searcherrr

Both front CV axle boots are split. 7.5 years ago the car sat in brakash flood water for 24 to 36 hours. No telling how long the CV axle boots have been split open, but I just saw it a couple days ago and from inspection and driving the axles and internals seem fine aside from that. I was contemplating just getting new boots, but isn't the labor for doing the boot's just about the same as doing the whole CV axles? Would ya'll go ahead and replace the whole CV axles? Also, (still no signs of problems even now, but....) would ya'll replace the wheel bearings too?

I have this car: (https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...n-t-start.html)
Link to last post in that thread: (https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post9217801)

Despite the flood waters long ago, this car runs and drives wonderful and we've had no problems with wheel noise or grinding etc... regarding the wheel bearings.

03_GLE

I'm of the mindset that if it ain't broke, don't "fix" it. That said, given you're experiencing no noises, or grinding I would leave them alone. I'm a bit surprised your axles have held up this long considering the water exposure they had along with road elements and weather. Keep in mind that these parts will most likely be OEM aftermarket replacement, or refurbished units so they may not have the same integrity as the current parts you have on the car (assuming their the original stock components). For the axles if and when you end up coming to replace them, seek out if your current parts can be refurbished since they have the closest fit to your vehicle. As for the wheel bearings, they're typical to go on the 5th gen but if you're not experiencing any whirring noise as you're driving, I would leave these alone as well.

DougR

If the axles are not noisy or loose, I clean and reboot. I've never had to buy after market axles.

DougR

I replace a wheel bearing if and only if it is noisy.

User1

I wouldn't even fill the gas tank of a car that sat in flood water. Good luck.

DougR

How deep was the flood water? If you haven't had electrical problems in 7.5 years, I suspect the water wasn't very deep. Did water enter the passenger compartment? If water depth was 9 inches or less, then I think exposure to brackish water didn't cause any damage.

searcherrr

Just a followup, the car is running great still. The water got high enough to just barely cover the cup holders which friend the abs and cruise control and ecu stuff.... but I have to say at the time it was only a 65k mile car and as you all know it's a wonderful car and we kept it up well and garaged. It was worth the experience and outcome to repair it and again it is still running great today after much MUCH careful cleaning of wires, terminal ends and replacing and recoding of modules which I'm lucky to have found someone that knew how to do it (a locksmith) who shortly thereafter stopped doing that service for some reason.

Anyways, I agree to keep the axles. They are still ok and haven't been dealt with yet. I tried to do a temp fix with duct tape to surround the split in the boots, but I found the area too cramped to work in without a "FULL CLEANUP" job with a pressure washer on the under carriage first..... IE: I was going to get all kinds of soot into the crack of the axle boot if I continued on with my "temp patch idea"..... so I guess when I'm ready to really do this right I'll have to lift the car and pressure wash the under side after much soaping around first and go from there.

Anyone recommend what type of grease I should use or a good brand cv boot? Do I need special tools to remove the old boots and clamps that hold them to the axles?

DougR

Good to hear about your status and it appears you've done some very good work on a car worth the effort. Pressure washing a torn boot will get water inside and ruin the joint very quickly. I think it is better to replace the boots now or leave it alone for awhile if very little grease has been thrown out and you can keep out dirt and water (depending on where you live). If you have to tape the boot up, consider cleaning it with brake cleaner sprayed on a cloth while wearing latex gloves to protect your hands and work in a well ventilated area. Better yet, replace the boots if at all possible or drive the vehicle as little as possible until you can do the work. I installed Beck/Arnley CV boots about 4 years ago. I think I bought them at NAPA. It comes with boots, grease and clamps. The clamps did not require use of special tools. Pull the free end of the clamp tight, bend back over itself and lock in place with two side tabs. No issues with mine so far.