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High idle- 2000 Maxima

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Old 09-30-2020, 08:20 PM
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High idle- 2000 Maxima

Hello everyone, i have a 2000 Maxima that sat for 2 months during the pandemic and I recently started to drive again. I noticed a few weeks ago that it was idling pretty high around 12-1500 rpm. I checked the codes today and got a lot of codes thrown at me. I changed the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body. Well, during the throttle cleaning, I accidentally disconnected a vacuum hose that I can not find where it is supposed to connect. Any thoughts on this?

Make matters worse, it still idles high and now pulsates up to 1700rpm every 2-3 seconds. Im assuming this hose has something to do with it.





Last edited by Elijah Ajayi; 09-30-2020 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 09-30-2020, 09:10 PM
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RIP. IACV fried ecu.

That's not a vac hose, it's tranny breather (top 10 questions posted lol).

I guess speed sensor took a dump.
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Old 09-30-2020, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
RIP. IACV fried ecu.

That's not a vac hose, it's tranny breather (top 10 questions posted lol).

I guess speed sensor took a dump.
Thank you for the quick reply! Could I clean the IACV, or should i replace?

I'll reconnect to the tranny, lol.

Would my speed sensor cause tranny to slip? Or could it be slip of the tranny make it appear that the speed sensor is bad?
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Old 10-01-2020, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Elijah Ajayi
Thank you for the quick reply! Could I clean the IACV, or should i replace?

I'll reconnect to the tranny, lol.

Would my speed sensor cause tranny to slip? Or could it be slip of the tranny make it appear that the speed sensor is bad?
Have to replace iacv and ecu, then program keys (can be done with nissan datascan 2 yourself).

I'm not real familiar with autos, but rev/speed sensor can cause tranny shifting issues. Not sure which is which lol
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Old 10-01-2020, 03:31 PM
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Get the car warmed up, turn everything off (no electrical load) unplug the brown connector on the throttle position switch, go inside and turn on the AC. Not the heater, AC. The idle should drop. Go back and lock in the idle by connecting the brown connector again.

Replace vehicle speed sensor. They're not very expensive. You can find one on eBay for $20.

After all of that, get your ecu reflashed and then have them do idle air relearn.

All in all you're looking about $120 depending how much the Nissan mechanics charge you for the consult II work. Could be less.

misfire is usually because of the coil and not the spark plug. Try and narrow it down to which coils need changing because doing all 6 with quality coils is butt rape money wise.
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Old 10-01-2020, 04:39 PM
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Replace IACV, then if you don't ant to replace the ECU , you can send it out to get repaired on that circuit .

Search " ECU fried in seconds" and read the thread.


If i remember someone posted a link to a company you can send the ECU out to have the IACV circuit get replaced .


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Old 10-01-2020, 04:44 PM
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https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...d-seconds.html

STA509A circuit is getting burned, replace IACV and send ECU to https://www.autoecu.com/ to get fixed and they send it back.


Also i guess the electric motor mounts can short the ECU too
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Old 10-01-2020, 04:52 PM
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Old 10-01-2020, 05:32 PM
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Ecu failure is more or less catastrophic and super rare, no? As if car won't start or randomly shutting off. How do you figure your ecu failed if you have a P0505? I mean I had that code when I bought the car, I just found a way to drop the idle without replacing anything but considering everything I've read here my ecu would've failed as well.
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Old 10-01-2020, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Thrillho
Ecu failure is more or less catastrophic and super rare, no? As if car won't start or randomly shutting off. How do you figure your ecu failed if you have a P0505? I mean I had that code when I bought the car, I just found a way to drop the idle without replacing anything but considering everything I've read here my ecu would've failed as well.
ECU itself doesn't fail, but the component controlling iacv does.
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Old 10-01-2020, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
ECU itself doesn't fail, but the component controlling iacv does.
​​​​​​I haven't popped open my ecu but considering everything my idle shouldn't be at 700+ while in park and definitely not 650+ when in drive. I never replaced the chip OR the iacv.
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Old 10-01-2020, 08:48 PM
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P0505 could be you just need to do idle re-learn, because you messed with TB

When you have your ignition on, IACV will cycle and you could hear the stepper motor clicking. If you don't hear it then your ECU might be fried (or other electrical connection issue). Make sure you get new IACV before putting the new reworked/fixed ECU in place again. IF you have damage IACV, you will fry your ECU again (the bad IACV is usually shorted, then it would send too much current thru the ECU and fry it).


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Old 10-01-2020, 09:44 PM
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I've seen pictures of fried ecus on here but how can an iacv short the ecu if there are things like fuses and relays to keep that from happening? I honestly don't buy it... I fixed my p0505 the way I described above and haven't had that code come up since. My idle's within spec and everything's fine, I just have the 1440 code now. The p0505 was either Nissan's cash grab or a glitch with the ecu or sensors, something that was probably addressed with the last ecu update most likely.

​​​​​​if what I did didn't fix my ecu but fried it some more, I probably wouldn't be able to connect any diagnostic tool to the obdii port.

Last edited by Thrillho; 10-01-2020 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Thrillho
I've seen pictures of fried ecus on here but how can an iacv short the ecu if there are things like fuses and relays to keep that from happening? I honestly don't buy it... I fixed my p0505 the way I described above and haven't had that code come up since. My idle's within spec and everything's fine, I just have the 1440 code now. The p0505 was either Nissan's cash grab or a glitch with the ecu or sensors, something that was probably addressed with the last ecu update most likely.

​​​​​​if what I did didn't fix my ecu but fried it some more, I probably wouldn't be able to connect any diagnostic tool to the obdii port.
What fuses and what relays? It's connected directly to the ECU lol. And I'm sure A to fry is low.
It may not fry immediately, but it doesn't take long. OR your iacv was just bad. Anytime idle is high, it's going to throw the code. If it's stuck open or failed open....then, yeah, ecu won't be fried.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-01-2020 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
What fuses and what relays? It's connected directly to the ECU lol.
**** if I know, man. I just assumed basic and fragile electric components, also the most expensive ones, are at least protected by *something*. You mean to tell me that a very expensive part of the tb, that has coolant running through it for some weird reason despite liquid not being very good for electronics to begin with, can short so bad that it fries the ecu? It doesn't make sense. I think it's much simpler than that. Maybe an ecu does fry because of the Iacv, but I think considering how rare it is there are some other conditions that have to be met, as well?
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Old 10-01-2020, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Thrillho
**** if I know, man. I just assumed basic and fragile electric components, also the most expensive ones, are at least protected by *something*. You mean to tell me that a very expensive part of the tb, that has coolant running through it for some weird reason despite liquid not being very good for electronics to begin with, can short so bad that it fries the ecu? It doesn't make sense. I think it's much simpler than that. Maybe an ecu does fry because of the Iacv, but I think considering how rare it is there are some other conditions that have to be met, as well?
It's not rare. It happens to every single de-k made. The first thing anyone on the forum does when buying a de-k is bypass the coolant, then unplug engine mounts lol

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-01-2020 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 10-02-2020, 12:38 AM
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And nobody here was stupid enough to turn on the ac while doing idle relearn? I'm talking about this thing:

https://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/maxim...e_learning.php

I basically did all of that but then turned on my ac while the connector was unplugged. The idle dropped right then and there, plugged the tps back in and it stuck. I've had the battery removed like 20 since then and it's still idling within spec. And the p0505 disappeared permanently.

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