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I wanted to see what I could do with the stock air box and help the engine breath in cooler air during hot Florida summers.
first I replaced the throttle body tube with a 3" aluminum tube, 3"-3" coupling and 3"-3.25" coupling ( I have a 75MM T.B ).. I used a 3/4 O.D. aluminum tube that I JB welded to the 3" tube than drilled with a 1/2" bit for the valve cover breather.
what was really convenient was the stock T.B. tube fitting the inlet of the stock air box perfectly once I trimmed and filed down the plastic ribs..
the new snorkel uses a 90 degree 3" bend, Install Bay PSP3 3" x 12" ABS Port Tube Kit for Ported Subwoofer Enclosures, 2 3" couplings, 6 4" clamps, OEM throttle tube and some shielding tape.
here is the end result
Last edited by uptownsamcv; Mar 29, 2022 at 04:26 PM.
Why not add shielding tape to the aluminum tube you put between the TB and box?
Do you have a way to check intake air temp? If yes, have you noticed any difference?
I just picked up some more shielding tape today but haven't had a chance to get to it. I just changed my fuel pump, filter and all the seals for the assembly this morning. with the age of the car i think it was time to service the fuel system, the old pump was sounding a bit whiney.
as for the intake temps all i can really go by is what i see in Torque which goes off the MAF, haven't checked it yet I left my ELM327 in my girl's car so I'll see how the numbers look later on today..
Last edited by uptownsamcv; Mar 30, 2022 at 10:01 AM.
Nice work. I need to do something too, I don't have the factory snorkel, my intake air is coming through the filter box opening. The 7th gen motor misplaces the intake just enough to prevent the 5th gen snorkel to fit properly. So I have been living with a hot air intake in Tampa since the swap.
Funny thing is, I can absolutely tell my car loves cold intake air. In the 45° mornings on the way to work, my car easily feels 10-15hp/torque stronger than on the 85° drive home.
Nice work. I need to do something too, I don't have the factory snorkel, my intake air is coming through the filter box opening. The 7th gen motor misplaces the intake just enough to prevent the 5th gen snorkel to fit properly. So I have been living with a hot air intake in Tampa since the swap.
Funny thing is, I can absolutely tell my car loves cold intake air. In the 45° mornings on the way to work, my car easily feels 10-15hp/torque stronger than on the 85° drive home.
from what I see through the torque app temps were coming in at a steady 37C on a 81F day and of course in traffic it gets a bit higher but cools off pretty quick once the vehicle is back in motion. it's definately better than the stock snorkel. I ordered a 3.25"- 3" coupling to swap out the factory accordion tube attached to the air box.
I will also be installing the lower NWP spacers soon, had them for dam near 2 years but never installed them.
I'm also going to remove the insulation on the under side of the hood to see if it helps with heat dissipation, this engine needs as much cool air as it can get.
I'm also going to use nylon washers on the LIM to reduce heat transfer. I'm also going to use all studs on the head when I reinstall the LIM..
a 3.25" tube is on the way to go between the T.B. and MAF along with proper sized couplings..
this is the final change I'm making to it. I added a 3.25" aluminum tubing and coupling to match the throttle body than it tapers down to 3" with a 3.25"-3" coupling to connect to the MAF.
I already had 3 of the 5 NWP spacers installed so today I installed the 2 that go under the lower intake manifold. I Installed it with all studs and nuts as I did with the upper and I used nylon washers with metal washers over them. I also used a gaskets on each side of the spacers, no silicone. I only used silicone between the UIM and LIM to attach the spacer to the LIM. it was easy to clean the excess in the ports with my finger. with all studs I have been able to reuse the gasket quite a few times, studs with washers and nuts give more clamping force without stripping anything.
today the high was 89 degrees according to my dash and even with sitting in traffic I didn't notice the usual power loss. I'm guessing the lower IM spacer made a difference.
since I can't think of any more bolt-ons I think it's time to get her to a dyno...
Last edited by uptownsamcv; Apr 13, 2022 at 07:40 PM.
Really want to know what studs you used because that actually seems better than the standard setup.
when I ordered the kit from NWP I asked them for 5 longer studs instead of the 3 they usually include for the UIM.
the studs for the LIM ( the ones that thread into the heads ) are from Nissan, had to order 4. from the factory the LIM is held in place with 4 studs, 4 nuts and 4 bolts. they are long enough to use double gaskets between spacers along with nylon and metal washer per each stud.
Also didn't have to take off the fuel rail.
Last edited by uptownsamcv; Apr 14, 2022 at 03:08 PM.
when the time comes for me to put on the red aluminum valve covers I'm going to do some cleaning up under the hood. I'll get the intake manifold bead blasted and painted. was planning on getting a 7th gen engine with tax return but I have to pay this year. I'm going to start saving and use money I make on the side fixing cars to put towards a 7th gen engine...
nice work man!