Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
09-15-2003, 07:10 AM
#81
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 48
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Did you start the car without the MAF plug into the MAF filter? Or did you just move it aside and start it? Cause if you unplugged it while you were cleaning it and started the car without it plugged in, that will throw the SES light for that MAF sensor.
Dixit
Dixit
I did not disconnect any wires or unplug anything. I just detached the rubber crank case breather hose where it enters the plastic intake seperator box. I unclamped the rubber intake boots and set that assembly aside. I did manually open the TB butterfly to spray into the throat. I used a tooth brush to knock the black carbon deposits loose then wiped out as much as I could. Then I started the engine (it barely ran) and sprayed the TB cleaner into the TB but the engine stalled immediately. I re-started it and tried to increase the rpm (it did not want to rev but I got it up to about 2,000 rpm) (I did not spray anymore cleaner) then I shut it down and re assembled everything.
FYI, it's an 03 with 45K miles. It was running sluggish but runs great now except for the high idle rpm and the SES light. By the way, when starting the car all dash warning lights come on including the SES. Then as the engine starts all lights go out including the SES, but then the SES comes back on.
09-15-2003, 07:18 AM
#82
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 485
Originally Posted by Keviwe
I read Dixit's comments and I cleaned my throttle body. Now the engine idles at 1,000 rpm (instead of 750) and the Service Engine Soon light is on. I will disconnect my battery to reset the computer. Does anybody have any experience with this high idle and SES light? I double checked my cleaning job and very carefully wiped the edge of the butterfly valve just to make sure something wasn't restricting it from closing.
Even after that the idle still jumpy and SES light is still on.
EU
09-15-2003, 07:29 AM
#83
Originally Posted by Keviwe
Dixit,
It was running sluggish but runs great now except for the high idle rpm and the SES light. By the way, when starting the car all dash warning lights come on including the SES. Then as the engine starts all lights go out including the SES, but then the SES comes back on.
It was running sluggish but runs great now except for the high idle rpm and the SES light. By the way, when starting the car all dash warning lights come on including the SES. Then as the engine starts all lights go out including the SES, but then the SES comes back on.
Dixit
09-15-2003, 12:40 PM
#84
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 485
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Well at this point Id say take it to an Autozone and get the code pulled. Lets see which one comes up. Technically nothing from the TB cleaning should've affected anything. Code might just need to be cleared to let it idle back at normal rpms. When you get it pulled, write the code down, and get the person to clear it as well.
Dixit
Dixit
Autozone can reset the code? I have the code pulled last time and they say's it was my idle control valve. But the dealer says everything is fine.
09-15-2003, 04:07 PM
#86
The guy at Autozone gave me some crap that he "isn't supposed to reset the code" or something, but I convinced him to do it anyway (it threw the code when I ran the motor w/o the MAP and IAT sensors connected, since I didn't wanna install the whole ramscoop while I was doing a coolant flush)
09-16-2003, 07:05 AM
#87
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 48
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Well at this point Id say take it to an Autozone and get the code pulled. Lets see which one comes up. Technically nothing from the TB cleaning should've affected anything. Code might just need to be cleared to let it idle back at normal rpms. When you get it pulled, write the code down, and get the person to clear it as well.
Dixit
Dixit
Autozone read the trouble code. P1102 - "MAF sensor in range but lower than expected". The AZone guy said I had a vacuum leak but I can;t imagine where this leak could be. I double checked both rubber intake boots and the PCV rubber hose. All hoses are straight and clamps are tight. I had them clear the code and now the SES light has stayed off but idle rpm is still high at 900 with engine warm, in gear with brakes on.
I noticed that when driving and approaching a stop, foot off the gas, coasting, the rpm drops as the car slows but at 1000 rpm it jumps back up to 1500 and then I have to brake to stop.
At cold engine start-up, fast idle rpm is high than before and after a couple of minutes of warm up the rpm is still at 1500
Could the TB cleaner have caused the TB butterfly shaft to bind by flushing all lubrication from the butterfly shaft? The CRC brand TB cleaner said that it had lubricants in it so this is probable a long shot.
Do you have any ideas?
09-16-2003, 08:32 AM
#88
Keviwe: The cleaner couldnt have done any hard to the butterfly shaft. The only thing I can think is maybe the TPS sensor got adjusts by mistake and its actually idling a bit too high because of that.
Since you dont have an OBDII laptop utility, the only thing I can suggest is taking it to the dealer to see what they say. Dont worry about them saying its your fault because nothing you did was wrong.
Dixit
Since you dont have an OBDII laptop utility, the only thing I can suggest is taking it to the dealer to see what they say. Dont worry about them saying its your fault because nothing you did was wrong.
Dixit
09-16-2003, 09:57 AM
#89
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 48
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Keviwe: The cleaner couldnt have done any hard to the butterfly shaft. The only thing I can think is maybe the TPS sensor got adjusts by mistake and its actually idling a bit too high because of that.
Since you dont have an OBDII laptop utility, the only thing I can suggest is taking it to the dealer to see what they say. Dont worry about them saying its your fault because nothing you did was wrong.
Dixit
Since you dont have an OBDII laptop utility, the only thing I can suggest is taking it to the dealer to see what they say. Dont worry about them saying its your fault because nothing you did was wrong.
Dixit
Is there anything I can adjust myself. I really don't have the time to be dropping the Max at the dealership for the day.
09-17-2003, 05:25 PM
#91
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 48
Cleaned TB and threw SES code(s)
Originally Posted by Keviwe
Dixit,
Autozone read the trouble code. P1102 - "MAF sensor in range but lower than expected". The AZone guy said I had a vacuum leak but I can;t imagine where this leak could be. I double checked both rubber intake boots and the PCV rubber hose. All hoses are straight and clamps are tight. I had them clear the code and now the SES light has stayed off but idle rpm is still high at 900 with engine warm, in gear with brakes on.
I noticed that when driving and approaching a stop, foot off the gas, coasting, the rpm drops as the car slows but at 1000 rpm it jumps back up to 1500 and then I have to brake to stop.
At cold engine start-up, fast idle rpm is high than before and after a couple of minutes of warm up the rpm is still at 1500
Could the TB cleaner have caused the TB butterfly shaft to bind by flushing all lubrication from the butterfly shaft? The CRC brand TB cleaner said that it had lubricants in it so this is probable a long shot.
Do you have any ideas?
Autozone read the trouble code. P1102 - "MAF sensor in range but lower than expected". The AZone guy said I had a vacuum leak but I can;t imagine where this leak could be. I double checked both rubber intake boots and the PCV rubber hose. All hoses are straight and clamps are tight. I had them clear the code and now the SES light has stayed off but idle rpm is still high at 900 with engine warm, in gear with brakes on.
I noticed that when driving and approaching a stop, foot off the gas, coasting, the rpm drops as the car slows but at 1000 rpm it jumps back up to 1500 and then I have to brake to stop.
At cold engine start-up, fast idle rpm is high than before and after a couple of minutes of warm up the rpm is still at 1500
Could the TB cleaner have caused the TB butterfly shaft to bind by flushing all lubrication from the butterfly shaft? The CRC brand TB cleaner said that it had lubricants in it so this is probable a long shot.
Do you have any ideas?
Autozone cleared my P1102 code and SES stayed off for 1 day (Idle RPM still High). SES just came on again and this time code is P0507 "auto control high idle". I guess I'll have to go to the dealer. Will this repair fall under the 75K drive train warranty? I have 45K on my 03.
Thanks, Keviwe
09-19-2003, 09:03 PM
#92
Cleaned my throttle body by hand with a cloth soaked in GUNK Air Intake/Throttle Body cleaner, i.e. cleaned the throttle plate and the bore... had a lot of black crap all over the cloth afterwards.
Also removed the MAF sensor from the air cleaner and gently sprayed the GUNK solvent all over the plastic housing, and very gently at the MAF wire itself (the 2000 VQ30DE-K's MAF sensor looks more like a thin wire, although it's thicker than I thought it would be... but it didn't look like a piece of "film"). I want to do another OBD-II sensor reading tomorrow, but after warming up the engine the MAF sensor showed around 3.50 g/s at warm idle with ambient temperature around 65F (humid). This is substantially higher than previous readings of 2.50-ish at warm idle around 60F in dry air, but I won't dwell on that reading until I've driven like this for a while. It does idle better--previously I had a condition where if I revved it up in neutral (or clutch pedal depressed), and snapped the throttle shut, RPMs would drop and stumble around 400RPM, then recover to 600-700. Now they just drop straight to 600-700, no stumbling.
Engine seems to rev and accelerate a little smoother... but we'll see after 1 week of this if the ECU adjusts.
Also removed the MAF sensor from the air cleaner and gently sprayed the GUNK solvent all over the plastic housing, and very gently at the MAF wire itself (the 2000 VQ30DE-K's MAF sensor looks more like a thin wire, although it's thicker than I thought it would be... but it didn't look like a piece of "film"). I want to do another OBD-II sensor reading tomorrow, but after warming up the engine the MAF sensor showed around 3.50 g/s at warm idle with ambient temperature around 65F (humid). This is substantially higher than previous readings of 2.50-ish at warm idle around 60F in dry air, but I won't dwell on that reading until I've driven like this for a while. It does idle better--previously I had a condition where if I revved it up in neutral (or clutch pedal depressed), and snapped the throttle shut, RPMs would drop and stumble around 400RPM, then recover to 600-700. Now they just drop straight to 600-700, no stumbling.
Engine seems to rev and accelerate a little smoother... but we'll see after 1 week of this if the ECU adjusts.
09-24-2003, 02:03 PM
#93
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 48
cleaned throttle body
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
I have about 20k miles on my car, and I went to pepboys and bought the throttle body cleaner and did what the bottle said of spraying it inside and cleaned it a towel. And then starting the car and spraying it while the car is running and empty the whole can.
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
09-24-2003, 03:08 PM
#94
I think it's *possible* if you spray the cleaning solvent into the Throttle Position Sensor that you can damage it... though I doubt the TPS costs $1127.00, and I'd hope the TPS is replacable without switching out the whole throttle body.
Damaging the TPS should cause nasty idle/SES codes, though. If I'm not mistaken, the TPS is a variable resistor (potentiometer), which typically uses a metal blade that sweeps along a trail of carbon, where the carbon provides the resistance (and the more carbon between the two contacts, the higher the resistance), thus if TB cleaning solvent got inside there and destroyed the carbon trail, it wouldn't work correctly. Someone please correct me if I'm talking bull****
Damaging the TPS should cause nasty idle/SES codes, though. If I'm not mistaken, the TPS is a variable resistor (potentiometer), which typically uses a metal blade that sweeps along a trail of carbon, where the carbon provides the resistance (and the more carbon between the two contacts, the higher the resistance), thus if TB cleaning solvent got inside there and destroyed the carbon trail, it wouldn't work correctly. Someone please correct me if I'm talking bull****
09-25-2003, 05:58 AM
#95
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 48
Dammaged TPS when cleaning TB
Originally Posted by spirilis
I think it's *possible* if you spray the cleaning solvent into the Throttle Position Sensor that you can damage it... though I doubt the TPS costs $1127.00, and I'd hope the TPS is replacable without switching out the whole throttle body.
Damaging the TPS should cause nasty idle/SES codes, though. If I'm not mistaken, the TPS is a variable resistor (potentiometer), which typically uses a metal blade that sweeps along a trail of carbon, where the carbon provides the resistance (and the more carbon between the two contacts, the higher the resistance), thus if TB cleaning solvent got inside there and destroyed the carbon trail, it wouldn't work correctly. Someone please correct me if I'm talking bull****
Damaging the TPS should cause nasty idle/SES codes, though. If I'm not mistaken, the TPS is a variable resistor (potentiometer), which typically uses a metal blade that sweeps along a trail of carbon, where the carbon provides the resistance (and the more carbon between the two contacts, the higher the resistance), thus if TB cleaning solvent got inside there and destroyed the carbon trail, it wouldn't work correctly. Someone please correct me if I'm talking bull****
09-25-2003, 06:18 AM
#96
I consider the process reliable enough since it is being performed by Nissan. What is the difference in a way Dixit did it and the way a properly trained Nissan tech would have done it? Any techs in here?
09-25-2003, 07:10 AM
#98
Ick, TPS riveted to the TB... 
Nasty!
I did it the safe route--drenched a lint-free cloth (walmart "glass cleaning & finishing towels") in throttle body cleaner and wiped it...
Nasty!I did it the safe route--drenched a lint-free cloth (walmart "glass cleaning & finishing towels") in throttle body cleaner and wiped it...
10-05-2003, 07:21 AM
#99
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,594
Originally Posted by 2kmaxdon
be careful never to use plain carberator cleaner u will totally **** up the engine when my mechanic comes up with the final stat's on the problems it caused
10-05-2003, 07:50 AM
#100
Originally Posted by acMAX
hey i know this is OT but didn't you post a photo shopped pic a while back with dual tip dual exhausts on a 2k1 max?
Hey acMax, I believe Dixit was the first to put on the dual PT 4" but I think I was the first to fake a real dual PT 4" I have the pics, so give me your e-mail and maybe you can post it.
Cheers
AA
10-07-2003, 05:58 PM
#101
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 306
Originally Posted by doublea
Hey acMax, I believe Dixit was the first to put on the dual PT 4" but I think I was the first to fake a real dual PT 4" I have the pics, so give me your e-mail and maybe you can post it.
Cheers
AA
Cheers
AA
--Ray
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