This thread spawns off of this one (click here).

I have a 2001 Maxima A/T no traction control with 65k miles that cranks hard and fast, but will not start. Anti-theft is ruled out because the light by the clock is behaving as it should.

Plugs have never been changed to my knowledge. Has a new fuel pump assembly. After that it started most of the time and other times wouldn't with no pattern. Now it will not start at all, but still cranks hard.

What are some contributing reasons that may be common for these gen Maxima's not to start?

Also, I have tried to crank this thing a lot without it starting.... is it possible I have flooded the engine in so doing? If so, how do I de-flood it?

 

Check fuel pump and fuel pressure

 

-Check the battery for dirt or corrosion
-Check your ignition switch
-Check fuel pump's electrical connection
-Look at your spark plug coils

also there r 3 thing u that makea car run SPARK-FUEL-COMPRESSION or AIR

 

To see if the engine has flooded, remove a spark plug and look at it. If it looks wet and the smell of gasoline is very strong, it may be flooded. It also tells you that the fuel pump is working and the engine is getting gas.

BUT - if the problem is that you aren't getting spark, the plugs will still be wettish, just not as wet as flooded. It takes experience to tell the difference.

If the engine were truly flooded, take out all the spark plugs so the gas can evaporate. If you have an air compressor and can blow air in the cylinders, that will dry out the cylinders faster.

Check and see if you are getting spark in the cylinders.

To answer your question from your other thread, the ignition relay is mounted on the back side of the fuse panel in the dash.

 

Is there a fuel pressure test port on this car?

 

1. Battery is new - terminals were cleaned on installation. Good connection.

2. Ignition switch - How do I check it? It cranks the car just fine? What other way is there to test it?

3. Fuel Pump voltage - Where's the best place to check the voltage? which wires/terminals?

4. Spark plug coils - What am I looking for here? just look at them and see if they are still shiney? or something else?

 

No, but you can verify pressure by pulling the fuel lines off the fuel filter. Remember to route it to a catch jar so you don't spray gasoline everywhere.

 

I'm going to try the "pull the plug out, ground it and see if it sparks" routine and then I'll know for sure if I'm missing spark.

I went by at lunch today (car still at Nissan parking lot) and checked behind the interior fuse block in the car... that area definitely did not get damaged at all and I didn't have a flashlight with me, but I think that was the only relay back there.

Another blue relay though is down on the driver left foot kick panel, where I believe the fuel pump relay is. That one did get damaged and I bought a new one today at Orielly Auto Parts and I'm gonna try it later on and see what happens.

My next suspects are the crankshaft sensors, but if I don't have to replace those I won't because they are bit pricey.

When I go back I'll have someone turn the key 1 click before ignition and put my ear to the fuel tank (back seat is out) and see if I hear the fuel pump activate.

I'm hoping to get the car started so I can drive it off Nissan's LOT honking my horn the whole way out and wipe it in their miserable moronic faces. I think they are only good for static repair items... oil changes, part swaps, fluid swaps and whatever else the COMPUTER tells them to do. If they have to THINK at all, then they can't do whatever the repair is. I've never met such an incompetent dealership in my life.

 

Lots of good advice here. Sounds like you are on the right track. You could pull the connector to the pump and check for power with a DVM. I bet its fuel related. I just installed an Aeromotive 340 in a car, and it was bad, right out of the box.

 

Good advice indeed, however you CANNOT verify pressure by checking the plugs or pulling a fuel line.

A bad fuel pump CAN, and does, produce pressure (and wet the plugs) and pass your "return line pulse", "smell plugs", voltage at pump...etc type tests BUT STILL be bad. That is, you would need a good ole fashioned pressure gauge to tell if the pump is putting out what it should.

You mentioned it has a new assembly? Who installed it and with what parts?

*** Try spraying some starting fluid into the intake whilst cranking***
This will give you an immediate clue as whether or not the car is producing adequate fuel pressure to get a start.

 

Exactly right....with that being said, Ive never seen one actually spin and not produce pressure. But definitely not out of the question. Some have reversed polarity, but he said that this one was already working.

 

Have you tried pulling any codes? I have an i30 2000 and a year ago when i got it it had the same problem crank strong but no start, when i checked for codes it pointed at the camshaft postion sensor put a newone from autozone and it started like a champ. If you are short on money you could try a junkyard and get the sensors from a 4th gen they are the same, but you wont know if they work right or not. Hope this help

 

I have a fuel pressure test gauge. LOL - I've been around the block a few times with these things on other cars. Its just been a while since I had to use all this knowledge. I'm hoping ya'll can help me dust off old knowledge and shake it back into action.

I need to buy some starting fluid.

A trusted shop installed the new fuel pump assembly from NISSAN. Was quite a bit of COIN too.

 

I was going to try to pull codes, but I was wondering.... would the ECM give off and save codes if the engine never has a chance to start???

I have a very basic free code scanning software and connector that I've used a lot. I'm going to try it tomorrow along with a few other things I hope are easy.

The ignition relay and the fuel pump relay wouldn't happen to be the same part number would they? Just checking cause that would help if I could interchange them when testing.

I'll try a junk yard if I can find a Maxima in one.

 

is there no "easy" way to tow a front wheel drive maxima without a car dolly?

 

Unplug Cam sensors. Clear ecu (even if no codes are present)
Try to start

 

I'll put that on my list of to do's.

 

I went by Nissan today, on my lunch hour, with my tiny old winxp laptop and my obd connector and plugged it into the Maxima. As I turned on the ignition I listened for the fuel pump to spine up and it did, clearly so, several times after turning the key back in forth with a lil pausing between each time. So fuel pump should be working.

I didn't have time to check for fuel on the spark plugs or much anything else, but I did find 2 stored DTC's using the EasyOBD program from the internet.

P1615 - Unknown
P505 - Idle Air Control System Malfunction

http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p1615_nissan.html - I looked up P1615 and it led me to that page. Is that page pretty much right??? Did the LOCKSMITH NOT successfully program my keys or could this mean the IMMU is broken after all?

Should I call the LOCKSMITH back? or troubleshoot/replace the IMMU?

Do I have to replace the IMMU with a brand new blank one from Nissan or does it not matter if I get one off a junk car?? (sorry, i Have to go back and read what we said about that in here)

P505 - As I understand it, doesn't this mean I have a bad idle air controller motor? or could it mean something else? What is usual for these cars with this code?

If the IAC is bad, from my experience, the engine would at least run for a second or so and then shut off. I'm not even getting a split second of it running though. It just won't start.

I also remember some tech bulletin or recall problems with the IAC and TPS and ECM's of these year Maximas. Any comments or thoughts there?

Most of all, if P1615 means the keys really ARE NOT PROGRAMMED, then I am stunned, because the anti-theft light does behave properly since the LOCKSMITH programmed the 2 keys to the used JUNKYARD ECM.

When I go back next time I was planning on looking for spark etc.., but should I even worry about it if the IMMU could be bad?

I guess I should've ordered one of those IMMU bypass modules from ebay after all. Then I'd be sure the NATS would be out of the picture.

 

So you got fuct by the security system?

 

Yep, car will start with P0505, just won't hold idle, but if you rev it it'll stay on and be drivable. Don't worry about this code till you fix your IMMU/NATS problem. There are already dozens of P0505 threads, for most it's a straight forward fix, replace IACV (~$130) and repair ECU (or pay $700 for a new one). ECU repair is pretty easy too if you can solder in a replacement 10 pin STA509A mosfet ($15) and fix any open traces, otherwise send to a repair shop and fork over $200. One recent P0505 thread worth your time.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...mous-code.html

 

I think so, but the anti-theft light is acting normal... which I don't understand.. if its acting normal then why won't it allow the car to start... IF THAT IS WHAT IS KEEPING THE CAR FROM STARTING.

 

 

That problem would be fixed if you were to clean the throttle body

 

doctor, it hurts when i do this...

tps might cause this, but the low rpms with a/c seems like an iacv issue. it's possible you might have an intermittent P0505 condition if the iacv is borderline ok.

 

According to my free scanner program the idle is steady at 725rpms with no load on.

I will check the IAC resistance. I've had to do this before on other cars too. I was thinking about just replacing the IAC and TPS altogether to make sure I don't blow the new old junkyard ECU.

I'm also considering unplugging the motor mount sensors or actuators... whatever they are.. because I've heard/read that when the mounts go bad it can fry your ECU. Anyone care to comment on that?

Throttle body was supposed to have been cleaned already by a trusted shop about 8 months ago, though you never know how well they actually did it.

What is the correct method for cleaning the throttle body on this car?

Lastly, I heard there is an idle relearn procedure after replacing the IAC. Is there a sticky for that in this forum or somewhere else, that is a reliable guide to do this?

 

Probably worth the trouble to measure both the IACV and TPS to make sure they are ok, though it sounds like your no load idle is pretty good, but given the possibility a new ECU can be blown by a bad IACV, I'd do it just to be sure. I don't think it necessary to replace anything unless they measure bad.

Yes, if the motor mounts short they can damage their respective driver mosfet in the ECU. I disconnected mine right after my IACV died and killed my ECU. There are two, one is right next to the ATF fluid dipstick toward the firewall, the other between the radiator and engine. Some recommend disconnecting them at certain RPM, but I just did mine while idling and haven't noticed any vibration at all.

You can find instructions for the idle relearn in the FSM, see EC-67 in the following link:

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowl...4#.UTfwTjfE-_s

 

Thank you guys so much for your help. These illustrations help me a lot because I was going to go looking under the car for where to unplug the motor mounts. I got myself a cold so as soon as I get well I'm gonna continue with this.

I am thinking all 4 brake calipers need to be replaced. I think all the brakes are rusted. The brakes sat for 6 months after the flood and when I drove it home for the first time the other night I could tell the brakes were pulling one way and it seemed like the brakes were stuck in down/applied mode.

Aside from that there is some sort of motor noise, aside from the engine, that I periodically hear. I haven't yet figured out what it is, but it starts up and keeps going till I turn off the car.

Bearings on pulleys - Am I totally screwed here? The engine sounds different now and I can only surmise its due to the pulleys sounding different because the bearings sat in flood water for about 3 days with a slight brakash water mix. I guess there is no way to spray 10W40 underneath the pulleys and it would somehow find its way into the pulley bearings huh? If I wanted to relube bearings would I have to just pull off all those pulley parts and do it on a table?

I was just thinking of running the parts till they die on me and then replace them even though the engine doesn't sound the same.

 

The brakes may not be total trash, but need some TLC. The rotors rusted after the water went away and then any driving afterwards ground all that rust into the brake pads. Sand down the rotors to remove any rust, although driving probably had done this. Take out the brake pads and sand them down. The rust from the rotors got ground into them.

Now for the calipers. They are made of 2 pieces that slide together on 2 guide pins. The guide pins are on the top outside corners of the calipers and covered by rubber boots.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...125288_0_4222_

If these pins don't slide freely, the brake may not clamp onto the rotor or conversely not fully release. A bolt (12mm wrench) in the end of each pin holds it in and also holds the 2 sections of caliper together. Remove these pins and re-grease them and clean out the hole they go in. Note that the 2 pins are not the same, so watch which one goes in which end.

In this illustration, the pins are reference numbers 41217 and 41217+A.

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...ew_pnlPartList

As to the noise you hear, I have no idea. When you say bearings on pulleys, are you referring to the alternator, a/c compressor and maybe power steering pump? If so, those bearings don't come apart. They are considered to be "sealed for life" and you can't do anything with them. If you spray them with WD40, it supposedly will not get in the bearing.

And speaking of WD40, that would be the wrong stuff to use if it would work. WD40 is not an oil. It is a bunch of chemicals that can penetrate corrosion and rust and then it evaporates. There is a product called Liquid Wrench made by Gunk that is an oil. It comes in spray can and bottle. Amazingly (to me at least) you can get it at Walmart in the automotive section. It is a very light-weight oil with chemicals like WD40 to free up stuck parts but leave lubrication. The lubrication is OK for hinges but not for bearings.

 

First I changed the starter, It was working fine, then I had to replace the fuel pump. It still wouldn't start. I had to change a couple of fuses after I replaced my fuel pump. It appears that I blew the fuses trying o start my car while the fuel pump wasn't working. One fuse was under the hood (the blower something ) and the other was in the passenger cabin on the driver side ( ignition something) Yep I'm mobile again!!!!!

 

Hello all!! I just wanted to report to this forum that this car (2001 Nissan Maxima 20th Anniversary Edition) is STILL ALIVE AND WELL TODAY!!! ONLY HAS 85K MILES ON IT AND IS A FLOOD SURVIVOR CAR AND IT RUNS GREAT!!!!! LOLLLL

I post today because the car needs some new maintenance, but after a whole 7 years of it working after the flood I consider that a blessing because this is the first real big maintenance it has needed aside from the standard Nissan IAC and ECU problems stemming from the badly designed electric motor mounts that fry BOTH things (which wasn't flood water related).

Thanks for still being here! Long live the 20th Anniversary Edition Nissan Maxima!!! What a car!!!