap everything from original door that came with car to new, dentless door I bought for fifty bucks from a local yard that happened to be the same color and everything, need to install driver door mirror, and on and on and on...
I'm going to put an order in tonight for Conti procontact 245/45R17's and 4 reconditioned 5th gen titanium SE wheels and get those road force balanced, the tires I have now are in great shape and will work great as spares but the car has been sitting for a while and I can preceive slight flat spots. New rims and tires was the plan anyways, the ride will smooth out tremendously, not that it isn't already smooth even with all brand new MT motor mounts. Speaking of motor mounts, the engine is solid when revved up. It doesn't move for ****. So I'm not at risk for a power steering pulley strike on the frame. I made plenty of clearance anyway for when the mounts start to wear.
S techs were no problem. Had them all replaced with the stock (most likely blown but not too bad) struts in about 6 hours. I don't even have bump stops or bellows lol. All the piston protectors were shot and either missing alltogether or just a bunch of rings so I tossed everything. Had it aligned today and we will ride like this til my coilovers come in. Rides better than many slammed cars and trucks I've had in the past so I'm no stranger to that. In fact, I prefer it for this project. Brings back memories CLUNK CLUNK SWERVE BUMP down the road haha, YEAH!
Happy camper and next swap will be 6 days vs six months! Want to say a big THANK YOU to those who helped along the way, you know who you are! We're far from finished! Insane stereo going in soon!
If you need any parts ask, i have many maxima parts. From 89-2007.
Thanks for the offer! Not sure I understand your question though? How is what power compared to what 3.5?
I meant the 3.5 that was in your car. I would like a honest opinion on the power. Does it feel like adding a small turbo or does it feel like you added a y-pipe.
I meant the 3.5 that was in your car. I would like a honest opinion on the power. Does it feel like adding a small turbo or does it feel like you added a y-pipe.
Can't say. I never drove the car before the swap. I bought the car sight unseen from Craigslist in July, had it towed to my house, parked it, then ripped everything out of it soon after. Been working on it ever since. The engine that came with it was out of time and ran like complete dog ****e with not enough power even to reverse itself off of a car dolly.
I meant the 3.5 that was in your car. I would like a honest opinion on the power. Does it feel like adding a small turbo or does it feel like you added a y-pipe.
Its not a huge jump in power at all but its certainly an upgrade. I also added a LW flywheel and did the 17 timing advance along with my HR swap, but other than that everything else was left the same. To me it seems you get a lot more punch at the lower RPMs although that is probably because it has a working variable intake while my last motor had the VI deleted with a blockoff plate. The car feels much more bitey, it just wants to go all the time at basically any RPM and any gear. In my situation its hard to say since i have some stuff adding power in addition to the HR itself, but i would estimate its akin to something like a headers + ypipe upgrade on a stock car with just the motor and no other factors. Its definitely not like adding a turbo, thats for damn sure.
i think the main draw for the HR swap is that it has more NA potential with mods. Its just more flowy heads and intake as well as a very small compression increase. Personally i wouldnt do the swap if your DE is fine, JUST to have an HR motor and do nothing else, and expect that to be a big power difference - we are talking probably like 20whp. If you need to swap in a new motor for any reason though, HR is the way to go for sure, its not much more work than a straight DE swap and in my instance i was able to get an 2014 HR with 7k miles for $1000, which was only a couple hundred more than the JYs wanted for a DE with 10x as many miles. I think DE motors are finally starting to wane on availability and HR is becoming more and more available. Id also recomend doing this swap if you want to do the full bolt ons dance and shoot for 300whp NA, which to my knowledge isnt feasible on the DE. I guess it really depends on your situation. I wouldnt have done the swap if i didnt have a blown motor. On the flip side i know id always want it in the back of my head anyways because of the increased power potential with all the bolt ons ill be adding when the weather is warmer.
200 miles on the swap. Not a single issue. Car has power! With nothing to compare it to, I must say, this thing gets it! Great torque, great top end. Car idles as smooth as glass even with the MT mounts. Car runs just as smoothly throughout the rpm range. Funny you should mention turbo, krismax, as since I replaced the guts of the driver door yesterday and got it all cleaned out (broken glass for days inside it), interior panel replaced, mirror attached, and now I have full functionality of all windows and locks, I have noticed a very distinct, turbo-like whine coming from my engine and the only thing I can attribute it to is my big *** alternator! It's much fainter than a turbo, but the same frequency and quite perceptible. I think it's kinda cool! Adds to the sleeper persona. Well I just filled the tank with 93 for the first time this morning and took it to the car wash today for the first time ever I think lol. I'm extremely happy with this thing. I haven't had so much as a hiccup. No leaks, no codes, no funny sounds or vibrations, it just runs perfectly! It's so much fun to drive! Funny how things come around, this was my dream car in 2003 when I was just 20 years old, I just always seemed to end up with something else in the meantime! Glad I jumped on this deal. It really is a clean car. I am fortunate that it has no rust to be found anywhere, and that everything works! No funky gremlins so far. Looking forward to putting many trouble free miles on it.
I did a couple of WOT runs to 80 today before I ran out of road. Barely made it into 3rd before I had to shut it down. Notable tranny fluid odor and a bit of what I presume to be tranny fluid smoke burn-off while waiting at the light after pedal-to-floor action. I've noticed the smell since but it gets fainter as time goes on. I have the tranny fluid volume dialed in and it shifts beautifully. As I have no previous experience with the Jatco 4 speeds I'm not sure if it is behaving naturally, but based on my past car experience and intuition I think it behaves quite well. I did have one question regarding gear changes from 1st to 2nd during WOT; My tranny redlines through first, then rather than a swift impulse into 2nd, it eases into it and without losing a beat, almost seamlessly transitions into 2nd and the power starts to build all over again! It's crazy! Is this normal operation, or should there be a kick into 2nd? I like the way it is shifting, I'm just curious what normal operation is, or if this is indeed normal?
Shifting is very lazy on them, b/c grocery getter (and can get worse with age). It may be improved with different fluids. But a transgo kit is the only real solution. Using walmart dexron fluid and lubegard, my sister's 01 had a noticeable shift into 2nd, which is nice (less wear from that slow ****). It wasn't too bad with mobil 1, either.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 02-02-2019 at 12:28 AM.
I drove a 2005 or 6 or whatever it was Altima SE-R automatic for a week or so in 2006. Belonged to a friend of mine and she was out of the country. I remember it being a damn rocket ship, and I'm not that clear on the shifts, but I think I remember it being a slingshot into each gear? Not sure. I love the way mine shifts. I considered a trans go and have it saved on amazon or ebay or something but I'm not sure I want to trade quicker shifts for smoother shifts. This is supposed to be just a pleasant, economical, stately yet sporty mid-sized daily.
Trade smooth shifts for quick shifts, rather. It's 3am here. Also, tranny took 7.5qt Valvoline Maxlife. I'll drain it and fill it again in 3k, then again in another 3k.
It looks good ,southern cars are nice. I wish iwould have bought a 3.5 maxima if i knew about the HR. And did it up,but my 01 is a good daily driver.
I'am going to try to get something to work on again at a auction.
But i think you have more skills than you know.that's a lot of work,you did.
Thanks for the compliment! It was indeed a bit of work! Keep your eye on Craigslist as well. The 02-03's seem to pop up every so often. Are you a dealer? How do you have access to auction? Also, I need a few parts: I need the top bracket of the passenger side engine mount, the bolts to go with them if you have em, also need the top lid to the center console as well as the bottom lid latch. Let me know!
As it sits. Lookin good. Right at 500mi on it. No problems but POS starter that came with the car. Click, crickets... click, crickets... click vrooom! New one on the way.
Did you sand the mating surface between the trans and engine? A lot of people report problems after putting an engine and trans back together without sanding the mating surface. It creates a ground issue with the starter
Did you sand the mating surface between the trans and engine? A lot of people report problems after putting an engine and trans back together without sanding the mating surface. It creates a ground issue with the starter
I did not. No need to. I cleaned everything quite thoroughly, however, and currently have giant ground cables to the block, tranny, frame and battery. Zero electrical issues thus far sans old starter that I intended to replace but ran into a shipping issue and just ended up reinstalling, and it's only given me grief twice but started eventually. Perhaps I just need to put a few more miles and starts on a car that's been sitting for god knows how long. I have outlined my entire ground schematic in this thread I believe somewhere on page 3.
Addendum: On that note, it should be well understood, at least on a fundamental level, for those of us who do our own work that electrical devices require a ground path, be it internal or external, in order for current to flow. I've perused the engine block to trans mating surface sanding threads and I'm not buying it. Ground your devices properly and you won't have any problems. The entire unit is charged. Electricity has to go back to ground, always. Voltage drop tests are your friend. A lot of folks are quick to blame a layer of corrosion/oxidation between the mating surfaces without considering that in stock configuration there is only one primary ground cable from block>frame>battery, the rest being straps. The simplest solution in my opinion then should be additional, properly placed ground cables vs pulling a tranny.
I never bought it, either. Sounds like hooey (and I have some electrical knowledge). Why would I clean the two surfaces when there's a bunch of bolts holding the two together that have real contact with pressure (so if anything I'd clean the bolts/holes)? The problem is going to be the cables, not two surfaces that are going to oxidize, regardless.
Originally Posted by User1
. Voltage drop tests are your friend. A lot of folks are quick to blame a layer of corrosion/oxidation between the mating surfaces without considering that in stock configuration there is only one primary ground cable from block>frame>battery, the rest being straps. The simplest solution in my opinion then should be additional, properly placed ground cables vs pulling a tranny.
Ding, ding, ding! The strap/little cable are usually destroyed and small, anyway. Hell, even IF the mating surfaces would fix it, you could just make a U shaped piece of metal or short wire and bolt it around the two LOL. Never in a million years would I waste time sanding or pulling the tranny.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 02-07-2019 at 11:12 PM.
I never bought it, either. Sounds like hooey (and I have some electrical knowledge). Why would I clean the two surfaces when there's a bunch of bolts holding the two together that have real contact with pressure (so if anything I'd clean the bolts/holes)? The problem is going to be the cables, not two surfaces that are going to oxidize, regardless.
Ding, ding, ding! The strap/little cable are usually destroyed and small, anyway. Hell, even IF the mating surfaces would fix it, you could just make a U shaped piece of metal or short wire and bolt it around the two LOL. Never in a million years would I waste time sanding or pulling the tranny.
There are some BIG sanding threads too! Younger Maxima crowd a little different than older, wiser, roadster/rod guys.
Alright so I got 5 hundo on the clock and not a single issue. Not even a starter issue. Fires up as quick as a new Benz and idles and drives just as smooth. I still haven't floored it lol. I'm using the stock fans and shroud and am going to have to get rid of them soon and come up with a fan solution. My AC line set will not clear stock fans and it's going to start getting hot here in Tampa soon. In fact, the stock shroud overhangs the passenger side of the mishimoto radiator by like 3.5 inches so it's just gotta go anyway. With the dual core radiator the fans hardly ever run but I need AC because summer starts in freakin March here and I don't drive cars in which I can't hang meat during the summer months. I'm thinking about a couple of 12" Spal slim fans, a PWM controller (auto cool 85, https://www.autocoolguy.com/home) and to keep the profile down and make space between engine and fans, a home made shroud using this method:
Alright so I got 5 hundo on the clock and not a single issue. Not even a starter issue. Fires up as quick as a new Benz and idles and drives just as smooth. I still haven't floored it lol. I'm using the stock fans and shroud and am going to have to get rid of them soon and come up with a fan solution. My AC line set will not clear stock fans and it's going to start getting hot here in Tampa soon. In fact, the stock shroud overhangs the passenger side of the mishimoto radiator by like 3.5 inches so it's just gotta go anyway. With the dual core radiator the fans hardly ever run but I need AC because summer starts in freakin March here and I don't drive cars in which I can't hang meat during the summer months. I'm thinking about a couple of 12" Spal slim fans, a PWM controller (auto cool 85, https://www.autocoolguy.com/home) and to keep the profile down and make space between engine and fans, a home made shroud using this method:
AC line doesn't clear the blades? The shroud isn't important as long as most of it is still there.
It's just tight between the components. I'm running the compressor unplugged and ports capped right now. I'll know more when I go to install suction line but as it is, it doesn't look like it will clear. I'm centering the rear beam and having wheels and tires road force balanced today so I'll get to line set later this week.
I wouldn't be that concerned if I didn't spend $700 on it, but in the above pic (post #152) is a splash of coolant on the front of my brand new alternator. This likely due to what I suspect to be a pinhole leak or some anomaly in the t-stat hose connection directly above it, but am I looking at potential damage to my alternator? I get mixed answers no matter who I talk to or where I look online. As it sits, it appears to have been a one-time leak, and its all dried up residue?
This was first noticed a week ago and hasn't gotten any worse. It's quite bizarre, really. Currently are Gates hoses and t-bolt clamps. I have OEM hoses and spring clamps arriving tomorrow morning and I will get the car in the air and replace both hoses and clamps in the afternoon. I'll inspect the best I can while I'm under there. Thermostat was replaced while engine was still on the engine stand.
Given the t-stats most convenient location directly above the alternator, I can't imagine this not being a common occurrence within the Maxima/VQ community. What are your experiences with coolant on the alternator? Did it toast them? Did it do absolutely nothing? Did it give a an increase of voltage? Am I screwed? Did I just ruin the only component I DIDN'T want near a leak? I've been keeping an eye on it and it really isn't bad at all. I'm just so pissed about it. Voltage at the battery is still 14.7 and no other symptoms. At least I'm jumping on it and getting it fixed right away. I don't even have 1k miles on this car yet. fml. Stay away from Gates or any other aftermarket hoses and t-bolt clamps. OEM or stay home. I went OEM with everything else on this build but this, and I'm not sure why.....
Thank you Nissan for such a wonderful design in placing a giant, pressurized, fluid-filled tubing connection directly above the heart of the vehicle electrical system.
I wouldn't be that concerned if I didn't spend $700 on it, but in the above pic (post #152) is a splash of coolant on the front of my brand new alternator. This likely due to what I suspect to be a pinhole leak or some anomaly in the t-stat hose connection directly above it, but am I looking at potential damage to my alternator? I get mixed answers no matter who I talk to or where I look online. As it sits, it appears to have been a one-time leak, and its all dried up residue?
This was first noticed a week ago and hasn't gotten any worse. It's quite bizarre, really. Currently are Gates hoses and t-bolt clamps. I have OEM hoses and spring clamps arriving tomorrow morning and I will get the car in the air and replace both hoses and clamps in the afternoon. I'll inspect the best I can while I'm under there. Thermostat was replaced while engine was still on the engine stand.
Given the t-stats most convenient location directly above the alternator, I can't imagine this not being a common occurrence within the Maxima/VQ community. What are your experiences with coolant on the alternator? Did it toast them? Did it do absolutely nothing? Did it give a an increase of voltage? Am I screwed? Did I just ruin the only component I DIDN'T want near a leak? I've been keeping an eye on it and it really isn't bad at all. I'm just so pissed about it. Voltage at the battery is still 14.7 and no other symptoms. At least I'm jumping on it and getting it fixed right away. I don't even have 1k miles on this car yet. fml. Stay away from Gates or any other aftermarket hoses and t-bolt clamps. OEM or stay home. I went OEM with everything else on this build but this, and I'm not sure why.....
Thank you Nissan for such a wonderful design in placing a giant, pressurized, fluid-filled tubing connection directly above the heart of the vehicle electrical system.
rant over. thanks
You do know people drive their offroad vehicles through lakes, rivers and 5 ft of mud, right? lol
You don't have enough on there to make a baby cry.
All clean. All better. The hose connection at the thermostat was the source. New hoses and spring clamps from stealership installed. The takeaway here I suppose, is avoid T-bolt clamps. All 4 were markedly looser than when I had installed them 800 miles ago. They had loosened themselves. Spring clamps, after reading up, expand and contract with heat cycles and are thus far superior for dd applications.
Also, I was pleasantly surprised to have received a call from DC Power INC alternator guy today in a response to an email I sent him last night voicing my concern. He reassured me that the minimal splashing at the front of the alternator is no big deal. The rear of the alternator with the guts was never exposed, brushes weren't exposed, etc. We're still cranking out 14.7V so we are gtg.
01-28-2019, 06:57 PM
CLUNK CLUNK SWERVE BUMP down the road haha, YEAH!
