Do I need lower control arm bushings?
#1
Do I need lower control arm bushings?
I have a 2000 infiniti i30 with 200k km. It is probably the original control arm bushings. I don't see any cracks and no evidence of weakness I am wondering if I should replace them to get better more predictable handling and control. If so what is the procedure to replace the bushings on the existing control arms?
#3
I'm curious in what way the bushing would be worn if it is not visible. I've always thought bushings had to crack first before replacing and I have probably suffered consequences. Perhaps it depends on the type of material used in the bushing and the manufacturer.
#6
#10
So to answer my question to this thread "do I need lower control arm bushings?", the answer is probably no. They helped a bit but I asked the question because something is bothering me in the handling of the car. Since replacing the control arms I also replaced the steering rack mounting bushing and one of the rear bearings. I can vouch for the goodness of the following parts: tie rods (inner and outer), front struts, ball joints (in new control arms). In the rear: rear struts, trailing arm bushings and lateral link (rear). I checked wheel bearing axial play and it was ok. Funny the rear right bearing was good on the end play but needed replacement.
The symptom I am complaining about is wandering steering even at lower speeds. I keep having to correct the steering. The steering rack is tight, no play in the steering wheel.
So I am coming around now to the front wheel bearings. They don't make any noise and there is no perceptible play, but the question is: can wheel bearings seem to be good when checking but be failing under load?
The symptom I am complaining about is wandering steering even at lower speeds. I keep having to correct the steering. The steering rack is tight, no play in the steering wheel.
So I am coming around now to the front wheel bearings. They don't make any noise and there is no perceptible play, but the question is: can wheel bearings seem to be good when checking but be failing under load?
#11
Sure wheel bearings can fail all kinds of ways including getting tight under a load or taking a corner. I had one pulling problem that ended up being a dragging caliper. I found that with my infrared heat gun. I also had a situation where the core radiator support was failing. So the engine drops down which messes up the transmission. The drive wheels would lurch awkwardly during acceleration
#12
Sure wheel bearings can fail all kinds of ways including getting tight under a load or taking a corner. I had one pulling problem that ended up being a dragging caliper. I found that with my infrared heat gun. I also had a situation where the core radiator support was failing. So the engine drops down which messes up the transmission. The drive wheels would lurch awkwardly during acceleration
#14
#17
I have winter and summer sets of tires. They are all from 2014 and are worn to their wear marks but wear is normal and even. I had same trouble with winter tires and was hoping summer tires would be different, but no. So I would prefer to fix this issue before buying the new tires, if possible. Also the toe is ok for four wheel alignment. The front toe is slightly negative and the rear toe is extra positive. They compensate for each other. Camber and caster seem ok too. I should take it in for a professional alignment, but I do it in my garage roughly with string rectangle and then finely with test drive.
Last edited by Mharvey500; 04-23-2020 at 05:40 PM.
#18
Rear toe being extra positive will definitely make the car unstable. Get a real alignment.
I got fired once because we had an old Isuzu pickup in with a severe pull to the right. I said send it out for an alignment (my boss insisted on selling alignments then doing them with a string and camber gauge.) Toe checked out so he asked me why it was pulling. I answered I don't know... Get me an alignment printout and I'll be able to answer that for you.
That made his blood boil (I had already been vocal about his methods being less than honest) so I get fired. Interview comes up with unemployment board, questions get asked, he loses his fight. Truck was fixed with a real alignment.
I got fired once because we had an old Isuzu pickup in with a severe pull to the right. I said send it out for an alignment (my boss insisted on selling alignments then doing them with a string and camber gauge.) Toe checked out so he asked me why it was pulling. I answered I don't know... Get me an alignment printout and I'll be able to answer that for you.
That made his blood boil (I had already been vocal about his methods being less than honest) so I get fired. Interview comes up with unemployment board, questions get asked, he loses his fight. Truck was fixed with a real alignment.
Last edited by slvr2KSE5; 04-23-2020 at 05:57 PM.
#19
According to FSM, rear toe maximum is 0.43 degrees, front toe minimum is 0 degrees.
My readings (using string) are rear +0.67 degrees, front -0.33 degrees. So with this even though it is out of spec I am not getting abnormal tire wear, but it is difficult I guess for the car to sustain stability.
The big problem with rear toe is it is not adjustable.
I could adjust front to 0 degrees and try it out. But likely that will introduce abnormal tire wear but if it improves the ride it may be worth it.
My readings (using string) are rear +0.67 degrees, front -0.33 degrees. So with this even though it is out of spec I am not getting abnormal tire wear, but it is difficult I guess for the car to sustain stability.
The big problem with rear toe is it is not adjustable.
I could adjust front to 0 degrees and try it out. But likely that will introduce abnormal tire wear but if it improves the ride it may be worth it.
Last edited by Mharvey500; 04-24-2020 at 08:46 AM.
#21
EDIT:....late reply to this thread as i have not been on for some time
Last edited by scotty64; 04-25-2020 at 07:06 PM. Reason: late reply
#22
So the question is what school of thought is correct. Can you correct a rear misalignment by compensating with the front toe or must the front toe be limited by the manufacturer's spec?
Before explaining what happened I would like to share what happened years ago when I owned a BMW. I took it to a respected BMW mechanic for an alignment. I noticed on the printout he had put the front toe as an extra positive degrees. I asked him why, he said it is because the rear toe is out of alignment with negative toe and cannot be changed. He said the front compensated for the rear and I would get not get abnormal tire wear. Mind you I didn't like the way the car drove so I had another mechanic forcefully bend the rear wheel back. He overshot the target by twice so I had extra positive rear alignment and consequently the front toe was made negative to compensate, and the ride was superior to the prior case.
Now that I have this Infiniti I inherited the same misalignment on my previous car, so knowing the trick I undo the rear misalignment by purposely misaligning the front in the opposite direction.
Now here's the thing, the alignment I got yesterday, I told them not to change it but just give me the readings because they wanted to bring the front toe into the manufacturer's narrow spec without regard for the rear toe in. When I told the guy I was not getting tire wear he was surprised.
I'm glad I got the reading because it corrected an error in my rear toe measurements. Rear toe is +0.33 degrees, not +0.67 degrees as I misread the tape measure. Rear toe is actually within spec.
#23
get cheap control arms from Rockauto.com so you have fresh ball joints and go with Energy Suspension control arm bushings and sway bar bushings, your steering will feel so much stable. I would also recommend the rear trail arm bushings. when the rear trail arm bushings leak out the oil the rear of the car gets really unstable, dangerous when doing a hard stop on the highway....
#24
get cheap control arms from Rockauto.com so you have fresh ball joints and go with Energy Suspension control arm bushings and sway bar bushings, your steering will feel so much stable. I would also recommend the rear trail arm bushings. when the rear trail arm bushings leak out the oil the rear of the car gets really unstable, dangerous when doing a hard stop on the highway....
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