Need help with rear caliper smoking and getting really hot
11-13-2019, 08:21 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 59
Need help with rear caliper smoking and getting really hot
I cant seem to find an accurate thread on this issue. My driver rear caliper smoked hard on the way to work this morning. It was 25° outside. I turned back home and the rotors had what looked like fire extinguisher foam on them. Caliper was free when I got the car up and seemed to have no problems. I took it apart since im used to it by now and the pads and rotor seemed fine. Guide pins and all were moving freely as I freshly greased them a month or so ago. I pulled the ebrake all the way up and the driver side spun still. Passenger side firm as hell. So I did the push the brake pedal hard with the car off and parked. Seemed to help a lot. But I cant have this happening all the time. I have yet to take it for a test drive. Waiting for my buddy to come help me bleed the brakes. Maybe that will help? Im just lost for thought. Calipers less than a year old (reman.) and I dont think I have the receipt otherwise id get a whole new caliper again. Any help in the fastest time frame is appreciated
11-13-2019, 08:27 AM
#2
your e brake lines are frozen and filled with water and debri. either dissconect drivers side and move on, or clean out the e-brake lines, or get new e-brake lines and grease up the ends where water and debri can enter.
i lived this exact situation, got a rear caliper replaced, less than 24 hours later the rear brake was frozen and smoking, caliper was fine, it was the e-brake line. and in fact its still bad, i just disconnected it.
i lived this exact situation, got a rear caliper replaced, less than 24 hours later the rear brake was frozen and smoking, caliper was fine, it was the e-brake line. and in fact its still bad, i just disconnected it.
11-13-2019, 10:30 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 59
your e brake lines are frozen and filled with water and debri. either dissconect drivers side and move on, or clean out the e-brake lines, or get new e-brake lines and grease up the ends where water and debri can enter.
i lived this exact situation, got a rear caliper replaced, less than 24 hours later the rear brake was frozen and smoking, caliper was fine, it was the e-brake line. and in fact its still bad, i just disconnected it.
i lived this exact situation, got a rear caliper replaced, less than 24 hours later the rear brake was frozen and smoking, caliper was fine, it was the e-brake line. and in fact its still bad, i just disconnected it.
11-13-2019, 05:45 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 59
So heres an update and crazy dumb story for everyone and hopefully someone can learn from my mistakes.
I ended up finding the receipt for the caliper so I figured, “well let me eliminate a potential caliper problem by getting another caliper.” (this was a mistake) I then returned home and started to get to work replacing the caliper. Didnt take more than five minutes. As I was doing so I realize some kind of wet spot where the rubber brake hose is crimped in the middle and mounted to the suspension parts. I didnt think much of it because I knew brake fluid was running down that. So I naturally blasted it with brake clean and dried it off. It immediately became wet again. I then assumed that maybe it was just because more fluid was sitting in that groove. I kept drying and it kept getting wet. So I decided to just go get the new hose. (mind you the closest part store with correct parts is 30 minutes. Advanced auto is 20 and theyre always goofing something up.) So I drove back and got the hose. My buddy has been waiting at my house for probably 15 minutes now. He was just coming to help me bleed the brakes. Or so we thought. So we went on to installing the new hose and bleeding the brakes. Nothing came out. We then diagnosed everything. We had fluid at the point of rubber hose and steel hose connection point. We had fluid at the caliper, and the caliper would even move. But it would not bleed. We then went back to the parts store and returned the “new” caliper for my old one, replaced the hose and brake pads, bled the back two brakes, and took it for a ride. It seemed to go well. Both brakes were at the same temperature. Im going up to north jersey tomorrow which is a good ride time so ill report back tomorrow. Also I loosened the bolt that holds the ebrake connection since theres no adjustment (correct me if im wrong so I can do that properly.) When the bolt was fully tightened and torqued, I could see the ebrake engaging and the caliper getting stiff. So maybe that was part of the problem. Hopefully it being looser fixes it. So thats my maxima story of the day and me explaining my mistakes. Thanks for listening and have a great day!
I ended up finding the receipt for the caliper so I figured, “well let me eliminate a potential caliper problem by getting another caliper.” (this was a mistake) I then returned home and started to get to work replacing the caliper. Didnt take more than five minutes. As I was doing so I realize some kind of wet spot where the rubber brake hose is crimped in the middle and mounted to the suspension parts. I didnt think much of it because I knew brake fluid was running down that. So I naturally blasted it with brake clean and dried it off. It immediately became wet again. I then assumed that maybe it was just because more fluid was sitting in that groove. I kept drying and it kept getting wet. So I decided to just go get the new hose. (mind you the closest part store with correct parts is 30 minutes. Advanced auto is 20 and theyre always goofing something up.) So I drove back and got the hose. My buddy has been waiting at my house for probably 15 minutes now. He was just coming to help me bleed the brakes. Or so we thought. So we went on to installing the new hose and bleeding the brakes. Nothing came out. We then diagnosed everything. We had fluid at the point of rubber hose and steel hose connection point. We had fluid at the caliper, and the caliper would even move. But it would not bleed. We then went back to the parts store and returned the “new” caliper for my old one, replaced the hose and brake pads, bled the back two brakes, and took it for a ride. It seemed to go well. Both brakes were at the same temperature. Im going up to north jersey tomorrow which is a good ride time so ill report back tomorrow. Also I loosened the bolt that holds the ebrake connection since theres no adjustment (correct me if im wrong so I can do that properly.) When the bolt was fully tightened and torqued, I could see the ebrake engaging and the caliper getting stiff. So maybe that was part of the problem. Hopefully it being looser fixes it. So thats my maxima story of the day and me explaining my mistakes. Thanks for listening and have a great day!
11-13-2019, 08:23 PM
#6
"Need help asap" is not an appropriate thread title. I changed it to something more meaningful and beneficial to those who actually use the search function.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-contest.html
Glad you got it sorted out.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-contest.html
Glad you got it sorted out.
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