Car Won't Start
Car Won't Start
Last night I went to go out when I tried to start the Maxima. All I could hear is the starter spinning. I checked the battery and it has the proper voltage. Needless to say I checked it 5 more times throughout the night and once this morning and all I get is the same sound. I would expect this to happen to an older car but not one that is 1 1/2 years old. Any recommendations?? If is doesn't start tonight I am going to call my Nissan dealer and tell them to come get the piece of crap... -Just a little upset.
If I wanted an undependable car I would have bought a used car or something like a Hyundia. -Venting a little
If I wanted an undependable car I would have bought a used car or something like a Hyundia. -Venting a little
Chill out; don't call Nissan and tell them to come and get your car. It's probably just the alternator. I used to have a 98 Izusu Amigo and after only owning it a year the same thing happened to me. I got it towed to the dealer and found out the alternator was dead. Hope this helps and remember breathe in, out, in, out.
Its most likely not your alternator, especially if the battery
is at the correct voltage.
When an alternator dies, it is usually a gradual decline.
The problem is either with the security system or a no spark/no fuel
problem.
Are you using the proper key with the chip in it?
is at the correct voltage.
When an alternator dies, it is usually a gradual decline.
The problem is either with the security system or a no spark/no fuel
problem.
Are you using the proper key with the chip in it?
I called my Nissan Dealer and they told me to press the gas to the floor before turning the key. Then continue holding down the gas and cranking the car until it starts. They said it might seem excesive but it should work. They said the car might be flooded??? This all came after I told them what car I owned. I've never heard of Flooding a fuel injected car!!??
Well I got home last night and tried what my Nissan Dealer told me to do. Sure enough after a second or two the car started right up. some blue looking smoke shot out the exhaust. Pure gasoline I guess. today the car started right up with no problems. This is one to keep in mind when your Maxima won't start...
Same Thing
Originally posted by bad2rock
I called my Nissan Dealer and they told me to press the gas to the floor before turning the key. Then continue holding down the gas and cranking the car until it starts. They said it might seem excesive but it should work. They said the car might be flooded??? This all came after I told them what car I owned. I've never heard of Flooding a fuel injected car!!??
I called my Nissan Dealer and they told me to press the gas to the floor before turning the key. Then continue holding down the gas and cranking the car until it starts. They said it might seem excesive but it should work. They said the car might be flooded??? This all came after I told them what car I owned. I've never heard of Flooding a fuel injected car!!??
Originally posted by 1BADMAX
Chill out; don't call Nissan and tell them to come and get your car. It's probably just the alternator. I used to have a 98 Izusu Amigo and after only owning it a year the same thing happened to me. I got it towed to the dealer and found out the alternator was dead. Hope this helps and remember breathe in, out, in, out.
Chill out; don't call Nissan and tell them to come and get your car. It's probably just the alternator. I used to have a 98 Izusu Amigo and after only owning it a year the same thing happened to me. I got it towed to the dealer and found out the alternator was dead. Hope this helps and remember breathe in, out, in, out.
im having the same problem
Originally posted by JOewAY
What the hells the alternator?
im having the same problem
What the hells the alternator?
im having the same problem
from what I know...
if you turn the car off and it hasnt fully warmed up, it will be running rich, VERY rich (think 14mpg rich). So fuel can be left in the cylinder, also since it was running so rich, the injectors may seep alittle more fuel as it sits. Just enough so that that car will be flooded when you come back to restart.
very frustrating.. luckily mine hasnt done it in a very long time, but it used to be several times a month.
very frustrating.. luckily mine hasnt done it in a very long time, but it used to be several times a month.
This is one of those "known" issues no one has a remedy for. From my archives:
Yes, it's rare for a healthy engine to flood.
When you switch off your engine, the fuel injection system is supposed to maintain it's pressure. This is called "residual pressure" and it helps the engine start easily at the next start-up. If your engine has lost the residual pressure, the engine will not start with the usual ease.
How could the engine lose residual pressure?
#1) The fuel pump check valve leaks. The fuel returns to the fuel tank. The engine IS NOT flooded.
#2) The engine has one or more fuel injectors which don't close properly. The fuel leaks into the intake manifold, and sits there until the next start-up. The engine IS flooded.
You may do some simple tests to determine if your engine is hard to start because it has lost residual pressure.
Test #1, for leaky check valve. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, turn the ignition switch to ON, wait ten or fifteen seconds, and then twist the key to START. This brief delay gives the fuel pump time to build up the normal fuel pressure. If your engine starts and runs readily after this brief delay, you may have a leaky check valve.
Test #2, for leaky injectors. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank. Wide Open Throttle while cranking is a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer) to clear a flooded engine. If your engine starts and runs readily with the "pedal to the metal" you may have leaky injectors.
Remedy for #1, leaky check valve. I suggest you just "learn to live with it" and make the ten-second delay part of your normal routine. The check valve is part of the fuel pump, situated inside the gas tank. This is an expensive repair.
Remedy for #2, leaky injectors. Buy three cans of name-brand fuel injector cleaner. Follow instructions on the can, and treat three successive tankfuls of gasoline. I've had good results with this kind of "snake oil". The three cans cost only US$5, so it is an inexpensive gamble. If the cleaner fails you may have to replace the leaky injectors and that is an expensive repair.
Yes, it's rare for a healthy engine to flood.
When you switch off your engine, the fuel injection system is supposed to maintain it's pressure. This is called "residual pressure" and it helps the engine start easily at the next start-up. If your engine has lost the residual pressure, the engine will not start with the usual ease.
How could the engine lose residual pressure?
#1) The fuel pump check valve leaks. The fuel returns to the fuel tank. The engine IS NOT flooded.
#2) The engine has one or more fuel injectors which don't close properly. The fuel leaks into the intake manifold, and sits there until the next start-up. The engine IS flooded.
You may do some simple tests to determine if your engine is hard to start because it has lost residual pressure.
Test #1, for leaky check valve. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, turn the ignition switch to ON, wait ten or fifteen seconds, and then twist the key to START. This brief delay gives the fuel pump time to build up the normal fuel pressure. If your engine starts and runs readily after this brief delay, you may have a leaky check valve.
Test #2, for leaky injectors. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank. Wide Open Throttle while cranking is a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer) to clear a flooded engine. If your engine starts and runs readily with the "pedal to the metal" you may have leaky injectors.
Remedy for #1, leaky check valve. I suggest you just "learn to live with it" and make the ten-second delay part of your normal routine. The check valve is part of the fuel pump, situated inside the gas tank. This is an expensive repair.
Remedy for #2, leaky injectors. Buy three cans of name-brand fuel injector cleaner. Follow instructions on the can, and treat three successive tankfuls of gasoline. I've had good results with this kind of "snake oil". The three cans cost only US$5, so it is an inexpensive gamble. If the cleaner fails you may have to replace the leaky injectors and that is an expensive repair.
Learn something....
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Test #2, for leaky injectors. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank. Wide Open Throttle while cranking is a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer) to clear a flooded engine. If your engine starts and runs readily with the "pedal to the metal" you may have leaky injectors.
Test #2, for leaky injectors. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank. Wide Open Throttle while cranking is a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer) to clear a flooded engine. If your engine starts and runs readily with the "pedal to the metal" you may have leaky injectors.
BTW Bill, IF this issues (leaky injectors) happens under warranty, should it be replaced by Nissan. (Not that they will but in the spirit and or letter of the warranty should it be replaced? Or is it a non-covered part?)
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Ok this makes no sense to me either, but I guess you learn something new everyday. Anyways congrats on getting your car started and hopefully it will never happen again.
