Dropping trans, tips and tricks!
#1
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Dropping trans, tips and tricks!
So apparently the brand new nissan TOB i used when i did my motor swap is crap. I didnt get to do a video of the noise yet but it definitely sounds like a bearing noise. In any case, im going to need to drop my transmission to investigate and fix whatever the problem is. Reallllly not happy about this but obviously ignoring it is not an option lol.
Anyone have tips for dropping the trans while its in the car? Im assuming you just drain the gear oil, pop the axles, remove the shift cable, unbolt the starter and trans mount, and remove the bolts holding the trans to the motor? Is that more or less the correct order of operations? Im going to probably buy the $99 harbor freight transmission scissor jack they sell, seems like its be good enough to keep the transmission supported and move it laterally so the input shaft doesnt get messed up during removal and installation. Maybe not the best jack but for a hundred bucks i think itll do, sure will beat using a floorjack and trying to he-man the thing off the motor from under the car. I know thats doable but i dont think i could do it without destroying the input shaft.
Anyways, any tricks/tips on how to do this would be appreciated.
Anyone have tips for dropping the trans while its in the car? Im assuming you just drain the gear oil, pop the axles, remove the shift cable, unbolt the starter and trans mount, and remove the bolts holding the trans to the motor? Is that more or less the correct order of operations? Im going to probably buy the $99 harbor freight transmission scissor jack they sell, seems like its be good enough to keep the transmission supported and move it laterally so the input shaft doesnt get messed up during removal and installation. Maybe not the best jack but for a hundred bucks i think itll do, sure will beat using a floorjack and trying to he-man the thing off the motor from under the car. I know thats doable but i dont think i could do it without destroying the input shaft.
Anyways, any tricks/tips on how to do this would be appreciated.
#2
You said cables, so you have a 6 speed? They really don't have any wiggle room. You need to go in at an angle. To get room I had to remove the shift levers and engine mounts (to angle engine) to get clearance. I use an engine hoist and floor jack. While not needed, I recommend a leveler to aid in alignment.
Granted I only have replaced one 6 speed clutch. Maybe it's easier than I made it. I've done countless 5 speed and 4 speed autos which can be removed without angling the engine.
Granted I only have replaced one 6 speed clutch. Maybe it's easier than I made it. I've done countless 5 speed and 4 speed autos which can be removed without angling the engine.
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You said cables, so you have a 6 speed? They really don't have any wiggle room. You need to go in at an angle. To get room I had to remove the shift levers and engine mounts (to angle engine) to get clearance. I use an engine hoist and floor jack. While not needed, I recommend a leveler to aid in alignment.
Granted I only have replaced one 6 speed clutch. Maybe it's easier than I made it. I've done countless 5 speed and 4 speed autos which can be removed without angling the engine.
Granted I only have replaced one 6 speed clutch. Maybe it's easier than I made it. I've done countless 5 speed and 4 speed autos which can be removed without angling the engine.
I never heard anyone say this was an easy job to do with everything still in the car, but is it really a total nightmare? So aggravating that I spent extra money to get an OEM nissan throw out bearing, only for it to apparently be a dud. Meanwhile the one that actually came with the clutch (made by the same people as the nissan one) probably would have worked just fine.. Sometimes you just cant win.
#4
I don't think all of the levers came off. My memory is fuzzy, I don't have enough 6 speed experience to remember all the stuff the cables mount to. I unbolted something. If you could angle the engine (lower the trans side) enough then you would have more room. The shift levers hit on the control arm / pivot pins at the angle I had. I left the crossmember in IIRC.
Basically I did whatever I could to make room. It wasn't a nightmare but I had help, from someone far less experienced. Extra hands (or eyes) is always welcomed when lining up a transmission.
I wouldn't try without a hoist. I just don't feel the transmission jack alone will have enough adjustment.
Basically I did whatever I could to make room. It wasn't a nightmare but I had help, from someone far less experienced. Extra hands (or eyes) is always welcomed when lining up a transmission.
I wouldn't try without a hoist. I just don't feel the transmission jack alone will have enough adjustment.
#5
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Found this video on removal. Seems pretty straight forward. They remove the motor mounts as you suggested, but also jack the motor up via the oilpan to get even more of an aggressive angle.They didnt remove the shift lever though, but they did remove the bracket the cables rest on. Removing the trans does not seem all too difficult in the grand scheme of things, if i can pull a motor i can pull this stupid thing lol. As for reinstalling, i think the jack will do ok. When I installed it last time, I basically had to muscle the thing on while using assorted crap to wedge under it off the floor and angle it correctly (this was a little bit of a sht show lol). Granted, the motor was out of the car which made doing so way easier, but having a purpose built jack i think will make it more or less the same difficulty now that the motor is staying in the car. The jack I got has a ratchet strap to keep the transmission from moving off of it. You can also adjust the plate that the transmission rests on and tilt it up and down a bit - I think that feature is what is going to make this job possible for me to do. Best part is I can clean the jack up nice when im done and return it under warranty once everything is back together. All that being said I think i will recruit a friend for reinstallation just in case.
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