Several times in the past couple of weeks the car has cut off completely. While driving. Fortunately it starts back up immediately while I'm driving. If I had it parked at the house and was testing alternator function by disconnecting the battery and having it shut off as though the alternator was bad that's how it acts. Just instant.
I first noticed it when I tried to turn on my high beams one night. Then another time on the same trip when I turned on a blinker. Tonight it happened when I turned on a blinker.
The battery terminals are tight. The SES light is not on so I haven't checked codes yet.

Things done to car in the past five years include:
Clutch replaced
Alternator replaced with reman unit at local shop (rip-off $$)
Grounding kit purchased from this forum
Exhaust replaced from the cat to the back.
Right front wheel bearing replaced.
Struts replaced
Brakes replaced
CPS and CKPS sensors replaced
All plugs and coils replaced.

Can anyone help?

TIA, Barry

 

Get a multimeter easy to use, That will tell you if your alternator is bad. And among other things.

And yeah i can help i'll buy your car.

 

At the moment it isn't for sale. Sorry. I want to get it back running properly so I can enjoy that motor. Not only does it cut out unexpectedly it bogs badly when my foot is heavier than a helium balloon.
I have a multimeter. I don't know what to do to test it. What I'm guessing is that it'll check out fine, but there will be some kind of internal loose connection.
When it ran well it was so much fun for a fat *** sedan. Most of that was down to the big V6.

 

Look at the trans code tag on the firewall. If it ends with a "V" that's your problem. I'll trade you for mine that works good.

 

What do you mean V trans code is my problem?

 

It a joke ... a code off V or H would be a differential that powers both wheels at the same time. Not one like normal.

That is rare and sought after, just like me he was referring to taking it off your hands.

 

Sorry. Yes it was a joke. I'm looking for an LSD trans.

Random stalling with no pattern is almost always a poor electrical connection. They're sometimes a ***** to find and it's highly unlikely someone online without being there to actually put hands on the car will know what it is.

 

Were the CPS sensors from the dealer? Our cars are sensitive to electronic sensors and parts. Normally Hitachi or OEM are the way to go.

 

Very true. Missed the fact that they got replaced

 

If the alternator was completely bad, the battery wouldn't last very long before being unable to re-start or keep the car running. This, I know from experience.

The issue is more likely a bad connection somewhere. The ground wire from the battery to the body to the starter, and of course the connections to the alternator are good places to start. Clean them off well with some de-greaser and steel wool and re-install.

 

Nissan parts.
Oddly enough, the HItachi I bought from RockAuto was instantly recognized by the computer in the car as crap.
I know. Dammit, I'm not a fan of electrical shorts. I have had it be one bad cell in a battery before on a different car.
I have no idea if it has LSD. I don't think so. I'll look sometime at the code.
I don't believe the alternator is completely bad. I just believe it may be a ****ty reman. It's lasted a few years, but ya never know.
Don't forget the grounds have been augmented by one of those kits a member of this forum used to make. I've forgotten who. I believe I bought one of the last few he had in stock.

 

Update.
Car started to scare me. I parked it. I've been driving backup cars.
Now it will not run. It'll crank but not start and run. It may be a timing issue, such as a tensioner or the like. Gee fun.

 

2nd gen swap time.

 

This looks like a bad MAF. Few years ago, I did have the same problem. Quite annoying, and it took me quite a while to diagnose it. Since then, I carry a spare MAF so that I can swap & test quickly.

Try to clean your MAF first. If cleaning doesn't help, replace it. The Hitachi/OEM MAF is the way to go but it's a bit expensive at $200.- (see https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ow+sensor,5128 ), so you could try the Delphi unit (sensor only, for about $85.-).
Also, make sure your battery voltages are OK (about 14.5V when charging, and 12.4 -12.5V otherwise).
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Hitachi has a sensor only MAF as well for $105. I have one in my car. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I replaced the alternator and the positive battery cable terminal. Either one or the other solved that issue.
Now on to fixing the rest of it.