Cephyr13

UPDATED (Problem & Solution now listed in this post)

PROBLEM:
I have a 2001 Maxima w/ 200k miles that's misfiring. I thought it might be a fuel issue at first because I would floor it and it wouldn't have much acceleration for a second or two, then it would suddenly have full power. It was somewhat consistent. But today, I've felt obvious misfires happening. For instance, the car is idling right now and I hear it misfire randomly. No codes showing up when I check the computer.

A year or two ago, I replaced the plugs and coil packs. It could've been two years ago, actually, I'm not sure.

Before I go replacing things unnecessarily, what are the most likely causes for this issue with the Maxima?

Is this a common problem that creeps up?

Thanks.

SOLUTION:
I replaced the front 3 ignition coils and that fixed the problem.

User1

Clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks and intake air duct leaks post MAF (the accordion-looking boots rot and introduce unmeasured air). That would be my first cheap solution attempt, along with scanning for codes, of course.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Is the SES light on? If it's misfiring due to a coil or plug you should be getting a code.

Sometimes a vacuum leak doesn't throw a code. A vacuum leak will generally smooth out as the RPMs increase. Especially under acceleration. It will be worse at idle or cruising. It sounds like your symptoms.

With the age and mileage of your car it could be the boot, like User1 said, or a vacuum line. You can easily check for a vacuum leak by spraying brake parts cleaner around where you suspect a leak. When you hit the leak there will be a noticeable surge in RPMs.

It could also be the MAF. Cleaning it is a good idea and there's nothing to it. You can even use the MAF cleaner to check for vacuum leaks but brake parts cleaner is cheaper. Get two cans because it goes quick.

The fuel systems on these cars are pretty bulletproof. Fuel issues usually show themselves under acceleration when the draw is more. Anything's possible but it would be lower on my list.

tundrawolf89

My money on the cheap Chinese ignition coils that failed premature or the spsrk plugs fouling from the crappy spark the coils produce.

ukmastermind

Did u use Hitachi OEM coils?
2 generic no name coils have failed in my engine so far, causing intermittent misfires. I replaced all 6 with Hitachi's

Cephyr13

Hey, thanks for the input, guys. I was pretty certain it was misfires due to cheap ignition coils so I replaced the front ones and sure enough, the problem is gone. I knew this would likely happen when I used the cheap coils a couple of years ago, but the math works in my favor in the long run. lol Thanks.

User1

Clean the MAF anyway. Just kidding, good job. OEM is the way to go.

Cephyr13

lol True, OEM are definitely the way to go.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Was it giving any misfire codes?

Cephyr13

Nope, no codes whatsoever. Checked the codes right before I changed the ignition coils. I thought I got codes the first time I had a misfire problem a couple of years ago, but I can't remember for sure.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

As much as we preach about using OEM coil packs....and to stay away from the AZ, made in China, no name brand coil over plug ignition assemblies! People still go out and do that ill advised thing install NON-OEM coil over plug ignition assemblies!

Cephyr13

I think what I'm going to do in the future is just find the bad Chinese ignition coil and replace it with one of the OEM coils. That way, it's not a huge investment to buy them all at the same time. I think that's what diverts people from buying the OEM coils.

User1

I don't understand why. $360 for new, OEM coils is not a huge investment. Even poor people will spend more on fast food in a month.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine...frcectupt=true

chop_sooie

Well I'll play the devil's advocate role here, and say:

#1: Your math is off, it's $390 for six of those not $360.
#2: Poor people absolutely do not spend $12/day on fast food--or $90/week, or however you want to add it up. But even for those not so poor, coming up with $400 (or even $360) at once, in one lump sum, is generally more difficult than coming up with a few bucks a day for Sonic.

User1

How apropos of you. Thanks for breaking that down. I'm sure everyone else got the point.

chop_sooie

EXACTLY. That's a good and practical plan. Spread it out to where they are more affordable, since they are FAR more expensive-- a fact some posters on here choose to ignore.

Cephyr13

Technically, it's only the front 3 coils that are $65 each. The back three coils are $77 each. The total comes to approximately $460 with tax, not to mention shopping. That's nearly half a grand. While I can afford to do that, I'd rather not all at once if it's not absolutely necessary. Sadly, I had to buy the OEM back three coils all at once today. Cost me around $260 with tax, I think. Amazon had sent me all front coils, no rears. One the 2001 only, the rears are different than the fronts because of the different intake manifold. Sucks. I wish I could convert it all to the 2000 model intake because I hear it's more reliable and way easier to work on. Coils would be cheaper, too.

I'm having to spend $11 on a special relay on a circuit board in my E46 M3 because I don't want to buy a new unit and pay the dealer to program it...for anywhere from $350-$530. Can't stand dealers. So overpriced. But I can get the software to program it if I need to. Quite a learning curve, though. Oh, the things we do to save money.

User1

What month was your car produced? Makes a big difference.

chop_sooie

You're right I forgot about the rears being different than the fronts- they were like that on all the VQ30 and VQ35 engines not just 2001. The 99 Maxima I had with the VQ30 (3.0 V6) the rears were considerably longer than the fronts, but at least on the 4th gen you were able to access the rear coil packs and plugs without having to take the whole intake manfiold off. Not sure about the 5.0 gen (2000-2001) but I know on my 2002 5.5 gen you must remove the entire intake to access the rear coil packs and plugs, so you are pretty much "obligated" to buy all 3 of those at once so as not to have to go through all that mess three separate times.
It really is sad how petty Nissan got starting with their 5th gen designs trying to force owners to take the car back to the dealer for service.

maxiiiboy

The above is serious misinformation.
I recently replaced all my six coils with new Hitachi coils (OEM) for just under $200 (my car is a 2000, and for some reason my coils are a bit cheaper than those for a 2001, but still .... .)
Here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tion+coil,7060 .

User1

Nice! I've been slowly training myself to add rockauto to my normal search routine along with all the regulars, Amazon, Ebay, etc.. I've never used them before I started my swap last winter. They have indeed won the "who has the best deal for this thingy" contest a few times during my project.

Theslaking

Best thing about Rock Auto is they carry OEM made parts without the price tag. Like the Hitachi coils.

chop_sooie

It was most certainly NOT "misinformation" since I simply was quoting prices from the very link that User1 provided. If you found them a lot cheaper somewhere else so be it, but I never said "ALL OEM coil packs, from anywhere, will cost you $400." If had claimed that then yeah that's misinformation. I did no such thing.

Learn what the term "misinformation" means before using it so cavalierly.