chop_sooie

My right front outer CV axle boot is torn, is this a fairly easy and straightforward job to replace? Any reason I'd have to take the whole axle off or can I just remove the axle nut, push the axle back through the hub to free it up, and replace the boot? Thx

chop_sooie

P.S. I see where someone in another thread used EZ-tape (rescue tape) from Home Depot to fix a torn boot that seems to have worked well- is this a suitable solution anyone else has tried esp. if replacing the boot is more difficult than I am imagining?

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Depends how bad the tear is. 99% of the time, youll want to remove the boot, remove the grease, apply new grease, and reseal with a new boot. You technically wouldnt have to remove the axle from the transmission to do this, but considering how messy itll get and how confined your work area will be, it will typically be easier to pull the axle. You could just seal the tear with tape/etc etc, but if any contaminants (water, sand, etc) got into the tear, those contaminants will stay in there and decrease the lifespan of the axle - which is why you would want to clean and degrease it to begin with. Same thing with just replacing the boot - yeah you could do that, but it doesnt address the issue of contamination.

If this is an OEM axle, take the extra time and do it the right way by pulling the whole axle, cleaning and regreasing before applying the new boot. If its an aftermarket axle, save yourself the headache and just buy another one lol. It shouldnt be a hard job, just very very messy. You should be able to find a kit on rockauto that includes the boot, clamps, and new grease for fairly cheap.

PS: read up on what solvent you should use to degrease. Many typical degreasers will leave a film behind that inhibits the new grease from applying properly. IIRC, one solvent that is ok to use is alcohol.

chop_sooie

Thx- the reason I don't want to go through all that mess of removing the axle is because starting with the 5th gen Maximas they used a VERY VERY difficult to get to inner mounting bracket for the CV axle, older 4th gen Maximas it was fine but just like some other stuff on the 5th gen Nissan tried to figure out ways to make you have to take it to the dealer (rear bank spark plugs come to mind.). I'm not saying it can't be done or I couldn't do it but it's such a PITA I'd rather just replace the boot. I am almost 100% certain it's only been torn for 2 days I did it when removing the steering knuckle to replace bad wheel bearing.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

What do you mean by difficult inner mounting bracket? The carrier bracket on the passenger side axle? Ive done axles on 4th and 5th gens and i dont remember there being any significant difference, i wouldnt be surprised if they were even the same part. Just zip off the 3 bolts holding the bracket to the engine block, you dont even need to remove the bracket from the axle itself (which is the hard part due to rust) since you are not replacing it. IDR anything being in the way or PITA-ish about that bracket.

Unless youre referring to something else? In any case i would still advise going through the full set of steps if you have driven it at all while the boot was torn. A little sand or a lot of sand - your axle is going to hate it regardless. Like having one rock in your shoe or several - you dont want ANY of that crap in there lol

chop_sooie

Yes the carrier bracket. Look at any youtube video, look at this one (carrier bracket part starts at 4:50):


It is EXTREMELY difficult to get to unless you have the car up on a lift. They say so right at the beginning of the video. Let me guess-when you did yours, you had the car up on a lift.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Nope, im a driveway warrior, I never had anything more than jackstands and a piece of cardboard to lay on for any jobs Ive done - not even a garage to keep everything organized and out of the elements. I dont see how having a lift would make it any easier. Cant watch the video until later today (im actually in class right now lol) but i really cant imagine how it could possibly be described as *extremely* difficult. I wouldnt even say its plain, normal difficult. Annoying maybe, but its not hard. Just spitballing because again I cant watch the vid right now but maybe they did not use extensions + joints with their socket wrench? If thats the case then yeah, it would be a total nightmare. But if you have those (ie; the proper tools for the job) its pretty straight forward. Again going off old memory here but I dont see how it would be any different from a 4th gen, the process was exactly the same between the two 4th gens ive owned and my current 5.5gen and i dont remember anything hard about it at all.

chop_sooie

Has nothing to do with the tools watch the very beginning of the video they say it's very tough to do in the driveway but can be done.
Look I didn't just fall off the turnip wagon you're talking to someone who just replaced the front motor mount a couple months ago and just removed two steering knuckles to take them in and get wheel bearings pressed in, so I have no trouble doing jobs in my driveway, I also replaced the entire front suspension (control arms tie rods sway bar ends) on my 99 Maxima before this one, along with the struts on both cars-- hell a buddy of mine and I even replaced a whole automatic transmission on a 1999 honda civic in my garage, hardest job I've ever done (and it didn't fix the problem) but we did it. But I'm also cost and time- conscientious and if the boot has only been torn for two days and I haven't been driving on it I don't see what the big deal is about just replacing the boot, save some $$ and time IF it can be done while the axle is still on the car which is why I was asking.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

First off, my bad if i came off standoffish or sound like im implying you are incapable or something, not at all my intention. All im saying is that I have done it multiple times on multiple cars, back when I was a noob who knew literally nothing about tools and cars, when I was more intermediate, and more recently when Id consider myself fairly knowledgeable. The point i was trying to make was that its a job that you shouldnt have an issue doing, based on the fact that I never had an issue doing it.

I got around to checking out the video. No wonder they had a hard time lol, they picked the hardest possible way of doing it. As I stated above, you do not have to remove the axle from the carrier bracket to remove the axle from the car. You can just unbolt the bracket from the motor block, and remove that + the axle as one single piece. Removing the axle from the bracket is a huge PITA that requires lots of PB blaster, prying, hammering, and general f'ing around. However - since you are not replacing the axle, only merely removing it to service it, you do not need to remove the axle from the carrier bracket - you can just leave it attached, meaning it should be a fairly easy job for you since you get to skip the one single difficult step. LMK if you have any confusion on what I mean by all of this.

edit: the carrier bracket holds the axle by 3 bolts. The carrier bracket attaches to the motor block, also by 3 bolts. Maybe this is how wires got crossed?

chop_sooie

Gotcha- you did not come off as standoffish, I just wanted to confirm that I have done relatively tough jobs in the driveway I just didn't want to go to those lengths if I didn't have to. But if it's really that easy (which I suppose it is, I should have paid more attention to the video! ) I suppose I'll do it the correct way. The new boot I bought comes with a tube of grease and clamps so hopefully I wouldn't need anything else.
Thanks for your help, I am just a little too stubborn at times.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I'm pretty sure I commented on a thread just like this months ago *X files theme intensifies*. There's nothing hard about it. You just need a vice, so you can beat it over the clip. That's the only "hard" thing about it.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

It's exactly the same as a 4th gen,no different. For a 5 speed that is. I did my whole 5 th gen build with jacks,rebuilt the whole car,laying under it.

Take the axle out and bring it to an axle shop. For $30 the'll replace the boot. For the carrier gets some liquid wrench in there,pound it out with a wooden dowel,or brass.Should regrease the new one and polish it,so it comes out in the future.

chop_sooie

I've decided I'm just going to go the route described in another thread where a fellow owner just used EZ-Fuse tape on his and it was still going strong months later:




Went to Home Depot and picked some up today- I have a good feeling I'll still be driving on this same axle a year from now if not longer.
I watched a few more videos from the experts basically all of them said if the boot is torn but the CV axle is not clicking or showing signs of problems just keep going with it, which mine is most definitely not showing any problems, and the EZ-Fuse tape will help seal it better.
They're right- not worth going through all the trouble until it really needs it.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

The problem here is that nothing was done to address the loss of grease and potential contamination of the grease that remained. The logic from the “experts” is also flat out wrong. If your axle is clicking, its already too late - you cant just replace the boot, it means the joints are toast and you need a new axle. Addressing the problem when its clicking means you waited until its getting ready to fail and already passed the point of no return, and that it must be replaced, not fixed. You cant get new axles of OEM quality anymore either, all of out aftermarket options are pretty junk. Again, i still recomend you do the job the right way. Even without contamination (which is fairly likely) the loss of grease means less lubrication and shortened axle life. What you are doing is definitely a great stop-gap but i wouldnt call it being fixed.

DougR

If your joint is not clicking or making any noise, then in my experience you are fine because you caught it within 2 days. Pull out a sample of the grease with a Q-tip and rub it between your fingers. If it feels smooth, contamination is not likely. Home Depot tape is something I would try if I wanted to defer fixing. I've done boots on 3 different vehicles over the years. I don't think I ever caught a torn boot within two days. I found torn boots when I changed oil, rotated tires, or noticed grease on the wheel. I didn't always fix it immediately because I live in a city with a hot dry climate where contamination and subsequent rapid wear is less likely. I've never had a joint clicking, so I always rebooted the OEM axle. I'd wipe off most of the old grease, pack in new grease, put on new boot. Also did a split boot once when it was too hot to be working outside. Eventually replaced it with a solid boot when the weather was nice. Let us know how well the tape thing works for you.

chop_sooie

I went out this afternoon to wrap the boot in tape and discovered that boot is torn a little worse than I thought (perhaps from having to drive it to the store yesterday.) There is a nice tear now up by the inner boot clamp. I went ahead and wrapped the entire boot with the fuse tape, so at least no more will leak out- but I probably will go ahead and look into getting this fixed. The thing is I am not sure whether I am better off just having the boot replaced or the whole axle- everyone says the OEM part isn't available anymore and the aftermarket parts are all crap. I have no idea whether my axle is OEM-- the only thing I saw on there was a "REMFG" engraved on the axle and a couple of green paint spots around it that it looks like someone added. If anyone can cofirm that's OEM I guess I'll see about just having the boot replaced.
Slamrod I took a look at the carrier bracket you are talking about- I assume it's the bracker facing at a perpendicular angle to the axle itself, with the mounting bolts facing toward the front of the car? If so I suppose I could get that off without too much trouble, I can see the top mounting bolts pretty clearly but the bottom one looks to be a real pain.

chop_sooie

EDIT: Wow, just every video and writeup I see on removing this CV axle in the driveway say it's "extremely difficult" , "not for the faint of heart," "PITA" etc-- Slamrod is literally the only person saying it's not. I just think I'll take it in for this job. Sucks since they would have had to pretty much remove the steering knuckle anyway to replace the axle so I could have had them do this and the wheel bearings at the same time and paidd the labor rate I'm going to have to pay anyway without going through all the trouble of taking the steering knuckles apart myself last week to have the wheel bearings pressed in.
5th gens just seem to be pretty bad luck, NOTHING like the reliability of the 4th gen.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

Ive done to many to count ,4th and 5th gen.The only problem is tight spaces and you need the proper tools. It is a lay under the car job. I don't lay under jacks or jack stands. I raise it up on 6x6's . I 'am a big guy.

If the axle isn't stuck in the bracket i can take the axle off in 15 min.

If it's stuck in the carrier bracket,take it easy . Don't hit it with hammers and the such ,just tap the other side with something soft,against it. It is super easy to ruin that bracket.

Use some liquid wrench and or heat. The key is a secure car,because you may need to use a lot of force and you don't want it coming down on you.


But i recommend because all the fuss your saying about doing the axle, have someone else do it.

PS: I noticed that video unbolts the control arm. That's the long way. Just undo the tie rod from the spindle and take the two bolts out of the shock. Then the axle can be taken out of the spindle. Both side of the car must be up in the air. Sway bar has to much torsion on the ground.

chop_sooie

I realize this- that's the plan I was going to go with. The problem isn't the steering knuckle or the outer end of the CV axle- the problem is the damn carrier bracket. Slamrod is even saying don't even try to take the axle out of the bracket (which is literally what everyone else is doing.) I'm fine with just unbolting the bracket from the engine block if that's easier, but you still have to apparently pull/ hammer/ pry like crazy to get it out. The guy in another video I watched didn't care that he broke the inner section of the axle doing that because he was throwing it away anyway. But what about if you need the axle still intact if all you're doing is replacing the boot. That's my other concern- having to pry so hard I damage it. Why couldn't they just have KISS.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

Even though i can do almost any car work to my car. If i have dread and doubt about something ,i take it somewhere.

If the place is not good and in a hurry they will probably ruin the axle or the carrier. Ask if you can watch them do it.

Up north i imagine, there much worse to get out.
I have had them pull right out like the passenger side.It may come out easy for you.Like i said when i put them in a grease them,and polish,with scotch wheel.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I use a chisel to break it out of the carrier. I bang up on an ear to rotate it, so it breaks the oxidation, then drive it out.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Ive removed the axle from the carrier bracket while it was all on the car, and ive removed the bracket with the axle as one piece and seperated them off the car. I prefer the later because you are no longer under the car working in a confined area. You still need to hammer and pry and use heat + penetrant to seperate them, i just find it easy to do when im not laying on my back

In any case i think you are really caught up on something that doesnt even matter for your instance. You are not replacing the axle, only replacing the boot - correct? If thats the case, you dont need to seperate the carrier bracket from the axle. You just need to get the axle off the car, and whether or not the carrier bracket is still attached is irrelevant.

Since thats the case, i recomend just removing axle + bracket together, removing the torn boot, degreasing/cleaning the joint, regreasing, installing the new boot, and finally putting the axle + bracket back onto the car together. You never need to seperate them since you are keeping that axle, so why fuss?

MichMaxFan

I might be doing the axle job this summer. Never done it before and it does read on many threads like a pain.

But in the app's case I don't see why one would not bother to separate the carrier and grease and reinstall for the inevitable axle replaces some time in the future. The axle would be out. Do it right and grease it for the next repair. I would have to or i couldn't sleep at night.

chop_sooie

I know I'm just egging UKwhatever on.

Back on topic-- it seems I can get a replacement Cardone Select cv axle for $115 from OReillys--but then I looked at rockauto and it appears they have the exact same axle (same brand and part # anyway) for only $50! Even with shipping that comes out to half of what O'Reilly wants- what are yall's opinions?

OReilly:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...=cv+axle&pos=6

Rockauto:

https://www.rockauto.com/?mfr=CARDONE&partnum=666190

The Cardone seems to be a good choice (same as Import Direct or Sutrack) based on the stuff I read in CS_AR's thread regarding axle replacement.

User1

Politics aside, what's all the hoo-ha with axles?

1) Axles for these cars are $150 bux a pair. Even if you're replacing them once a year (you won't), at that price, who gives a $hit? Get a paper route or something. You can afford $13 bucks a month for new axles every year (you won't be replacing them once a year). I have 4500 miles on these slammed on S Tech springs. Very slight, transient vibration between 45-50mph, otherwise, they are awesome. Point is, it doesn't matter what brand. It's all the same scheisse.

2) I've had both of my axles out 4 times since February 1st. I can have both axles out in 15 minutes from car on the ground to car on jack stands with no axles in it. There's nothing to it. Stop reading the internet, jack your car up, stick some tools and eyeballs up in there and get it done. I gather you're not a millennial, so I have faith in your ability to figure it out.

3) Pro tips for axle removal:
a) Firstly, you don't need to worry about removing the knuckles. Remove the two lower strut bolts and the outer tie rod and the axle will push through the hub and be free to remove.
b) A three pound sledge and an authoritative tap to the axle end (you're replacing, no need to worry about threads) will aid in freeing the outer axle end from the hub if it has been in there a while. Do this before you remove lower strut fasteners.
c) All you need to know (other than the obvious -unless you're a millennial, in which case nothing is obvious- remove wheels, drain fluid, don't let the car fall on you and die, etc.) to remove/replace driver axle is noted in point "a". It's that easy. A big flat head screwdriver to pry the axle out between axle and tranny makes life easy. You'll hear and feel a slight "pop", then yank it out. I push the screwdriver in slightly, give it a slight twist and it pops free.
d) Passenger side will only give you grief if it's seized inside the carrier bearing and the three carrier bearing fasteners are corrosion welded to the bracket, but even then, no big deal. Use tools, along with your brain, piece of cake. I have never removed the carrier bearing bracket from the block when removing passenger axle and find it useful (useful unlike millennials) to leave installed while reinstalling the new axle.
e) Depending on how effed up your undercarriage is with corrosion, the three, ten millimeter bracket to carrier bearing fasteners will probably be the most difficult part of the job, but it is absolutely doable, and once you get your system down the first time, subsequent failures to remove if necessary will be the result of laziness and procrastination vs the anxiety and fear of the unknown. First time is the hardest, but I can easily reach all three and use a 1/4 drive ratchet, extensions, socket and box end to reach them.
f) I scratched clean the inner surface of the carrier bearing and used assembly grease on the inside of carrier bearing bracket and outer axle splines.
g) Put it all back together in reverse order, crack one open and resume millennial smack talk.

Finito.

chop_sooie

Wow, what a complete load of BS. Even the resident CV axle removal experts would disagree with you on several points above. 15 minutes? Complete and utter BS but then everyone reading your diarrhea spewing above knows that already. Just simply pry the axle out with a screwdriver? Another load of horses^^%. Both of your axles out 4 tmes since February? What possible reason could there be for that? That's right none- which means another load.
I can't believe the claims some people make on here just as a result of wanting attention.

chop_sooie

Oh and something else USER1:
If you even bothered to read CS-AR's thread regarding CV axle replacement I referenced above, you'd know that part of the reason for his input on the subject was the fact that the first set he bought lasted all of 3 months before the boots tore. So yeah, it most definitely IS possible that I'd have to be back in there in way less than a year. But then, you didn't bother to do the research-- why am I not surprised.

User1

You have issues, sir. With your record of expelling undeserved hostility towards other members, I'm surprised how many of those I know through my swap thread, among other threads of mine over the last 10 months have put up with your attitude in the last few weeks. Can't wait to see the responses you're about to receive for this one. Everything I said in my response was true and correct. The references to mindless millennials were all in jest and the procedural information is based on my experience with this specific vehicle and is easily corroborated by any member who's done the job. You've unjustly been head to head with just about everyone you've come into contact with on this forum, even the ones who try to help you. Won't be long before they all go dark on you. Good riddance.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

In all seriousness though just pay someone to do it for you because you are clearly giving up before even making an attempt. Clearly you know better than all the people who have actually done the job several times despite never having done it yourself so i guess there is nothing left to discuss here.

chop_sooie

Look I have little doubt most of the people who responded in this thread have in fact done a CV axle replacement. What I have a problem with is the outrageous claims that folks are making (15 minutes, 4 times since Feb, nothing PITA-ish about that bracket, "I didn't have a problem at all with it" etc.) that are not backed up by any evidence whatsoever (photos, video etc,) That's why I'm hesitant--because it's a whole hell of a lot easier to believe an actual VIDEO demonstrating the procedure, and out of the several I've seen literelly EVERY single one says the exact opposite from what you all are positing-- that it indeed IS difficult and a PITA. It's way easier to believe them because they're SHOWING it. See the difference there? If one of you had just come on here and been honest and said "yeah it really is a kind of tough job, but here's how you manage through it"--OR if one of you had backed up your claims of the ease of the job with documentation-- I would have been a lot more willing to go along with it. But when you start posting drivel like User1 did, making claims that stretch the limits of believability or arguing with the videos that actually SHOW the procedure and why it's so difficult, its very tough for me to side with you. That's why I'm hesitant about it- because all you did is make an already tough decision for me a lot more questionable. I want to do it myself but you all (maybe without realizing it) are actually giving me MORE doubt about it, not less.
If it REALLY only takes 15 minutes and is a piece of cake, how about you go back out and just do an axle removal for me (passenger side) and take some photos or video of the procedure as you're doing it. That would be immensely helpful and prove your point at the same time.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

If you live in the rust belt the carrier will be stuck and you have to beat it out. Not a big deal when you know the right technique. It was a pain in the ***...except I've done it several times and I gave you the exact information to make it easy (or you can remove the bracket and deal with it). The three bolts holding it in the carrier aren't hard. You just need 1/4 ratchet with a combo of extensions and I think a swivel for one bolt. It's tight, but I can do it with gorilla hands. After that, if you're a big sissy, have someone pull the knuckle out of the way, so you can slip the spline out. Then you just stick it in a vice, beat it over the circlip with a 2x4 as the buffer and you're ready to finish the job.

If you have low confidence in yourself, then that is the problem. There's nothing ridiculously difficult to do on these cars. The limitation is mental (unless you're just a complete idiot that breaks everything they touch and have no common sense).
The first "big thing" I did was to pull the engine and tranny by myself. It. Was. Cake. At first, I was concerned given my lack of experience, but if you just nut up instead of cry babying, it's all simple. The brain is for problem solving and it really is as simple as using it.

As far as I can tell old people are the majority idiot apple lovers. College hipsters are the idiots you're thinking of. Nothing has changed there. There's always been a group of idiots with no knowledge that think they're cool.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Why dont you just nut up and give it a try? Whats the worst that happens? You arent able to remove it? Its not like your car will burst into flames or something. You are failing to realize that everyone here helps out and shares info simply just to be helpful. What they give is what you get - demanding people to "prove" their experience by making you a personal video solely to satisfy your desires is just plain nuts. If you choose to not believe people here, which by the way, is a forum dedicated strictly to nissan maximas - and choose to go with a video of your own choosing, so be it. Life will go on. No one here needs to prove anything to you though. In User1's case, if you knew the details (ie; he just finished doing a HR motor swap a few months ago, had issues with the transmission/differential seals leaking and had to remove his axles several times to diagnose and fix it, the fact he lives somewhere without rust) you would know that his claims are not far fetched. You dont know the details though, youre just lashing out at people who are providing information that is contradictory to what you already believe. Which is fine, but dont expect anyone to care enough to spoonfeed you further.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

What you don't understand is these are pretty much the only cars we work on.

I have been working on these cars for 22 years. I drive them ,i eat them,i drink them,i read them,i cuddle with them,they are my sport my hobby. I love them. I have been on this site for over 20 years.

I have an i30 up on blocks now,and i'am giddy about going out there.

If i take my sweet time, i can take the tranny out in 45 mins.
I don't know a whole lot about electrical,but i'am learning.

Check this thread out.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-clean-up.html

But it seems you are unhappy about something and taking it out on us.I am not willing to be pulled in these senseless arguments any more.

If you want help i'll offer it.

If you were closer i would help you and pick up that 6 speed.

chop_sooie

That six speed is still available:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...roduct_details

Maybe you could work something out with getting it even cheaper (since it's obviously not selling) and having towed to your place
My buddy and I are going to the CV axle swap this weekend. Wish I knew enough about a motor swap I'd take that 6 speed myself. But what I'm really looking for is an older 4th gen 5 speed with the more reliable VQ30 engine, I loved my 99 Maxima but it was an auto. I went and looked at a 5 speed 97 up in Missouri a couple days ago and probably should have bought it (he was asking $850) but it had some other issues... and he didn't have the title for it I would have had to pay for the car and then trust him to use some of that to go pay off the title. It sold shortly after I looked at it. Oh well hopefully another one will come along fairly soon.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

This thread was reported to the moderators. I took the liberty of deleting the off topic bantering. Let's stay on topic please.