I have a 2002 SE 6 speed. I recently replaced the clutch and am now having issues. The car will go into gears 1-6 but not reverse and the point of engagement is VERY close to the floor. I believe I've bled it - I replaced slave and master cylinders and also replaced the clutch line with what's been recommended on this forum (a single line running from the master to slave). Bleed methods used have been pump/release bleeder valve as well as reverse bleeding through the slave bleeder. The clutch fork appears to be moving only about 1/2 inch. I have spent hours bleeding and no improvement. I'm at my wits end! FYI the clutch disc is installed the correct way - I already tore it apart a 2nd time to check.

I also realized that what I took off the car was a DMF and unsprung clutch. The replacements I ordered from RockAuto were a DMF and clutch kit for DMF. The picture for the kit showed unsprung clutch disc BUT what arrived was sprung clutch. I installed assuming they sent the correct item.

1. can a DMF and sprung clutch be used together?
If not, would that explain the limited travel of the fork?
2. if so what could be causing clutch issue?
Inadequate bleeding? Can I have air stuck somewhere? How best to bleed?
Fork and pivot looked OK. TOB was replaced - a new one came with kit but could that be messed up somehow?

Help me pleased!

 

I don't think it could cause this problem, but did you grease the TOB and splines in the correct areas as the FSM says to? Did you compare the new/old clutches to make sure you received the correct part?

 

Yes, the TOB looked just like the old one I greased and believe the TOB was properly installed.

Update: I left the clutch pedal depressed with a stick over night and this morning I can get all gears including reverse though the engagement point is still very close to the floor. I'm guessing I didn't bleed everything through? What is the best way to do so?

 

The best way is to get someone to work the clutch while you work the bleed screw, is that what you've been doing?

 

yes that's what i've been doing. i also tried reverse bleeding. some has suggested vacuum, is that a better way?

 

Lol saw this post looking for something else on the interwebs.

A. Factory RWD cars use sprung clutches.

B. Gravity bleeding works excellent. Unbolt the slave cylinder, crack open the bleeder, let it dangle for a minute until you go through about a master reservoir amount of brake fluid (dont let the reservoir run dry).

We are also assuming you bench bled the master cylinder before you installed it.......

If not.... put the SS line into the master cyl reservoir and have someone pump the clutch (by hand) until you do not see any bubbles come out of the line. Then reinstall and bleed.

 

the first time I did my clutch and couldn't go into reverse afterwards I actually lost a piece. if you look in the red circled are below there is a piece that is in there. if it is missing you will have a hard time going into reverse. Nissan didn't have it so I had to find something that works...

 

these cars are a pain to bleed, I highly recommend the Nisformance one piece clutch line to eliminate all the unneeded factory metal tubing our cars have.

I remember on really hot days my clutch pedal would lose pressure back when I still had the factory lines.

 

You really caught my attention with that! When I swapped from one 6 speed to a different one, all of a sudden it was very difficult to get the car into reverse, and it felt like a linkage problem. I haven't found a solution and just deal with it and have to really shove it to get it into reverse. So what exactly did you lose, and what was your solution? I don't see anything super obvious in your picture.

 

the pic above is just one I found online real fast, I just went outside and took a close up of mine. it's been ten years since installed it so I don't have much info on it. it's some sort of brass bushing and it fit perfect. I don't remember if I ordered it online or got it locally. I'll check through my old posts and see if i started a thread on it.