Mjp2231

Hey y'all. I'm currently trying to find whatever tools we need to check codes, clear codes, do any relearn procedures, and anything else that I'm forgetting. Can anyone recommend some products? I keep seeing something about Consult 2 to take care of things. Is that a stand alone item, or do I need to order a code reader to go with it? If someone could break things down for me, I'd be eternally grateful 😊

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freezer

To do everything, buy a cheap VAG-COM cable and a license of NDS2. For under $100 you can do all those things and more

Mjp2231

Awesome. Thank you so much. Does it matter which cable I get, or from where? I was trying to get something here within a couple of days. Would Amazon be ok to order from, if they have it?

I guess maybe I should ask this:

​​​​​Do you have a link to a known trusted site for the license, and a link to a cable that is also known to work for sure? I'm trying not to throw any more money away lol

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i got a code reader cheap fo $30 from local auto store, (heres the link for the one i have), there are differences between more pricey ones and cheaper ones, basically my understanding is the pricey ones w the license or whatever can actually reset codes, the cheaper ones just read the codes.

i think the cheaper alternative is better because you should try to fix your code than erase it.

TallTom

This is the cheapo one I have. It reads and erases codes. $20 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


For a tool that also does relearning procedures, the price jumps and you need the cable and software.

Mjp2231

Thank y'all 😊 I know that we need to actually fix the problems that are causing the light to come on, but having one that can turn off the light would be handy even though the light will come back on if the problem isn't fixed

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

As already said, go buy Nissan Data Scan II. Its software you download onto your laptop, and you use a VAGCOM OBD2 cable (one with a “FTDI FT232RL chip” - if you simply paste that phrase into google it will give you a bunch of results.

NDS2 basically lets you do pretty much everything the CONSULT2 system does for a fraction of the price, i think its $60 for the software and $10 for the cable. You can do codes, program new keys, reset your throttle, test individual cylinders, advance/retard your timing, change your idle speed, and even datalog, among other things. It is worth every last penny and more, I truly cannot recommend it enough.

However, if you dont really get that involved with working on your car, you can get a very basic code scanner for $20-$30 that will tell you codes and let you reset them. Personally I have both - I use NDS2 for when I am mucking around with the car, and keep a cheap code scanner in my trunk as a backup.

EDIT: I would like to add, clearing your codes so your CEL goes away will also clear all of your monitors (the diagnostics that determine whether or not a problem exists and whether or not the CEL is illuminated to begin with). When you clear everything, your monitors will report “NOT READY”, and you cant pass inspections while thats the case - which is why mechanics tell you to drive around for a little while after resetting your CEL. The good news is, most states AFAIK allow one monitor to be NOT READY status when doing inspection, which means if you only have one issue, you can typically reset your codes and have all the other monitors complete to READY status, with the problematic one taking more time to make
up its mind. In other words its pretty much a sweet spot you gotta aim for - too little driving and your monitors wont be ready enough, too much and your CEL will come back. Just figured id shed some light on the topic because its not as straight forward as pressing the clear button and sending it lol.

Mjp2231

Ah OK. Thank you! I am going to order a cable and the software some time tomorrow. I just thought I'd go ahead and grab a cheap scan tool today while I'm out. I thought it would be good to have both, just in case I didn't have the laptop with me at some point.

01bluemax

If you just want a basic code reader, go to Walmart and pick up a Hyper Tough scan tool for $20. Looks like this.

Mjp2231

Thanks I'll look into that 😊😊

Mjp2231

Slamrod, forgive me if this is a stupid question, but when I search for the cable, I keep getting links for ones that say "For use with Audi" or "VW". Will this cable still work or am I looking for something that is Nissan specific?

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Yup, it will work. They are indeed designed specifically for Volkswagen vehicles, but they will work for us. For whatever reason though we need ones that contain the chip mentioned earlier - cables without that are known to not work. I think the ones specifically for Nissans are what the CONSULT2 cables are, however I could be mistaken. IIRC, CONSULT2 allows some additional features like communicating with modules other than the ECU (ie; Body Control Module, Airbag Control Module, etc) where as NDS2 + VAGCOM cable only communicates with the Engine Control Module aka the ECU. Luckily for us, 99% of the stuff relevant to us is in the ECU, and that which is not can usually be done via some form of annoying petal dance.

Mjp2231

OH ok. Thank you for explaining that lol. So in order to avoid ever having to do a pedal dance, should I just find a Consult cable lol? I really dread having to do those as I've tried countless times and they've never worked for me 🤦‍♀️

Edited to add: This is what I've found on Amazon

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Will that do the job if I'm not in need of an actual Consult cable?

Tmcttk

Will this work on a 2009 Maxima as well?

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

The only thing I can think of that requires a pedal dance, that NDS2 doesnt cover, is resetting the airbag light. The idle relearn procedure which is the pedal dance you are probably thinking of is covered, you literally click a button and bam its done. Should probably point out that CONSULT2 devices cost hundreds of dollars and IIRC are sold only by Nissan and require licensing and all sorts of bs, basically how Nissan found a way to shjt on independent shops so they can have a quasi-monopoly on vehicle repairs. Which is why everyone pretty much just uses NDS2 lol.

As for that specific cable, idk. Some work, some dont, I think its that chipset mentioned earlier that is the deciding factor. Idk what that specific cable has. I would suggest just googling the chipset and youll get ebay results for like $11.

Im not sure, not familiar with those years, my knowledge is limited pretty much to 95-03. I think you need NDS3 for newer models like that though. IIRC they have not released a computer version of NDS3 as they have not finished developing it, but I think there is an Android app version that apparently works just as well. Again, not within my field of knowledge, so youll want to double check all of that.

Mjp2231

Thanks so much for all of the help. I've ordered the cable. Actually, I ordered 2. One will arrive on Saturday, and the other in a couple of weeks. I'll order the licensed software tomorrow. Then I guess I'll need to figure out how to use it lol. Any tips on that?

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

It is all pretty intuitive. There should be basic instructions on NDS’s website, pretty sure they have something there that explains what every button does. Might even be in the “help” tab of the software itself, I honestly dont remember. But again its all very straight forward, you shouldnt have any issues using it.

Setting it up might be annoying. Apparently for some theres no problems, for me it likes to be a little skunt and fight back. Basically for some reason it refuses to connect with the ECU until it feels like it, no rhyme or reason I can discern. I just keep pressing the connect button over and over until it eventually works and once its connected I have zero problems whatsoever. Im sure theres some sort of computer relating mumbo jumbo that would address that but I am not really that literate with that sort of stuff. But again, despite all that, I still recommend this software as being hands down the best diagnostic utility for the money.

Mjp2231

You have been such great help. I can't thank you enough 😊Hopefully I'll have this car up and running again, SOON lol

Mjp2231

Thought I'd update this to show the current codes. Does anyone know if the maf would cause there to not be any throttle at all?

Mjp2231

Also, I checked the battery voltage

When off it's 12.59

Running it's 14.6

Running with lights 14.1

01bluemax

your battery voltages are good.

Mjp2231

Does that also mean that the alternator is good?

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

It would very strongly imply that, yes. The only possible ways for that to be false, is if the battery was just replaced, or if the alternator failed just after you checked your voltages. Your alternator is a belt driven generator, it creates the electricity, the battery just stores it.

Mjp2231

Thanks 😊 Just trying to check the alternator off of the list of potential causes to my issues